soakes94

So I have been having major problems with my indictors and hazard lights, turned out to be 2 bad LED flasher relays. All sorted now and everything flashes as it should. Except the trailer light/hazard light indicator. Its a 1986 90 fitted with LED indicators (except the repeaters which are still the original bulbs), I have also fitted a Carling hazard light switch in the centre dash. My problem is that when I switch the hazard switch, the indictors all flash as they should but the trailer light doesn't light up on the dash. I have tried adjusting the relay but it doesn't make any difference whatever way I turn it. The only thing I haven't done and I will try and do it in the next few days is connect up the ground and red&black wire, however I believe this is just a backlight for the switch so that it glows when I turn on my sidelights? Any one have any ideas about what I'm doing wrong? Cheers

Hi I'm looking for part FRC7948 but I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone have one spare? Mine has snapped Thanks

Amazing thanks western Will get NRC8690 on order now! Cheers

So I'm struggling with what should probably be an easy thing! I need to order and fit a new brake master cylinder however I'm not sure which one I need! Its a 1986 90, however when I changed the servo a few years ago it didn't use the STC2878 as I thought it would but it used the NRC4772 servo unit. The brake pipe coming out of the cylinder clsoest to the front of the car is going to the front brakes and the one nearest the servo is going to the rear brakes. I think it needs part number NRC8690 but I was hoping someone could confirm for me. Cheers

So my 90 with a 300Tdi is making a lot of black smoke, probably enough to upset the MOT man, had a look at the intercooler pipes and they are thick with oil. Theres some up and down play in the turbo but no in and out movement. But either way I think it needs either new seals or a new turbo. Im thinking of just getting a new one just now. I don't have time to strip my current one down and rebuild it for me then todo it wrong and then have no turbo at all! My current issue is working out what I need. I went into the LR Direct website and put the part number in ERR4802 and got a list of options and this message "Beware of the different options being with or without branches click on each one to check. If feed pipe does not fit at the top you need ERR3495 pipe and ERR125 banjo bolt. If pipe does not fit at the bottom you need ETC8820 adaptor ERR1125 banjo bolt." What does this mean? How do I work out what I need? Its a 300Tdi Engine from a late discovery (Engine code 21L92556A). Also are there any parts that I'm likely to break or upset in doing this, bolts, studs, gaskets? Id rather buy them and have them than change my turbo on Saturday snap a bolt and be stranded until Tuesday! Cheers Stephen

Thanks for the photos, I will have a look tomorrow and see what I can do! No worry of it being submerged, I don't have a raised air intake on my 90 so I would have bigger worries if the water was that high! Cheers

Any advice for removing the old flange? Ive tried the socket method with a 8mm nut and bolt but just seem to either stretch the threads or snap the bolts, have tried heating it as well to break the lock tight but no luck. I might just attack it with a grinder as I don't need it again!

Do you have any photos of the install? I looked at putting it on the other side, but the brake servo and master cylinder are in the way and then all the steering columns. Cheers

So there are 24 splines, and it currently has a 3 bolt flange. I took it apart and I had drive flange, nut, locking washer, nut, bearing, spacer, bearing, seal. Is this the newer one then? Cheers Stephen

So I just bought a 2nd hand discovery rear axle to fit to my 90. Im wanting to change the bearings on it but I'm not sure which axle I have. I know it doesn't have ABS but on paddocks I have the choice of to JA032850 (1992) and then from JA032850 after 1992. What would be something that would help me decide? The 2 kits paddock offer appear to be different but I don't know in what way and don't want to end up with the wrong one! Cheers Stephen

So I'm trying to find a suitable location to install a Webasto Thermo Top Z heater in my 1986 90. My first thought was in-front of the heater matrix where everyone else seems to install them. Made sense to me, nice and close to the heater matrix piping, easy enough to wire in and get a diesel feed. However my 90 is fitted with a 300TDi and the discovery air filter box is fitted exactly where my Webasto wants togo. Am I easier relocating the air box to somewhere else? If so where and how? Or am I better putting my Webasto somewhere else, and if so where do people recommend. I do want to try and keep it higher up so it doesn't get to much thrown at it from motorway driving, also making it easy to work on should it ever break would also be useful! Cheers Stephen

I've not no, will do that today. However it does seem to be running okay just now (I now know after saying that it will break down again tonight!). If the gauze strainer looks okay, I will order a new pump. Just as a side question, what do people think about fitting electric fuel pumps instead of the mechanical ones? My current ones is about 1.5 years old and is a Delphi one, and this isn't the first time I've had one fail in 4ish years! Cheers

So if removing the bleed screen from the filter lets air in to the point the point the car stalls there is probably something wrong with the lift pump? And what's happening just now is the injection pump is pulling the fuel up from the tank but with the bleed screw open the injection pump just pulls air in? Cheers Stephen

Just a quick one, and it might be nothing but with the engine running, if you open the bleed screw should diesel come out or should air go in...? I think diesel should come out but then again I'm just guessing!

I did change the pipe out with a rubber one between the tank and the pump, the pipe I remove looked okay but I know it could be the smallest of holes or cracks that does this. Cant say that there is a particular smell or anything different than normal. I will check the oil level though. Going to take the car out a drive and see how it behaves. Its been idling away fine and rev's fine but haven't tried it under load. S

So if the fuel is draining away from the filter relatively quickly then its likely that the pump has failed or is failing?

So this morning I tried swapping out the old pipe with some 8mm flexible rubber hose with jubilee clips. But I'm still getting air in the filter. But I have noticed that when hand pumping the fuel pump once I get diesel coming out the bleed nipple if I stop pumping for 5 seconds to tighten up the nipple the diesel drains away (I'm guessing back to the tank) and I need to re-prime it. Is this normal? I would have thought the pump would have had a 1 way valve or something to stop this happening? Starting to wonder if the problem isn't my fuel pipes but the fuel pump, but it is a newish one and a delphi one. But I guess it could have just failed early. Cheers

Everything appears tight, the lift pump connections got new olives when it fitted (1.5 years ago). I was going to start with replacing the fuel lines and pickup from the tank. Wondering if someone can help me with part numbers and what fittings I need as well as pipe size. The tricky part or possible tricky part is thats its a 1986 90 with a 300TDi, so the pickup is going to be 1986 parts and sizes and the fuel pump is 300TDi. Cheers Stephen

More updates. Ran the car for 30ish minutes on idle. Which it seemed todo fine. Went to check how primed the fuel filter was and it took maybe 15/20 pumps of the fuel pump go get the diesel to come out the bleed nipple. So my thought is that air is getting in somewhere. No obvious signs of anything split but I guess it just needs to be tiny crack. Does this sound right to everyone else? And if it does are the fuel pipes a part or are they just make your own? Cheers

So an update. I didn't mention this before but I don't think the fuel filter had been changed in a while so I thought I would change it. First checked if primed and it wasn't tried pumping the fuel pump for ages and nothing, then tried turning the engine over with the fuel solenoid disconnected still nothing. The car would start and run though. My thought was fuel pump, took off the old filter, and tried pumping the fuel pump and it seemed fine, put a new filter on, filled it with diesel first though and then topped it off with the hand pump. It squirted out like it always has so don't think its the pump. Ive left it running just now and will go out once its stopped raining and see what happening. If there is air in the top of the filter again and I need to re-prime it does that mean I have an air leak on the low pressure side? Cheers Stephen

2 nights ago on my way home the car felt like it lost all power (had the music up loud so didn't actually hear the revs drop) but it started judder like it was going to stall. Turned the music down and dropped into 4th with my foot to the floor I was getting 45mph. Cleared up pretty quickly and all was back to normal until tonight on my way home when it done the same thing. However this time at lower speed, rolled up to some traffic lights, stopped and when I pulled away it was fine again. It's a 1986 90 with a 300Tdi. I'm guessing some kind of fuel issue. Either bad fuel (was from sainsburys) blocked filter, something in the tank or an air leak. Lift pump is maybe 2 years old and was a Delphi one. Can't say I've noticed any smoke but I haven't really been looking. Going to investigate tomorrow morning, also will change fuel filter, fill up with some shell diesel and add some of that diesel system cleaner thing. But wondering if anyone has any other suggestions as to what to look for or check? Cheers Stephen

So I just got myself a second hand discovery 300Tdi axle and planned to fit it to my 1986 Defender. My plan was to strip it all down, do the seals and brakes and stuff before fitting it. However removing the callipers caused some issues. Got one side off all okay however the other side isn't playing ball. The bolts have now snapped, leaving some left over bits stuck in the axle. Ive tried drilling them and using a nut remover which didn't work, it just seemed to remove the cutting edge from the removing tool. Ive tried loads of heat (it is just a blow torch and can't say its ever turned orange or red), do I maybe need something a little stronger? Obviously tried loads and loads of oil and stuff as well. Any help would be amazing since I don't want my "new" axle to become a paper weight! Cheers Stephen

Will do, I did fill up the new transfer box after fitting but knowing my luck its probably already leaked out! Cheers

So I've just changed my transfer box to a 1.22 ratio and wow what a change! Wasn't the easiest of things to-do just because its so heavy and awkward but I got there. However since the change I have started to notice a hot smell coming from the car. Its usually when I arrive at work or back at home about 20 minute drive mainly all motorway. I only smell it when I've been stationary for a minute. Guessing that's how long it takes the smell to work its way up into the cabin. My thoughts are its either handbrake catching, but it does seem to move freely or something todo with the new transfer box, to the touch the transfer box is hot but I'm guessing that this is normal? The car its self feels fine, there is some whine from the transfer box but I did fit a new input gear so guessing it could just be the teeth? Any ideas or anything I should pay particular attention to? Cheers Stephen

Ah! Amazing! Wish I had seen this already! Cheers