soakes94

Wasn't very easy though. I had spinal fusion surgery 6 and a bit weeks ago. Was totally worth it and will be in the long run but I'm just hoping the landy holds out until I'm able todo serious work on it again! Best of luck with yours when it comes around! S

So just changed the master cylinder, I would say it feels a bit more normal now. Maybe need to bleed the system more but I can't get under the car because of my back so will need to convince someone todo that fun job for me! S

Will double check tomorrow and change the master cylinder as I already have one. If no change then I need to make friends with someone who has an engine lift! S

No sign of any fluid on the peddle and the fluid level hasn't changed. Could it be failing and not leaking?

So I had a look under the car today and the slave cylinder is dry. Which leaves me with 2 options, master cylinder (I will attempt to change tomorrow) & failing clutch. Ive had the car for 2ish years now and don't know when the clutch was last changed. What are some good signs or tests that its on its way out? The bitting point just now is right at the top of the peddle and there isn't much bitting area if that makes sense. I wouldn't say that the clutch is either 0% disengaged or 100% engaged. I always feel like its struggling to get to 100% engaged but I could be wrong, I'm still new to all of this! Hoping it will all be okay after changing the master since I can't afford to change a clutch and certainly can't do it myself just now! Stephen

It was my plan to change both Peter but I finished replacing the slave cylinder on Sunday afternoon and was to be in hospital Monday morning and wanted to spend my last evening doing something other than fixing my car haha. Might try and look at changing it tomorrow or finding someone todo it for me

So 6ish weeks ago I changed my clutch slave cylinder on my 1986 90 fitted with a 300Tdi but still using the LT77. Haven't driven it much as I needed spinal surgery. Had someone else drive it for a while to keep it happy. I'm back driving again just short journeys and the clutch just doesn't feel right. The biting point seems really close to the top of the peddle and it feels like there isn't enough upward travel in the pedal to fully engage the clutch. (If that makes sense!). I wouldn't say I've noticed a loss in power and it can pull away with the handbrake on. I'm wondering if this is a sign of the master cylinder going? I bought one but never had time to install it or is the clutch? I had also noticed a small leak under the defender of clearish fluid. So my thinking is I didn't manage to tighten up the nipple or pipe all the way. I'm going to try and have someone check. Assuming it's not that what do people think? My movement is really limited just now and will be until February/March time. So I'm hoping it's nothing to serious! Stephen

Okay and both parts have been ordered S

That's great thanks parts ordered. Only other question is any tips to make this job easy? I'm going into hospital on Monday for spinal surgerg and won't be able to drive my car for 3 months and can't work on it for 9 months. So I'm wanting to get this done ASAP so when I can drive I have a working clutch haha. Cheers Stephen

Can someone help me out with part numbers? I'm stumped there seem to be loads of options and I've no idea which I want. It's a 1986 90 CSW with a LT77 gearbox and a 300tdi engine. Thanks Stephen

So jumped in my defender today (1986 90 with a 300tdi) and the clutch felt weird. Haven't driven it for a day or 2 as I've had a hire van so thought maybe it just feels weird. But lifted left foot a little and the car bounced away. Had a look at the fluid level and it's dropped a little and a new puddle has appeared under the car. My guess is failed slave clutch cylinder. Just looking for someone to confirm my suspicion. Also am I right to think that http://www.paddockspares.com/591231g-clutch-slave-cylinder-trw-lucas.html Is the correct part? It is as far as I can tell Cheers Stephen

So its time to change my brakes, they squeal a little when braking so thought why not change them while its sunny. Its a Defender 90 CSW 1986 with a 300Tdi engine. As far as I know the brakes are standard. My first question is am I right in thinking its part number STC9191? It seems to be right as far as I can see anyway! My next question is which brand to get? I don't off road and most of my driving is motorway. Also am I worth changing the disks while I'm in there? No idea when they were last done, I have had the car for 1.5 years and haven't done anything with the brakes except change the servo (which is a 110 servo, not sure if that changes things?). Are the pads FRC7329? Also any particular brand or style? Grooved, drilled or just solid? Any advice or help would be useful, want to change it when it all when its nice and I have some spare time! S

Perfect thanks! Hopefully no more hard starts in the winter now! (Assuming I manage to fit it!) Cheers Stephen

That's great thanks guys for all the info. When you say pin 1 gets connected to switched power is the 12V or negative I connect to it to turn it on and off? Thanks Stephen

So a few nights ago I made a random purchase. I bought myself a Webasto on eBay. Its a Thermo Top Z/C-D. Didnt cost to much and it seems in pretty good shape. Its from a Rover 75. My question is, can and how do I start it. On the top I have 2 connectors. One has 2 pins (Power im guessing) and the other has 6 but only 3 pins have cables coming out. Pins 1,2 & 6 whch google tells me are 1 = Clock, 2 = Diagnose & 6 = metering Pump. So my thoughts are Pin 1 needs either 12V or grounded to start? Which is it though because I'm sure the wrong one will destroy it. Pin 2 = Is for fault finding Pin 3 = The fuel pump it doesnt have! I think I just have to ground pin1 does that sound right? Just looking for some confirmation really because I go destroying it! Thanks Stephen

So I've found the bit I need to adjust. However I can't work out for the life of me how to adjust it. I know I need to undo the lock the nut and then turn the shaft to extend it but I can't work out how I do it. I'm guessing I'm missing something but I've no idea what? Stephen

I will have a look and see what I can find!! The cylinder hasn't been changed. Not by me anyway. It looks like it's been there for a while so it might be the original! So it could be just bad luck and the servo and master cylinder have failed around the same time!! Stephen

So I still aren't 100% happy with the brakes. Ive bled the servo, a little bit of air but nothing concerning. The pedal now goes hard but the braking seems very random. Sometimes it seems fine (I can lock it all up and skid along the road, not ideal but at least I know its got nothing else to give!) and sometimes its rubbish and you have to push really hard to get anything useful. Have I just been really unlucky and need both a new servo and master cylinder at the same time? Thanks Stephen

I'm guessing the chance of air in the system is pretty small since I never disconnected any of the brake lines? In terms of adjusting the servo pushrod. How do I do that? Is that the bit under the cover at the top of the brake pedal? Thanks Stephen

So the part arrived and is fitted. And it fits!! However the break pedal now feels really soft. It still breaks and stops but only with the peddle pushed down. I'm still struggling to get it to lock up. Not obviously what you want but at least then I know the breaks are giving everything. I didn't disconnect any break pipes while changing the servo. Managed to move the master cylinder with everything still attached. So I shouldn't need to bleed the breaks? Or do I? Stephen Some extra info, with the car switched off the pedal goes solid. Start the car and the pedal sinks quite a bit. With the car running, pumping the pedal does nothing. The pedal doesn't go hard. Is this maybe just me experiencing "proper" defender brakes? Stephen

I will order a NRC4772 and see how that goes! Think this is going to be a trial and error kind of thing! Stephen

Okay so a new servo it is. I just need to work out which kind is mine. I found this website http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm It looks to me that I have a type 80 servo. Found in 1980 110's. Part number NRC4772. I'm making this assumption based on the photos and the position of the vaccume hose on the servo. Would that possibly be right? Stephen

So an update, thought I'd try some instant gasket, between the servo and master cylinder. It helped but there is still a hissing. Which makes me think a seal needs changing? Stephen

This one here also looks the same as mine. If I put my finger under the master cylinder I can feel the suction from a gap between the servo and the master cylinder. Im guessing its maybe a seal or something? Im tempted to fill it with some kind of sealent (I know its not a long term fix though and would rather just sort it properly) Cheers Stephen

I have attatched photos of the old and new. Had a little look around online and it looks like this item on eBay. However after googling that part number the other items dont look the same? Stephen