rusty_wingnut
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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut
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check every connector in the MS loom, make sure each wire and it's associated clip are pushed home properly in the housing. I had an injector not firing properly because of it.
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Well Nitromors is a non starter, wouldn't even touch it! That was also after roughing the surface up in between coats.
The wall paper steamer didnt do much either.
to be continued......
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Hi all, I've recently acquired a Land Rover that's been painted over it's original factory colour with some MOD paint, and am looking for ideas on how to remove it? I would like to retain the original factory colour underneath, so things like blasting are out of the question. I've come up with the following ideas;
1) Nitromors or similar, and pressure wash off
2) Wall paper steamer over the body and scrape it off - my local car sprayer reckoned this would work?!
3) Find an abrasive byway
Now obviously 3 is out of the question, I'm yet to try number 2, but 1 doesn't seem to be doing much. Does anyone have any ideas?
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14 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
The V8 will be more powerful, more fun, and more economical... what's not to like?
Chopping bulkheads, heat, the fact the engine needs a complete rebuild.
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Lurking with interest here, I've got a 2.5petrol and a 3.5V8 potentially lined up for my Series 1. Heart says V8, head says 2.5
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well I've done a few jobs with this machine now, what with lockdown and all that. Anyway two things I've noticed:
1) it needs a cup holder
2) it needs a phone holder/charging point.
I can see some mods coming!
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SO here are some photos showing how to replace any broken/worn gears inside your throttle body. The kit came from ebay for around £25. I would of preferred a mechanical method of fixing the gear to the existing, but so far the super glue seems to be doing a good job. The intermediate gear was a tight fit on the shaft, and I found the hole to not quite be the 5mm required. After a gentle drilling it was still not as loose as the old, but with time hopefully it will loosen up.
I've not got to the bottom of the oil inside the body, but I did have a split hose some time ago so wonder if oil mist has built up inside. Either way, after clearing a few fault codes, and taking a long drive, I've reduced the number of faults on the ECU. I now need to look at my glowplugs - land rovers eh?!
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I've just been through something similar to this and hence felt it useful to include my findings. Initially when I opened the body i found it full of oil! I assume there is a shaft seal which is passing, or is this the build up of vapour over time? The engine is upto 94k now on my FL2. I cleaned the residual oil, noted some wear to my gears and as a result will be replacing the gears with the aluminium replacement kit. I'll photo the process when I undertake the task.
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On 6/2/2020 at 4:49 PM, Stellaghost said:
One of the smaller toys at work
you wouldn't want that to run over your foot!
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1 hour ago, mickeyw said:
Hey foul play!
No announcements like that without pictures
Go on then!
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After a lot of mucking about I found a micro digger locally, an old Eurodig that had a refurb recently. Starts first crank, new rad and tracks. Happy enough
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Good ol Drew! I know where that FC is going as well
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Will it make a decent CNC machine? Must be a few unfinished CNC kits that Simon made floating about?
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Picked up the last one left in Leatherhead on Friday night. Not used it yet though!
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Finish the 107" SW
Finish the 107" SW
Finish the 107" SW
Finish the 107" SW
Finish the 107" SW
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has it got the annoying cork T seals around the rear main cap? You will need some aluminium sliders to aid fitting them if so.
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lots to think about there, and some good offers in amongst it! So far every machine I've chased has been well over the 5k mark, even a couple with hydraulic issues. Just doesn't seem right to be forking out that kind of money for something that doesn't work. Space could be an issue on a 3Te + machine, I'm only dealing with half an acre all told, but it is open. I think the ability to trailer the machine/drive the tractor up the road is key, what with other family members lining up work!
In terms of the Fergie option, I've seen a few demountables with separate hydraulic drives off the PTO, and don't think I'd trust the tractors hydraulics to run a large set of rams, despite the pump being in good order.
@Ed Poore I'll drop you a PM regarding those rear arms your mate has.
I've also come up with a couple of leads on mini diggers that may be a bit cheaper than those I've seen so following those up as well.
Cheers
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Not strictly Land Rover or 4x4 related, so OT!
Like many I've got myself an old Fergie, petrol job which I use for mowing, and general carting about duties. I have a few jobs coming up where I will need to do a bit of digging, namely foundations for a garage extension, two soak aways and a general remodel of my driveway. I've looked into renting or purchasing a mini digger, but can't justify the costs involved, the out lay to purchase is to high, and if I rented I am sure I would end up covering the cost of a second hand machine with the amount of work and how sporadic my free time can be.
This has lead me to look at one of these back-actors on the three point linkage of the Fergie, I am also thinking I could attach a flail for my hedges etc. https://www.tractorfactory.co.uk/ProductDetail/TF0229/
This then got me thinking if I could purchase a second hand mini digger back ram and arm arrangement, and then fabricate a bracket to mount it to the tractor, and utilise the tractors hydraulics to power the rams rather than a PTO driven pump arrangement as per the link above.
Has anyone looked into this before? Any suggestions?
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There is a known fault with these fobs whereby the circuit board cracks, there's a guy on FREEL2 forum who repairs the keys. I am about to send my final original key off to him with this exact problem.
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Freelander 2 pollen filter - good
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The purple one has a Mazda SL35TI and Auto
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I've got an 1 3/4" SU on my Series 1, along with a host of other trick bits. You need to make up an intake adaptor if using original manifolds (carb dependant).
I might be able to swap you that carb for one like on mine?
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Parkside saw, Festool rail.
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There are a lot of folk South of London, myself included. I can highly recommend a garage on the South coast if you fancy a trip to the seaside?
Freelander 2 2010 2.2l fuel injector problem
in Freelander Forum
Posted
The solid HP pipes require nipping rather tightly, I found it was worth loosening them and then re-seating before tightening fully.