secondjeremy
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Posts posted by secondjeremy
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The regulator itself is usually mounted on the back of the speedo. Yes I know the speedo doesn't need the regulator - but that's where they put it.
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So its been standing for some time without being driven? The clutch plate can get stuck to either the flywheel or presser plate by corrosion. Sometimes its possible to get it free by brute force but sometimes there's no alternative to dismantling.
Hydraulics - you should feel a very small amount of play at the top of the pedal - then it should get heavier as it operates. Its important that the pedal returns properly and freely for the system to function properly.
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The sensor functions as a variable resistor - operated no-doubt by a diaphragm & spring or something - so the thing will earth through that. It'll need an ignition-controlled supply - which can be taken from something convenient - its probably considered to be an extra and so relatively universal in fitting - and so uses a full 12 volt supply (as opposed to the 10 volt supply for the later fuel and temperature gauge) - but have a good look at the case to see if it says anything.
I'm sure the sensor side must be wired completely separately from the warning light.
The light is an entirely separate circuit which can be connected in parallel to the other panel lights. (Possible query about overloading but I don't think that'll be a problem on an otherwise standard vehicle)
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If it is the shaft it may be worth fitting new ones - by the time you've bought the UJ's, got the thing apart, found the splined joint isn't reallly as good as you'd like, re-assembled it and fitted it new hardy Spicer shafts complete don't seem that bad. (eg)
https://www.lrdirect.com/STC121-Propshaft-Front-Swb/?keep_https=yes
https://www.lrdirect.com/FRC4907-Propshaft-Rear-Swb/?keep_https=yes
https://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/propshaft.html
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Series speedos all have the same drive gears in the gearbox - the difference being in the head. SWB on 600 x 16 - or 205 x 16 have speedos with 1500 or 1536 Turns Per Mile, LWB's etc on 750 x 16's have 1408 and there are some others like 1376 or something for larger tyres.
The early S2 gearbox has a cut groove for 2 parts of a circlip to be inserted to keep the parts in place. later on (1964???) Rover changed the shaft for an 'improved' version that looks much stouter. In fact they may well have improved its snapping ability as they frequently snap at the 'reverse' end - where the shaft changes diameter. Most of us who use lathes were taught that such a cut should be radiused to reduce stress - so Rover cut it square with a very sharp corner - and guess where it snaps.
Having said that from the boxes I've dismantled I'd say the true enemy is the springs in the 3rd/4th synchro unit (RTC1956) - which fall out when old and soft. I'd suggest that if you have box apart for any reason that you change these springs as a preventative measure. (They are a flat metal 'leaf' - and when they come out they tend to get between the gear teeth - which may be enough to break the layshaft.)
For an appreciation of the layshaft problem have a look at the old S2 club website where the subject was discussed by some apparently very knowlegeable people.
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What's happening to the throttle and its linkage?
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'71 should have an all-synchro box with the later transfer box. The number will be on the top front of the transfer box arm and there should not be any number on the gearbox itself - which means that you can dismantle the gearbox and find its a different model to what you think it is! (There are 4 types of S3 main box - identified by suffix letters - A - D)
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I'd suggest that you make up a wooden corner jig - possibly with a 5/8 guide for welding up the corners. You can use magnets - but I find them fiddly and awkward - hence slow - and everything moves when you clamp the earth on - which has by now fallen off and you've got to align it all again. With the wooden jig - simply fit the rails, butt them up and clamp in place. Guide rails on the jig might help get everything flat. Wood will do especially if you only use it for tacking up.
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How old is the vehicle? Does it have an early transfer box?
{Early (pre about 1963) suffer from wear of the transfer box intermediate gear shaft and roller bearings. Its relatively easy to cure - the box doesn't have to come out - problem is that the bearings are virtually unobtainable although the shaft was available. If it wears the thing tends to howl when driven - the noise rising with vehicle speed. The noise will seem to be coming from the centre seat. Land Rover cured the problem by massively increasing the size of most of the shaft and the roller bearings - which unusually for Rover - worked. Bits for the later box are relatively cheap. You can't fit later parts to an earlier box.}
Using low ratio means that the gear at the back of the intermediate shaft is used as well as the front one. 2WD uses the front gear only.
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The penetration point is serious - when repairing previously patched components my first questuin is "Can I remove that patch with a hammer & chisel" - and often I can - which isn't as it should be.
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Solid are 3/16 diameter of various lengths.
Crossmembers seem to be something bigger - may be 1/4 in but as that's 6.35mm a 6.5mm drill shuld remove them. I use 1/4 in bolts.
Blind (pop) rivets are 3/16 or 4.8mm x generally 10mm - closed type. Some are longer - I use 16mm which seems to do the job.
https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/series2-s3.htm
Stainless washers may cause galvanic corrosion problems in contact with the alloy - ie get it wrong and it'll dismantle itself in a few years.
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I think the manifold coupling may be different. Looks wider - I don't think you'll get bolts with heads through a standard one.
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I think the dark grey was in fact 'Mid Grey'
For S1 colours its worth a search on s1 club website. Body sides vary with age and model - eg some station wagons were built with body coloured sides.
James Taylor's excellent books may help.
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Dingocroft helpfully list them:
https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/paint99.htm
The paint supplier I use recognises the 3 letter codes - eg HCC - but being armed with more info can't help.
Everything is mixed to order. Some vehicle paints are quite nasty to handle . If you've got bare alloy then you should etch prime. It starts to get complicated after that.
If you want something simple good old synthetic paint may be what you're looking for - its used on lorry bodies where its necessary to maintain a wet edge for a long time due to the size. Problem is it tends to go milky after a while - look at older lorries. Dead easy to use - brushes or rolls like household gloss and is soluble in white spirit. Paddocks sell HMG synthetic - HMG is one of the large vehicle paint suppliers (and do things like 2 pack as well)
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Does this mean that the teeth are spinning against each other before finally engaging? If so it may be the drive is sticky - ie the gear isn't flying along its shaft and mechanism as quickly as it should - which could even be due to poor connections. (remember the thing earths to the engine through the end of the case - so if its nicely painted it may insulate - and may do the same if the alloy is corroded.)
If the gear is slipping it may be there's damage to the flywheel teeth - in which case it ain't going to get better.
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Motors are available for the Clayton heater - which may or may not be the same size.
Holden's may know!
https://www.holden.co.uk/c/electrical/heaters_electrical_fans/heaters_parts
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May be worth having a look at the s3 optional equipment catalogue. I wonder where that can be found?
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I don't think metal brake clips are considered acceptable now - and this may well have started during the S3 run. I think my T reg one had them.
It also had no T piece for the front brakes - both pipes coming from the PDWA. This was the 'Optional' servo which I think was compulsory on diesels.
My X reg 109 (originally petrol) may well have been different and may have had a PDWA with one fewer pipe - and a T piece?
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There should be a square headed plug in the middle of the back face of the transfer box - towards the lower edge. Fill it through there until the oil flows out. Its the same place as later ones - but has a smaller plug.
80in (but not the first) have a level plug on the side - in the region of the engine mount - nice when the thing's on the bench but in the vehicle its muddled up with the handbrake mechanism.
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Its galling to go to the trouble of finding something you think is better - then end up using the Britpart one!
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I'd have though adversely affected meant things like putting the brakes on cause it to dim, or the indicators made it flash - you know - usual bad earth problems which make it look as its haunted.
As a matter of interest I checked my 03 Focus estate last night - and the fog light operates on both main and dip beam
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The various small parts of the S3 clutch have part numbers and aren't very expensive. The plastic cup in the fork which sits on the ball can wear through can can be replaced. I think the feeble plastic link may be to hold the thing together during assembly or while assembled components were being moved around the factory - but again it costs little and I'd rather not have to dismantle a clutch again. Much the same goes for the spring but that does keep the arm in place on the ball.
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An Elring gasket will be the same whoever you buy it from. The 2.25 diesel one seems to have multiple applications - and its worth looking carefully at the torque figures as set out by Elring - which I think you'll find are tighter than Rover's
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Its probably to provide for expansion - which can cause manifolds to crack. This is why many manifold fixings (like 2 inner combined ones on the LR 4 cylinder petrol) are lugs cast into the manifold and cast steel clamps to secure the manifold - and allow it to expand and contract.
If its a petrol the register of the manifold on the head is controlled by dowels - and the exhaust is rigidly fixd to the inlet at the centre - form which it will expand outwards.
When re-fixing used manifolds its always a good idea to make sure that the movement isn't restricted by rust in the bolt holes - ie clean them out thoroughly.
Clutch problems
in Series Forum
Posted
Pipework is correct - as are the cylinders. Brake cylinder with nut on the end is a CB (Compression barrel) cylinder, clutch cylinder is a CV cylinder. They do the same job, Rover liked them so much in the mid 60's they fitted one of each - then all CV later on.
Bleeding isn't easy due to angles meaning air is trapped. There are instructions in the workshop manual which even suggest raising the front of the vehicle till the cylinder is level,