secondjeremy
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Posts posted by secondjeremy
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I'd drive it around in 2WD with no front shaft and see if it settles and the shaft will then attach
Or make up a spacer to fit the shaft and flange and fit with long bolts. Make sure you've got clearance on the crossmember under the clutch.
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I agree the centre hub cap should be there.
If it leaks round the drive flange joint it may well be the 6 flange bolts have stretched - which means they don't tighten properly. They're 3/8 BSF. and stretch on the threaded portion. This can be checked by running a die or nut down the thread.
I'm sure what happens is that as they're convenient they get heaved on during assembly. I think there are 3 torque figures gven in various enditions of the workshop manual - between 27 & 30 lb ft.
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If plastic will do you you can buy blocks of the stuff from e-bay.
You may then be able to shape it with router.
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Have you tried getting your hand up behind the plate from under the bonnet? I think you may be able to put nuts on - or alternatively make up a plate from 6mm steel to cover all 3 holes, tap it M6 or something and use that.
I repair these things - but the last few I've done have been S2's and I can't remember the detail of a S3 one.
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Or you could use later single ended nuts. Late S2a's use a short 15/16 nut.
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https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/
Loads of information on site and even more in catalogue - which can be downloaded - see near bottom of column on left.
Convention seems to be that wiring shouldn't be loaded at more than 1/2 its rated capacity - ie 20 amp load needs 40amp cable.
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Maybe worth having a look at the MigWelding forum?
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This topic is dealt with at considerable length on the S2 club sites - old and new.
The Lucas 488 units look good but aren't necessarily correct - in some cases the correct lights look more like the currently available cheap lights.
The Lucas 488 chrome ring has to be fitted then the lower lit levered over the base of the chrome ring. A procedure which generally ends up with scratched paint!
Lucas 488 parts and many others are available from Holdens.
https://www.holden.co.uk/c/electrical/lighting/side_and_flasher_lamps/page/3
the rear lights should be 3 in units - the one above the number plate having a white lens. There are some repros available - but they're not very good - in that the holder is plastic and melts. If you can salvage an original I think the new lens fits. Otherwise you may be able to persuade a L488 bulbholder into the new rubber and fit a new lens.
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When welding you may find that clamping the 2 tubes into the 'V' of a length of angle helps keep them in place while tacking up.
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Is outward-opening safe? Suppose something falls against the door? Or kids jam it with a plank under the handle?
Bit like a rope round an old-fashioned phone box!
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I'd have thought so BUT my Focus which only has a VHF (not DAB) radio has an aerial as well as a heated front screen - both are factory fit.
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If its got a separate bulb its not sealed beam.
new reflector/glass units aren't expensive - eg:
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Its it a sealed beam unit? If so its a sealed glass unit - in effect the bulb - so no access.
If its a steel unit the reflector usually rusts and the thing will disintegrate if handled. If it doesn't you may be able to prise the reflector and the glass apart, clean and re-assemble - but have a look at the price of new ones before you do.
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The pipe 56 should go from the tank to the pump - and have a BSP nut on it to fit the tank fitting.
The pipe 57 has a steel tube stuffed in it at the carb end and the flexi 58 fits onto the tube and the stub pipe on the Zenith carb if you're lucky.
I think the pipe 38 is the pipe jining the 2 raised bits of a LWB rear mounted tank. (The tank is shaped to fit round the chassis and has a vent pipe between the to high parts, presumably to enable it to be filled.)
45 is the filler vent pipe.
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Pulleys are available - later ones have a timing notch in them - which is handy if you use a strobe (Pointers also have part numbers and are obtainable - and should be fitted before the pulley as the bolts are behind the pulley and long)
Pulleys should pull straight out when the centre nut has been removed. They can rust onto the crank which makes the job more interesting. They are not attached to the chain cover or to the mud shield which covers the seal (plate covering the seal and held on by 8 rivets)
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERC5349-Crankshaft-Pulley-2.25Pd2.5P/?keep_https=yes
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I'd assumed the timer on Fords front screen was simply an economy measure and to keep unnecessary loads off the electrical system. Cars in the 60's had embedded wire heated rear screens and they had no timers at all.
Switch:https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-59-switches/c-167-lever-switches?page=2
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My Citroen BX DTR Turbo had 2 electric fans and switching which connected them in series for low speed and parallel for fast. So why not switch them so you've got the choice - low - in series, high - in parallel.
Since the elements are embedded in glass I can't see that running them under voltage will hurt.
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I think with the lightweight it depends on what you would like to end up with. By this I mean the lights - which are much more complicated with options like convoy lights which extiguish al others and that sort of thing. Otherwise I don't see any reason why you can't wire it as a civilian S3.
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The idea is that you thread the band through the split pin and then turn it to tighten the thing up. The other end should be cmpressed between the band and the axle. Works quite well!
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So what are you looking for? The ring and screws?
All have part numbers but I don't think are available - I've looked for the screws which are 2BA but can't find any at the moment as shortly I'm going to need some.
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You can fit small studs easily, remove thread and pull into place with a nut. Nice to recess them into the hub at the back, They are a bit shorter - being intended for the single - ended nut. Larger nuts (27mm spanner size) are available for the 9/16 thread. Paddocks usually display a range on their website.
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Later vehicles use a CV cylinder with an attached reservoir for the clutch. Great fun to fill with the bonnet in place! Servo brake models have the reservoir on the cylinder or thereabouts.
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I think Paintman paint is classed as synthetic - in which case I've been regularly told that synthetic primer doesn't need an etch. I have painted alloy this way once - with no problems - and don't think it peeled the first time it rained but don't know what happened long term.
I use Super*Etch which seems happy on alloy, steel and filler and has the advantage of being a filler as well which means that I can build up coats if necessary at the same time as I etch.
(Convenient data:) https://www.express-paints.co.uk/upoxy-super-etch-primer-kit-2-0l/
You do need protection to use it.
Sandblaster
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Have a similar cabinet and 3HP Clarke compressor. OK - uses lots of air and not very quick especially if there's a lot of dirt or rust. Difficult to see what you're doing due to dust - which gets everywhere. I Still use a professional sandblaster for serious stuff.