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rusty_wingnut

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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut

  1. No No No!

    Ten degrees Before Top Dead Centre is before six degrees and therefore more advanced, so we normally have to advance the timing a bit. Sometimes it is as retarded as 4 degrees btdc with a new belt.

    Of course, the manual doesn't say what the setting should actually be (in words that can be unserstood, anyway), but all the guys who have the tools to check it reckon on 10 degrees. It certainly feels right anyway.

    so to clarify i have to advance up some where between 2-4degrees?

    I have tried this previously and it does run better, but never found the sweet spot :unsure:

    the clanking is coming from underneath almost, all the exhaust mounts and joints were checked and the downpipe replaced. Loose baffle?

  2. numpty moment

    I've been very meticulous setting the engine up so that when the both pegs are inserted the timing belt is taught between crank, cam, injector pump. So maybe this is my problem suggested by Jim (thanks for your input)

    I will attempt to retard the pump by two degrees tonight. The fuel consumption is awful :(

  3. What an absolute nightmare. I now have a wading plug drilled and fitted with a steel insert to fit the flywheel, a 9.5m drill in the injector pump and the clanking is still there.

    It's weird after a good re-time (not my 3rd or 4th now :( ) the vehicle runs lovely no clanking and feels like a 300tdi. Yet after a high speed jaunt it goes back to a clanking bag of spanners. When it is clanking it struggles to clear 55mph :(

    It has to be new injector pump time? I've fitted new injectors, done the cambelt correctly, checked it about 4 times along with tension etc.

    The reason i suggest injector pump is that, when doing the belt i found the pump quite difficult to turn, not similar to my TD engined Series 1s pump which is free and easy to turn. Could this resistance be throwing the timing about?

    Any help greatly appreciated before this starts costing lots :(

  4. Thanks Rusty, was the timing out at all and has your "knock" gone away?

    Cheers

    G :)

    on the overrun but when pulling hard its loud so i guess the timing must still be wrong. One thing does bother me a bit, the front edge of the belt is wearing again, but this time on the tensioner :blink:

    how easy is it to advance the pump ( i guess it needs advancing if the on the overrun the knocking disappears- some twisted loic there) I don't get it, when the drill is in the pump hole and the crank is spot on 12 o clock as per the flywheel hole and the cam notches line up how the hell can the timing be wrong :(

    Can anyone reccomend a garage in surrey or south london to take a look, or any experts locally who'll take a look in exchange for a bottle champers?

  5. Just a quick update chaps. have re-done the cambelt with the correct bottom pulley (flanged) mine was still using the old type so clearly had never been back to the dealers! It was a britpart :( pulley but i made sure by welding the front flange on myself and then using the lathe to true it up.

    The electrics have also been sorted, interior light and hazards all work. There's an earth that daisy chains off the hazard switch and it was faulty so i remade the earth and all is well.

    Just got to work out why the drivers side repeater light sometimes works and then somtimes doesn't :blink:

    Cheers.

  6. I think mine is only a fraction (with a shove the drill fits in the injector hole) but then how can you tell perfect 12 o clock on the crank? the injector bolts were loosened and the pump is on maximum adjustment. should i undo the belt and the bolts on the pulley and pump mounts, move the cambelt round a tooth on the injector pump pulley and reset the timing from there?

    I have removed the brake servo but all appears well there - forgot to mention!

    The electrics are confusing the hell out of me, to be honest my main concern is to get the hazards working to pass the MOT :huh:

    also all fuses inside the fusebox are intact :huh:

  7. Hi

    I had the same knock on my 300tdi and consulted various "LR mechanics" who came up with: bearing knock, head problems, etc, etc. One particular LR mechanic listened to it and started to write the job card saying "injector pump timing too fast". The invoice showed the following: Injector valve timing set / reset pump timing.

    The dreaded knock was gone!

    I think mine is only a fraction (with a shove the drill fits in the injector hole) but then how can you tell perfect 12 o clock on the crank? the injector bolts were loosened and the pump is on maximum adjustment. should i undo the belt and the bolts on the pulley and pump mounts, move the cambelt round a tooth on the injector pump pulley and reset the timing from there?

    I have removed the brake servo but all appears well there - forgot to mention!

    The electrics are confusing the hell out of me, to be honest my main concern is to get the hazards working to pass the MOT :huh:

  8. I've got a couple of niggling issues with my 1996 300tdi 90, you guys seem to have good knowledge so i thought i'd ask.

    first problem: the engine has this weird knocking, i've done the cambelt correctly (it did it before), checked the tappets, checked the big ends, replaced the pushrods. valves are straight, fitted new head gasket and inlet,exhaust. it's a weird knocking in that it sounds like a loose big endbut goes away at higher revs and is at its noisiest at lower engine speeds. - help!

    second problem: neither the heated rear window, interior light or hazards work. It used to blow the big main fuse (link2 IIRC) i found it was the glowplugs shorting, so i disconnected them replaced the fuse and it doesn't blow. however none of these circuits work.

    I made a lovely job of welding the chassis though! :ph34r:

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