secondjeremy
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Posts posted by secondjeremy
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Could be that nothing is better than your existing fuel tank gauze. Its common to run without them.
If your Series land Rover is wired as standard its unlikely that the fuse could be the cause of problems as the lights are unfused. Usual culprits are bad earth - and corrosion between the bulb holder cap and the lens unit. The bulb circuit is from one of the solder terminals on the base to the cap which must therefor be earthed.
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Make sure you've done any welding necessary around the rear of the chassis before fitting the tank!
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7/16 BSF nuts are used somewhere on later vehicles - and are readily obtainable form Britpart (seem fine) and others. I think the early U bolts are 7/16 BSF - but they tend to be nylocks.
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Check the realy arms are TIGHT - they often come loose. Relay needs oil - and should be smooth and not sticky when the ball joints are off. They're often siezed and have no oil. Tracking is very important as well. If its out the thing will steer badly.
When I bought my 109 I was so frightened about driving it (MOT was a few days old!) that I abandoned it at home and drove it to my workshop at 6am on Sunday morning. When I sold it the steering was nice, light and true - which was only due to adjustement and lubrication.
Also checking that the hub swivels are free and haven't siezed.
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Should pull 4000RPM - which for a LWB is about 65 - my 109 would - I didn't keep it there for long but 55 or so was a comfortable cruise wihout overdrive.
Steering should be light and surprisingly positive - even on 235x85x16 tyres. It shouldn't wander or be difficult to get round corners.
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Inside the head you'll find that there are 2 nearly separate mechanisms - the speed indicator - which is basically a rotating magnet trying to pull an aluminum disc against a spring and the odometer mechanism which has a reduction gear which drives the drums which give the reading. The drums are retained by a complicated cut-out flat spring.
Needle behaving oddly - usually a drive problem. The top end may not be engaged in the head properly (or may have dropped out especially if its that clip-on thing which often breaks. Bottom (gearbox) end should be square - there were many cables floating around with an oval end which was supposed to last about 1 mile.
The drive gear at the back of the transfer box on a Series box is pinched (or clamped if you prefer the term) when the output flange is tightened up. Often the flange works loose - when I had this on my LWB the thing would read OK when cold and at low revs - then would drop back at higher speed. Tightening the nut cured it.
However your 101 probably has the early Range Rover transmission - so its different.
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12 degrees advance is a bit excessive.
Are you sure its been shaved to 8:1 and not more? UK spec 2's and 2a's were 7:1, later 2a's (I think) and 3's were 8:1 as standard. Recommeded ignition timing is TDC when using 90 octane fuel and 3 degrees AFTER TDC when using 85 octane for an 8:1 engine and a 7:1 engine is different. Special instructions relate to emmission controlled engines - but seem to start form about 6 degrees AFTER TDC.
Google may help you find a copy of the S3 workshop manual (covers both 7:1 and 8:1 engines and emmission controls.)
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What's the vehicle? What are you trying to achieve?
Are you re-wiring using a new loom?
For standard vehicles the only relays that I can think of were a relay in the horn circuit for S2's or 2a's fitted with the optional twin horns (Wow) and some on S3's and military lightweights to get the brake test light to come on when the key was turned. If its a standard vehicle with standard components it doesn't need any.
Lights may benefit from one - but remember the standard setup doesn't have any fuses so won't fail by reason of a fuse blowing. When I've fitted relays in the light circuit I've used one for each filament and fused each one. (Fused relay bases are easy to get and use) The reason for using them is the dipswitch mounted in the centre of the steering wheel on early S1's and the sheer length of wiring on a S3 together with the steering column mounted wand control.
Basically if you're running any device that's going to use a heavy current its worth using a relay - especially if its sharing the ignition switch and its wiring.
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Have you found the very fine filter under the inlet of the Weber carburettor? Its the brass nut you can see just under the inlet - and can be removed without taking anything else off.ee
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The 5 bearing engine has re-inforcing ribs cast into the base of the crankcase. They're quite distincive once you've seen them. The definitive point is that one or more runs diagonally. There are no diagonal ribs on a 3 bearing engine.
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Be careful when using adapted tools in die grinders - some of them go very fast - like more than twicce the speed of a 4.5 in angle grinder - or 10 to 20 times the speed of an electric drill. The problem is that things like grinder discs are safe to about 12,000 rpm (stated on the disc) and not safe to the speeds a die grinder can achieve. Same goes for things like wire brushes - steel bristles hurtling all over the place isn't a good idea.
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Change the detent springs as a form of amusement - it won't make any difference.
Try tightening the nut on the back of the mainshaft. Its the castle nut visible with the transfer box top cover removed. It should be done up to 100 lb ft torque (recommended by Fairey when fitting overdrive.) Use a new locker - many are cut off-centre or something so that the legs don't engage properly with the splines in the gear and this may impede the locking ability by allowing the washer to move further inside the gear under use and allow the nut to loosen. Otherwise its a synchro/engagement teeth problem.
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No is the simple answer.
Spoked wheel fits with a pinchbolt across the base of the wheel boss fitting into a groove on the steering column in the middle of the splined section. The later solid spoked wheel fits with a nut on the top of the column.
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Be careful the thing doesn't creep upwards. I was under a S2a with a chassis that has been entusiastically welded (superficially looks wonderful) and I can just about get a piece of paper between the clutch housing and the crossmember.
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All 80in Land Rovers have the Tracta joints - even though the free-wheel drive was deleted in 1951 before the end of the 1600's.
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If all is well it should produce a generous flow of fuel without much effort.
If it isn't pumping something is wrong - like the tank filter is blocked, the pipe between the tank and the pump is damaged or something like that.
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The swivels are similar to a S3 setup but not quite the same. Your 80in has the steering arms on top of the swivels as did the S1 and the S2. S2a's and S3's have them on the bottim so if you want railco bushes you have to fit the pin to the top arm.
The later swivels have bigger studs. Note that some of the studs used on your vehicle are different. They have an oversize middle section and are essential to get a good fix for the arms.
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If you only have single speed wipers you may be able to use one of these:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1130/toggle-switch-off-on-mom
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Who knows what a google can turn up if asked to find a S3 parts book.
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If you mean that the outer cushions sit in a square frame - this is part of the adjustable seat mechanism - and the centre seat simply has the same runners or brackets as are used on those vehicles having non - adjustable seats.
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S2/2a gearbox goes straight in a S1 and connects up to the existing clutch linkage - I've done the job.
If you think the weight of a S1 clutch pedal is too much - try a weaker pull-off spring - it makes quite a difference.
There's no advantage to the hydraulic clutch mechanism unless you enjoy mending the hydraulics. I'll never understand why they fitted it when they could have fixed the pivot in the S2 pendant pedal and made it operate the clutch directly with a simple crank and pull rod. (Or a cable but they weren't around in 1958)
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Almost certainly RTC springs.
Some say its possible to replace them in situ just by taking the top of the gearbox off - I've never done it and don't think its easy. Somewhere on the internet there are instructions - may be Series 2 club.
These springs get tired and flat after 20 years or so. I've found Bearmach ones work nicely, Britpart ones aren't quite the right shape and gave an apalling change.
If the spring falls out 3rd - 4th will work but the spring will float around in the oil and can get between the gear teeth - which will damage them if you're lucky or snap the layshaft (late 2a) or possibly remove teeth (S3)
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The late 2a's used a push to break switch maounted at the top of the brake pedal for the brake light switch.
Otherwise many cars like Citroens use push to break switches - you may be able to find one in an independent motor parts shop.
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A number of Land Rover's metric conversions as printed alongside imperial dimensions on the chassis diagram as printed in the workshop manual are NOT correct.
And some S3 diagrams show the engine crossmember in the wrong place or something. (Took me about 1/2 hour to rumble why I couldn't get a couple of measurements right. Haynes was RIGHT!)
Brake master cylinder compatibility on a S3
in Series Forum
Posted
I think the mounting holes in the flange for a CB cylinder are vertical and those for a dual cylinder are horizontal.
More use than a PDWA would be a reservoir cap incorporating a level switch. Brakes seldom fail from major leaks - the usual problem is slow leaks past seals and the level switch would alert you of the situation.