therealboss

The bolt came out of my oil pump drive, like you I stopped it as soon as I seen the oil light come on. Might be worth checking the shells, I had to replace them all but the crank was fine.

I agree, or make sure you have it well insured

OK, thanks.

When I done this little job, I took some photos, but just my luck wiped them of the card soon after. Has anyone got some photos of a Disco with the EGR Valve in place that I can upload to this howto. I can take a pic of the removed EGR valve but this would not be the same as some pics with the engine cover taken off.

I don't have a Nanocom ( going to ask santa for one), but as I understand it, the ECU thinks everything is the way it was and I should not get any error codes. As to your question regarding the valve being stuck, I don't know but maybe someone else can help. The idea of this thread was just to help anyone who is thinking of removing the valve and to show them that it is a very easy job. If your valve is stuck or in any other way not working I can't comment as I don't know the answers. But from what I read it is better to remove the valve and by doing it the way I have, removes any restriction that there might have been.

Today the EGR Blanking kit I ordered off Ebay arrived so I went about fitting it, all in all it took me about 20mins to fit. I thought that someone might be thinking of doing this little mod, so I have written a short Howto. If I have missed anything, please feel free to add to this post. Tools needed:- Flat Blade Screwdriver for hose clip. 10mm socket (1/4" drive is best) 5mm Allen Key The work involved.. I think its best to do this job with the engine cold but I started the engine for a few mins thinking that it would help undoing the bolts. (I've see reports of bolts being hard to remove from the exhaust manifold). Remove engine cover and radiator cover, this will allow easy access to Inlet and exhaust manifolds and the EGR valve/pipe & connectors. Now you can see the EGR Valve on the left hand side bolted on the end of the inlet manifold with a stainless steel pipe running from the EGr valve around the front of the engine and into the exhaust manifold. Undo the hose clip connecting the rubber hose to the EGR Valve. Undo the 4 bolts (8mm Socket) securing the EGR valve. Undo the 2 bolts holding the stainless steel pipe to the exhaust manifold. Undo the bolt securing the stainless steel pipe to the engine (10mm Socket). You should now be able to to lift out the EGR Valve and its stainless steel pipe. Thats it......... Opps I almost forgot, now we need to fit the blanking off kit. Before I fitted the kit, I cleaned around the inside of the inlet manifold and the rubber pipe that connects to it. I also checked the condition of the rubber pipe and the condition of all the bolts. I was lucky that all the bolts came out with ease and I used my super duper 5mm Allen "T Bar" to undo the Allen Bolts. (NOTE, you might run into problems if you only have a cheap set of Allen Keys, I would suggest that you buy a good quality 5mm Allen Key socket to do this job. If you ring out the inside of the Allen Bolts, this 20min job could turn out to take 20 hours). The kit I bought of Ebay, came with everything that I needed apart from the tools. Below is the packing list that came with the kit. 1 x EGR Valve removal cone & gasket (5mm Stainless Steel Precision Laser Cut and TIG welded) 1 x Blanking plate & gasket (5mm Stainless Steel Precision Laser Cut) 2 x EGR solenoid vacuum Blanking Plugs. 1 x Complete with step by step, colour photo fitting instructions. Fitting the kit is as follows:- Bolt on the EGR Valve removal cone & gasket to the inlet manifold (4 bolts) 8mm Socket. Bolt on the Blanking plate & gasket to the ehaust manifold (2 bolts) 5mm Allen Key. Replace the bolt that was holding the Stainless steel pipe to the engine (10mm Socket). Now to remove the vacuum pipe and blank it off. The plastic pipe that attached to the EGR valve on my Discovery was blue. This ran from the valve to the solinoide/modulator that is located just behind the radiator expansion tank (the tank full of pink fluid). On the instructions that came with the kit it said that some engines have 2 vacuum pipes that run from the valve to the solinoide/modulator, but mine only had 1 pipe. Trace the pipe that attached to the old valve back to the solinoide/modulator and removed it. In it's place fit the blanking plug that comes with the kit to the solinoide/modulator to blank it off. Replace the engine cover and radiator cover. Jobs done.. Good luck.

From looking them up on Google I see 3 names:- Reynolds Boughton, Viking Trailers & Universal Engineering Hope this helps..

If its the UJ's you should see that if you get under the truck and inspect them, if it is the UJ's do them sooner rather than later or you will pay for it. When the UJ falls apart at speed it will damage the underside of the truck and for the sake of 10 pounds per joint it just not worth it. (plus you will need a change of underpants if it fails under speed. To replace the UJ's should take you an hour or so per prop, depending on what tools you have.

Next time your in Ireland, I'll have a pint waiting for you. Thanks again..

I bought 400 pounds worth of gear off them a few weeks ago and the goods arrived the next day and I live in Ireland. I didn't buy an exhaust because the pipe I wanted they did not have in stock and I need the other parts ASAP. Very nice to deal with online and over the phone, I think that things like exhausts will be the same type of quality from both Paddocks or Island4x4. I have bought from both and have no problems with either, paddocks wanted 25 pounds more for the turbo I wanted so I got it from Island4x4....

You sure need to check it out, I have a Disco2 and can tell you its very stable on and off the road. If it feels unstable then I would say something is wrong, if you don't know what to look for I would suggest you get someone who understands 4x4's to take a look. With all 4x4's you have a higher centre of gravity and that means the car has a more of a rolling effect on corners. You would be amased at the amount of people that expect a Landrover ( or any other big 4x4) to act just like a car on the road. Just remember you are not driving a car, really its a truck, so everything you do requires a little more time- I tend to double the gap between me and the car in frount (thats about 2 car lengths per 10 mph). I carry a lot of weight and 3+ tons of Landrover take a lot of stopping. I hope you find out the problem and glad to hear that your wife is fine, am sure you will love the Landrover once you find what this problem is, sorry I can't be any more help...

Hi Its not just to display things like temp, rpm and the likes, I thought it would be nice to see what could be done on the electronics like the traction control. I would like to have a look around the settings and maybe play about with them. I know this sounds mad, but I bet that was the first thing that was said to the first guy that wanted to look inside a ECU to see what could be done to improve engine performance..

I have replaced my MAS and the new one has 2 wires across it, it didn't sort out my problem of the engine hunting that turned out to be a pipe that had come off. But now with the pipe fixed and the new MAS its going better than ever. Regarding the computer, I work with computers all the time, I'm a network engineer. I was thinking of installing a computer in the Disco with a touch screen so I can use it when I'm out at work (I spend most of my time up on top of hills or mountains). I thought if I fitted a PC into the Disco, I might get something so it can interface with the ECU, BCU and the ?CU that controls the auto box. If I can interface with them all, thought I might have a poke about with the way HDC, TC and the like work and see if I could improve it for my style of driving. Thought it would also be nice to have a menu on the touch screen to select different modes for the TC and fuel economy. I have all the parts to install a second battery to run my in-car PC and all my wireless gear it's just getting time to install it all. If anyone has gone down the road of installing a full PC in a landrover and interfaced it with the electronics of the car I would love to hear from you.

You hit the nail on the head!!!! The pipe that comes from the actuator solenoid to the steel pipe from the intercooler had snapped off, just pushed it back on and secured it and BOIGO!!!! Thanks again for all the suggestions, thats what I like about Landrovers, everyone that has one is willing to offer advice and help. That's another problem solved with the help of the Internet, you never know, this Internet thing might catch on.. Thanks again....

I have checked all pipes, MAS and fuses, I will see if I can get a meter attached to record the boost tomorrow. Will keep you updated, I'm still open to any other suggestions... Thanks

Hi After the engine rebuild and turbo replacement I have a small problem, the engine starts and runs well apart from under heavy load. When the engine is under heavy load, like putting my foot down to overtake, I can feel it hunting. I think it might be the waste gate opening and closing all the time, if I lift my right foot a little, all is well but it then take ages to get up to an overtaking speed. My Disco is a 2001 TD5 with Auto Box, if I put my foot down, it will kick down but the hunting is very bad and I have to lift off again and then it changes up again. I thought it might be the MAS so I checked it and one of the elements was burnt out so I bought a new sensor. The sensor arrived today and i fitted it but still have the same problem. History so far... About a month ago my Disco was running very well without any problems until the bolt on the oil pump packed in. I was lucky that it happened at very low speed and after striping the engine I got away with only having to replace all the shells, and the turbo. So its had a new Turbo (the correct one), Big End Shells, Main Bearings and it the same time we replaced the Air Filter, both Oil Filters and the fuel filter. Its now had a new MAS (old one was knackered oil on the sensor wire) and a new injector harness (76,000 miles thought it was time to replace it). When the MAS packs in, do I need to get the error codes reset before the engine will run right? or do I have something else wrong? I'm open to any advice.. Thanks

I would fit a new one, or on the other hand ...... you could hold it on with a vice grip

Is there a software package I can download for my PC and connect it to a dongle that will connect to the plug in my disco, I work with computers all day its my job. I have never bought anything that will allow me to see whats doing in my car but I'm always looking for something that will challenge me. I'm not looking for something that will allow me to remap my ECU but something that would allow me to see any error codes..

Took my air flow sensor out this morning for a look, like you do when you think its not running 100% I noticed one of the sensor elements is missing!!! Can anyone give me a clue, should there be 1 wire on 1 element and none on the other or should they both have a wire?

Well she is back on the road, running a sweet as a nut, only problem is I've lost all confidence in her and I now find I'm driving her with one eye on the dash (looking for the oil light to come on any min) and one ear listening to the engine to see if she make any strange noise. So far so good, oil pressure is back to what it should be and I have drove about 25 miles with her purring away as she should. Lets hope this will be it now for the next 100,000 miles

OK, thanks for the info I'll have to visit the Main Stealer. Thanks

Can anyone tell me if there is a sequence for re-programming a twin button remote for a 2001 TD5 discovery, or is it a job for the main stealer?

Fingers crossed yet again, one thing for sure, I will know in the morning. Thanks

When we started it, it ran a treat, no smoke nothing strange at all just the oil filter. If the combustion pressure is getting into the oil system would it not have ran rough, and given a higher oil pressure reading on tick over?

Any advice on the above is very welcome.