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rusty_wingnut

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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut

  1. All, I have an odd issue, that I am not sure is even an issue, it all started a few weeks back chugging up the hill out of Farnham towards Guildford, accelerating up to 60mmph, I noticed the temp gauge climbing, so I backed off, and although it was running a little hotter than usual it wasn't boiling. I had removed the engine fan the night before as I was replacing a leaky power steering pump, and hadn't refitted it - what with it being spring and hardly warm!

     

    I got back via the A3/M25 and although running hot it hadn't boiled (maintaining a steady 55mph) Now since being back I cannot seem to maintain a full air free thermostat housing despite bleeding twice and filling through the bleed plugs. This may/may not be an issue but I am sure my old 300tdis would bleed up and remain full wether hot or cold. With the engine running and it bleeds no issue, tighten it back down, drive, let it cool and then open the plug, coolant has only reached as high as the bleed valve on the thermostat.

     

    Since being back I've done a few checks-

    • Thermostat opened although not fully, confirmed in the same pan with two others - the one that opened the most was refitted. (assumed faulty thermostat)
    • Water pump confirmed as fins turning and no leaks.
    • No visible leaks at heater box.
    • Swapped seal on thermostat bleed plug, incase air being drawn in.
    • Changed Y piece, old one checked and all clear
    • Swapped for known good expansion cap
    • Checked expansion hose fitting on thermostat housing is clear
    • There are no bubbles in the header tank when hot/cold/revved for the head gasket doom mongers :)
    • No leaks around P gasket

    Am I worrying about nothing? I will do a long journey later in the week on the motorway.

  2. I was thinking that it will fit on the mounts, fit the gearbox, fuel lines are simple. Then you're left with exhuast pipe and mounting the 200 power steering pump.

     

    It's leftfield, but I dare say you may find someone has a running engine you could beg/borrow while you repair what you have.

  3. In the olden days younger me would help anyone in trouble with bad weather (snow) and made a nice pile of beer money out of it once or twice. However these days the avent of the removable towing eye means I frankly cannot be bothered with the hassle. The thought of grovelling around someones dirty car trying to carefully prise open the plastic cap to fit the towing eye is something I'd rather not do.

     

    I will of course make exception for senior citizens, or someone driving something interesting (vintage).

  4. Thanks for the feedback so far, I am not looking for all out mud plugging, with axles buried deep in mud, more gentle off the beaten track stuff. 

    I have read a lot of routes are now illegal in Belgium, although it seems more potential in Wallonia than elsewhere?

  5. I am loosely planning a quiet laning trip, possibly with the Series 1. I thought it might be pleasant to sample what’s across the channel, but am struggling to find any definitive routes. 

    I'd be happy to follow any battlefield routes, or suggestions from those who may have done routes in either Northern France or Belgium, does anyone have experience  of off roading across the channel?

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  6. 12 hours ago, simonpelly said:

    Interested to see how you made that work. In particular if a re-bracket exercise of some chopping to wheel arches. Any pics would be awesome. Thanks.

    It's a bit of a job in all honesty... It started when I realised the crossmember and upstand had all gone a bit powdery, and took the plunge after finding a complete set of Puma seats for just £300.

    It's a well documented thing on Defender2, but basically there's two ways of doing it, both involve replacing the second row seat crossmember. While I was in there, I did both C pillars, and replaced the floorupstand. The tricky part was fitting the seat latches onto the A-frame crossmember, and this I will re-visit when I do the chassis. You can either choose to modify the front of the tub, and change the angle of those panels to match the TDCI tub using YRM panels, or you can simply notch the existing tub panels to clear the seats. I replaced both panels as I had both C pillars out.

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