rusty_wingnut
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Posts posted by rusty_wingnut
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I've done another tank of E10 (if that's what it is?) through the Series 1 since last post, not least because of the lack of diesel down here. Still no problems, it has a plastic float in the carb btw.
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I've read this with a wry smile, I would wager that you've got a number of factors combining to cause an issue but here are some ideas I have:
1) 1.2 transfer box is too high for a defender IMO - my old 300 90 wouldnt pull it on anything but a flat motorway. Having said this my 110 feels like it could manage, but every now and then when towing I think better of it!
2) you have a VNT ( unless I am misreading?) Again I had a VNT on my 90 and it was great for low down grunt but top end I never felt it was quite as good as a standard turbo.
3) I would say that although you've got new hoses you still need to check if you have a leak - new hoses dont mean uanything if they're leaking
4) Check if your intercooler is leaking, again because it's new or fancy doesn't mean it isn't leaking.
5) Check you have some lobes on your camshaft, again I've seen a couple of TDIs with barely any valve movement and this leads to poor performance.
6) Have you got a leak on the boost pipe from turbo to FIP? Similarly is your VNT actuated with a diaphragm has it got a hole?
7) Valve timing is worth a check as mentioned.
With respect I've seen a lot fo engines overhauled by experts and my opinion is that you are better doing it yourself and knowing it's right. This experience isn't just in Land Rovers, but also in my other vehicular interests. I viewed a 2ltr powered Series 1 recently that was restored and engine upgraded for performance etc, I was told the engine was built by an absolute specialist with years more experience than me, better cleaner worksho etc, and frankly when I drove it I was underwhelmed.
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I've not even done those - my fuel hose is all recent enough (as in, manufactured this millennium) and I've never seen any issue with the injector seals. Only thing I suspect was damaged by E-something fuel somewhere in Europe was the old-style cork seal on the fuel pump to tank joint, but that may just be an unlucky coincidence.
I've done even less than that on my Series 1 - still runs fine with no leaks. I haven't noticed an affect on the cork gaskets on the tank.
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Saw one in the flesh at the weekend, had a good look underneath as well. I'll say it all looks very interesting underneath with plenty of scope for additions etc. The chassis had an excellent looking finish on it, (although not quite on par with my 90s after it was rebuilt), but certainly better than most Defenders I've seen.
The interior was nice, it reminded me a lot of the defender, switch gear looks good etc. Always think that BMW shifter looks a little out of place. Steering wheel seemed small. Seats were nice and it was quite comfy, not L322 levels, but it seemed familiar as a Defender owner.
Not bad really.
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Very frustrating, I had just spent a fair chunk of money obtaining my trailer licence, having towed illegally for years, I felt it time to go by the book, expecially as I was moving the digger regularly.
What a waste of money that was !
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Does anyone here have experience of hydraulicvalve blocks controlled with solenoids? I would like to convert my older digger with manual controls to joysticks, at least in my head!
Of course there will be an argument not to, and that will probably be the ned of tonights crazy plan, but is this doable?
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SO wheel on backwards ( i tried this before btw) seems the way to go, otherwise it will strike the rear light with the door fully open. So next question, with the wheel on backwards, and the boost slipped over the solid bar parts of the carrier, I now need a nut with a sleeve so I can clamp the wheel down, any ideas on that? A standard nut won't get near it.
I tried putting a standard nut behind the wheel, but it seems there's not enough thread, and also the wheel sits to far off the carrier.
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Hi all, I've got one of these rear wheel carriers on my 110, since switching to Boost alloys, I can't see how to mount the spare to this carrier.
With steel you simply bolt it up, but with a Boost the holes are larger in diameter, and it seems I need some flanges to stop the wheel hitting the door. On top of this, if I put the wheel on backwards, I have enough stud, so could just weld some stops to the carrier?
Any thoughts?
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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:
It's different for different people too. I've alwasy found defender seats and the seating position fine for my slightly porky 6'3" temple of a body.
On the other hand a good friend chaged to a Merc (can't remember the model).... and was forever having a painful back after even only a 15-20min drive no matter how the seat was adjusted. Can't remember what he switched to now, but it never hurt again after that.
I don't find the Defender seating uncomfortable as such, it's obviously not on L322 levels though. Trouble is with the Defender, its the combo of noise, slow speed and lack of creature comforts that make it less than ideal for long distance hauling in my opinion.
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On 8/2/2021 at 7:55 AM, Ed Poore said:
What @garrycol said makes a fair amount of sense. I recently picked up a 4.4TDV8 L322 a few hours from home, I'd done the same drive in the 110 a few days before. Of the two I got out fresher from the 110, I was quite stiff in the Range Rover because I just sat still without moving. At least in the 110 I had to drive it as well as being bounced around a bit more.
I sat in an L322 all the way to Portugal and back, and frankly I dread to think how I'd of felt sat in my 110 doing the same mileage!
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So the V8 edition is marginally better performance wise than a 4.4 TDV8 L322......
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Right the copy grinder is good, but just like the Makita one it murders batteries. I can flatten my 5Ah in 15mins using a flap wheel - but having said that it's worth it for not having to run a cable to the drive. I've found in the workshop using a flap wheel in the cordless and having a cutting disc in the corded one is the best setup - meaning with an ordinary 2 plug socket I don't need to either keep changing discs/flap wheel or unplugging one tool.
The nut runner is still working, and I'm using it 5 days a week now - will do a whole day with two batteries.
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The cheap impact Makita copy nut runner was mentioned earlier, I'm still using mine and it's been great. So i treated myself to the copy grinder as well which seems to get good reviews.
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a lot of turbo problems are expensive via dealerships. simply because land rover don't replace the turbo actuator, but rather replace the whole unit!! which is crazy considering the electronic box is only around £100! Regardless of dealership issues a lot of issues are solved by simply replacing the turbo actuator. as long as the vanes move freely and you have intact intercooler pipes, that hold pressure.
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On 1/30/2021 at 4:04 PM, reb78 said:
This is exactly what I keep thinking. Can get a second hand L322 with the 4.4V8 diesel for under £20k now and one with the 3.6V8 well specced and not astronomical miles (often sub 100k miles) for less than £10k! They will do most things the new defender will do at less cost and probably more refinement? And... for some reason they seem to have fewer problems/better reliability than the same age discoveries and RRS and are easier to work on. I am just waiting for one to come up near me at the right price....
Everyone is catching up with my thinking!!!
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Wow that is cracking, excellent work!
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8 minutes ago, mmgemini said:
Youve completle missed my point. The 300Tdi radiator is NOT a crossflw even when new.
This is a good idea, crossflowing the rad and utilising the whole length in flow is a much better design.
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Nearly all engines will show wear of some kind similar to what you have. Unless you want to go to the extent of flushing the engine and the crank I would leave it.
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I got a fair bit of use out of mine recently - changing Ifor tyres by the side of the road, and removing some dead M10 bolts on a tipper body. Only had 1 Battery with me but it did a job.
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Another tip, if you get hold of the socket and try to turn it as the impact is hammering away that can also help break off stubborn fixings. Every little helps etc.
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I've got one, it's good but don't expect miracles from it. I found things like Fergie wheel nuts it won't touch, but if you're looking for something cheap it's bang on
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Cheers all, got it apart with help from here.
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It does - it’s soft rubber, worried I’m going to destroy the connector if I poke some mig wire down the holes in the front
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Does anyone know how this connector comes apart without breaking it? I think I have a broken wire at one of the terminals. 2008 FL2.....
LEZ (the old one not the new ULEZ)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Weirdly, mine is still exempt, as is my Dads. Both are original 110 SW/CSW.