diggervan

Hi I have a oil leak in between the camshaft carrier and cylinder head so the question is can I fix this with out removing the cam and will the head stay in place and is there a gasket there or is it just sealant Also whilst it's in bits I'm going to check bolt on oil pump so can that be done by just taking sump off or timing cover have to come off as well all this is on a td5/15 p engine any help or tips would be great Bob

So you have change water pump / rad/ head skimed/ thermostat and it still overheats now you say compression test shows nothing but if you had no compression it would not run to overheat so don't understand that one so did the garage test the head for cracks have you checked top and bottom hose and heater hose for soft spots Whitch can corse them to suck them selves in when system pressurises and does the heater get hot and you must make shore to bleed the system but while it's in bits try and flush heater matrix / engine/ oil cooler / fuel cooler and anything else connected to the cooling system with a hose pipe and see what that does Good luck bob

Sounds like rad to me so instead of letting the garage replace it why don't you get yours record and fit your self it would be cheaper and they aren't that hard to fit

Thanks andy/stripy I will price a semiems and alive maf tomorrow and see what one of them do Bob

Hi does anybody know why my 110 td5 pulls and go's better with the maf disconnected when I'm pulling a trialler it struggled even on the flats so disconnected it and it pulled like train so got a new one a britpart mhk100620 now it's down on power again not as bad as the original but not as it should be could there be something else wrong I have checked intake hoses gate on turbo air filter and such things like that somebody did mention one of a Volvo but have not seen any more about it any help/ advice would be great. BOB

Yes do the p gasket if you don't it will fail to days after you have sorted everything else out

Hi it sounds like its a bearing with that ticking scratching sound it could be water pump or alternator just take belt off and cheque everything Bob

If you are getting more fuel out of lift pump by hand priming than you do by cranking engine on the key then it's either arm on lift pump bent or to short or cam lobe badly worn Bob

When you say no fuel coming through pump I take it you mean injecter pump if so you still have air in system some where did you change all 4 o rings on the filter if you did you wil have just keep bleeding system till it starts sometimes they bleed strait away sometimes takes ages all so make shore the engine works lift pump properly you can get more lift manually due ether lift arm /cam lobe wear

I have a brand new tvc 100010 and that measures 76mm cap to cap 27mm cap diameter and this for a 110 utility. Bob

Had same problem on a transit so I put an earth from stater body back to neg on battery been fine ever since hope this helps. Bob

just got a 52 plate ex utilaty sw/van 110 td5 and it has whine from g box or t box is this normal also am useing ep 80/90 in both boxs is that wise or should i use mtf 94 she has done 177000 miles apart from a few clunks and bangs on rough ground all is good any help or advise appresheated