soakes94

So I tried to change the part but failed . The replacement is smaller than the original, the connection for the vacuume hose is also in the wrong place. (New is top right, old is top left, as you look it the front of it). It also didn't seem to want to sit flush, seemed like something was pushing from the bottom as the bottom was sticking out. When I had the old unit I had a look for holes/cracks but couldn't see anything. I can feel the suction on my finger between the servo and master cylinder. On the underside. Is this a seal between the servo and master cylinder? Thanks Stephen

One last thing to check. Am I right to say that the bleed nipples on the callipers are 11mm? I'm guessing I will have to bread the brakes after and wanted to have a flare nut wrench. Stephen

Thats great thanks western. I will order one of those and get it fitted! S

Just wondering if anyone can help me find the right servo? Im guessing the direct replacement is STC2878 but I'm not sure. I had also read that I can use a more recent servo from a newer defender to improve braking. What part number would this be? Just wanting to check, I recently was approaching a green light that I was hoping to make, however I didn't. So I hit the brakes. I couldn't push the pedal any harder without using another foot and I couldn't get it to lock up. Ended up across the line. I would have only been going 30mph as well with no heavy loads or anything. Usually it would have locked up and skidded to a stop but not this time. Is this todo with the servo or is there more going wrong that I haven't noticed yet? S

Okay so new servo it is! Is there an upgraded one to use? Or just the standard? It's a 1986 defender. I was sure I had seen somewhere that I could use a 300tdi one but I could be wrong!! Cheers Stephen

So recently my 1987 90 has developed a hissing noise. Its coming from between the brake servo and the master cylidner. I have noticed that braking can be a little spongy at times as well. It doesnt do to well when I have alot of weight in the car either. I had been planning on upgrading the brakes for a while but it was a job for when I can afford it. However the new noise has pushed it to the top of the pile. (Oh its a 1987 90 CSW with a 300tdi). My plan is to fit vented discs and change the callipers as requried. Does anyone have a part number for the bigger callipers? I think they are from 110's if I'm correct? And am I right in thinking they are a direct relacement? Or will I need to change other parts to make them fit? (Also guessing this will change the pad size as well?) Also I had read about upgrading the servo to a newer one? Does anyone have the part number for that? Also is there any upgrade I can do to the master cylidner? And just to check I cant do much with the back brakes (Drums) without changing the axle? Also any other tips? I had heard about using higher spec brake fluid? Thanks Stephen

This morning my defender wouldn't start (300tdi from a disco in a 1987 90). It was turning over fine. Tried holding the accelerator pedal down and that didn't help either. I filled it up with yesterday with 15 litres of vegetable oil and 30ish litres of diesel. It drove home fine (5ish miles). I've ran it on this mix of veg oil and diesel before with no problems. Changed the fuel filter and filled it with fresh diesel. It started and off to work I went. Started fine tonight at work and drove home fine (minus my fuel solenoid call dropping off halfway across a traffic light junction). Only noticeable thing tonight was as the car warmed up the idle speed increased. Is the mix of veg oil and diesel wrong? (To much veg oil) causing cold start problems and then an increasing idle? Thanks Stephen

That's it all sorted now came in from work last night started to fit if about 11. Had a dead battery trying to prime the pump so gave up and went to bed at 1:30. Up this morning some jump leads later and it was sorted. Took it out a run and seems to be more responsive now so that's good!! Thanks for all the help! Stephen

Well its payday and I have treated myself a Reconditioned Injection Pump. It will arrive tomorrow So I'm going to get my old one out and prep for the new one and hope it all works because I don't have any other options!! Thanks for all the help! If I have any other problems Im sure I will be back here to let you all know! Thanks again Stephen

So found a reconditioned unit on eBay part number ERR4419 which is a 300tdi injection pump without any of the EGR bits which is fine as mine doesn't have any EGR bits fitted. Its mechanically controlled and from what I have read they pumps are interchangeable so it should work fine! Once I have the money I will my pump reconditioned and sell it on or keep it on the shelf as a backup for myself or someone on here who ends up in the same spot as I'm in! S

How long does Diesel Bob usually take? Im meant to be leaving for a holiday on Tuesday and with the weekend fast approaching I don't think I'm going to manage to get it down reconditioned and back up in time for me going away. I think I will end up having to buy a reconditioned one and then have my one reconditioned and sell it to make the money back if that makes sense. S

Well I have had another look tonight hoping to find something obvious but nope no such luck. There is in and out play on the shaft and if you rotate the shaft it pulls in (towards the back of the car and then back as I rotate it around. So this means a new injector pump. So where do people recommend I go? Also what part number... Its a 300tdi from a discovery, it did have an EGR but no longer does. Its all mechanical (fitted to a 1987 90 so no electronics on it). Do I need the part numbers/serial numbers from the pump? Im happy to fit a reconditioned pump, probably don't have time to have mine reconditioned! Also in the of chance anyone around me (Central Scotland) have one lying around spare... The sooner I'm back on the road the better S

Okay not touching the bolt haha. In terms of the bolt it came from the locking plate of the injection pump! That would be great if you could have a look at your injection pump and let me know. Im guessing it was like that last night when I was out driving with it and it was fine, just a "nippy" as ever! No loss of power and no diesel leaks anywhere from the pumo. Theres a few injection pumps on ebay going second hand (cant afford a refurb just now) so might pick one of those up since everything seems to be pointing to mine being dead! S

With the pully off there is still about 1mm of movement in the shaft or possibly the shaft. The only obvious nut to try and tighten would be the nut in the centre of the hub. There doesnt seem to be any movement in the pump body it seems fixed solid S

I tried my best to measure the movement today with a tape measure so it's not accurate but seemed to only be about 1mm of movement. It's not the pulley that's moving but it could be the hub. How's best to check the hub? I'm away from it just now but if I have a list of things to try and check when I get home that's always good! Also the only reason for running it without the cover was just to see if the noise had gone and if it was just caused by the bit of nut that I found. Otherwise it probably adds half and hour on to put the cover back on see how it sounds and then take it apart again! S

Some updates. Been out and using the power of the sun noticed a snapped bolt under my car. And in the process of removing me injection pump noticed it was missing a locking bolt. Also with the FIP pusshed back towards the rear of the case it doesn't touch the case and there are no marks on the pulley or case where it would have been hitting. I'm wondering if this bolt has broken half way along my journey then bounced around the timing case making all horrible kinds of noises but never in time just random. It would explain the metal dust. And maybe the play in the injection pump is "normal" it's not much at all maybe 3 or 4mm I would say. I think I will put it all back together and start it up and see what happens. Can I run the engine with the timing case off? I know I need the harmonic balancer (i think that's what I mean. The big metal pulley wheel at the very bottom?) just so I can see what's going on? Thanks Stephen

I'm going to say it's the shaft based on the fact i csn move it easily with one hand and it feels almost sprung loaded, if you push it away from yourself and let go it pops back towards you. I'm guessing if I remove the FIP and there is play on the shaft out of the vehicle then it's an overhaul. If I was to buy a second hand one just now is there anything specific I need to get. Are they specific to a version of the 300tdi or will any other injection pump from a 300tdi work? Thanks Stephen

As far as I can see its all in line across all the pullys and tensioners. It seems the injection pulley is moving back and forward and when it goes back its hitting the back of the timing case causing the noise and the metal dust. Thats my guess anyway. Don't know if thats possible or how to fix it! S

So yesterday I was going to change my timing case front cover due to a failed fan bearing. While I had the front cover off I noticed a load of fluff. First time ever doing it but thought I would change the timing belt. Cant be to hard right? Well it was a little tricky but I got there (Or so I thought) started it up no noises or anything, all seemed fine. Drove it up to temp for maybe 15 minutes along 60mph roads. Stopped had a listen and all sounded good. Drove for another 10/15 minutes and stopped and there as a noise. A metal on metal noise. Got it home and off came the cover again. Lots of metal dust especially around the Injection pump pulley. Couldn't see anything obvious no marks or anything. Took the belt of and there is play in the pulley not as in clockwise anti-clockwise play but play forward and back (towards the back of the car and then to the front of the car. Not much but enough and it sounds like its hitting the back of the timing case. Video here - This might help explain all of my rambling up there ^^^ So what does this mean for me? Is it something nice and simple and easy? (I hope so!) or is it a new injection pump (Please No I don't have the money) Im working all day tomorrow so won't be able to try anything until then but guessing it will be injection pump of first which I will do when I get home. The sooner I can get it fixed the better as this is my daily commuter (I have also included a photo of the new Timing belt and the only one) Thanks Stephen

So just looking for some advice of what kind of oil and if anyone can recommend where to buy it (the cheaper the better!) I have plenty of engine oil but I was going todo the gearbox, transfer box and the 2 diffs. (Its a 300tdi with a LT77 gear box and a LT230 transfer box). Its a 1986 Land Rover 90 with the standard axels fitted. From what I've worked out I will need ATF fluid and EP90. I was going to get 5L of ATF so I can top up the power steering fluid as well and have some spare for when it leaks. Probably going to need 10L of EP90 to cover the diffs (they might need a flush) and the transfer box and also some spare for when it leaks out! Am I best going to halfords or is there anywhere online that people find good? Im about 20/30 minutes west of Edinburgh any body know of any places around the area that would supply it at a decent price? Thanks Stephen

So I have ordered some fuel filters, I have 60L of veg oil and as soon as my filters arrive I will start messing around. Going to start at 30/70 mix and go up from there as it gets warmer. One question is should I drain the diesel tank before I start using my oil/diesel mix? Just so I dont get false idea, no point of me thinking it works great on 30/70 when its more like 20/80 because there was diesel in the tank? Stephen

Thanks for all the replies, my plan was to run it on new vegetable oil £12.99 for 20L in Costco just now (I think might have been £13.99). Also would have access to used cooking oil but Im not really setup just now for filtering oil and leaving it to sit for long periods of time. Hows best to work out the best ratio? Don't want todo a 50/50 mix and find its to cold and then have a tank sitting full of fuel I can't use or try to go to work and can't get anywhere! I have thought about a heating system and dual tanks but don't have the time just now or the money to set that kind of thing up! Start maybe 30/70 and see how it runs? S Also would I get away using some cheap Britpart filters to start with or should I stick with something a little better? S

So I'm wanting to try and use some vegetable oil in my diesel tank. I'm not looking to run on 100% vegetable oil. But what's a good starting point and I know the mix tends to be based on the temperature. I'm in sunny Scotland where just now where the temperature is between 1 and 11 degrees. Should I be looking at maybe 10 litres of oil to 30 litres of diesel? It's a 1987 Land Rover 90 with a 300TDi engine. And at what point could I do a 50/50 mix and could I ever do a more oil than diesel mix? Obviously it depends on alot of stuff but just a rough idea would be good. Anything else I should be aware of? I'm going to get some extra filters and will carry one with me just incase. Thanks Stephen

So just as I treated myself to a cubby box and a full seat retrim and a raptor dash (It was my Birthday!) I get a new noise from my defender. Its a 1987 CSW with the original LT77 gearbox with a 300TDI from a Discovery. So today on my way to work going down the motorway crusing at a happy 55/60 I get this grating noise I guess is how to descibe it. The speedo which usually has choppy movements (never sits in one place) started to move fluidly between 50-70. I keep going for a while looking for anything obvious but nothing. I push the break and the speed change didnt seem todo much to the noise when I pressed the clutch nothing happened, however I held it in for maybe 5 seconds and then the noise stopped. I pulled over once I was off the motorway and looked for anything obvious but there was nothing. Im guessing its cluth/gearbox/transfer box related? I did try to recreate the noise on the rest of my journey to work but I couldnt. I wasnt able to get upto the same speeds maybe only 40/45 but all sounded fine and the car seems to work like it always has. Any ideas or should I just hope it doesnt happen again and maybe turn the radio up more? Thanks Stephen

Perfect thanks western! Stephen