robthebob Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I had to take the head off to check the gasket. In the process I have some doubts. I hope you guys can help. if you want to see pics, here are some: http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/ Thanks. 1- with head off, how do I rotate the engine (to clean cylinders) and get it back exactly to where it is now to be able to refit head with camshaft in the same position? 2- and how do I rotate camshaft to get back to the same position? 3- When taking EGR off, what to do of the blue pipe lines? see photo http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_pro...617_large.html 4- And the EGR cooler water hoses, can they be connect together once the cooler off? 5- The exhaust manifold had 2 gaskets fitted. Should I just put one new one? Check photo at link and following. There is much corrosion on the manifold wall, would this be ok anyway? http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_pro...154_large.html 6- One of the manifold studs unscrewed from the block. How do I fix it back in? http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_pro...121_large.html 7- Any advice on how to clean cylinders and head from rust and deposits? check photo at link and following: http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_pro...828_large.html Thank you all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Before you started taking the engine apart you should have bought a set of timing pins to insert in the required locations. The first in the lower bell housing and the second in the top of the cylinder head. 1. You can rotate the engine over using the front pulley, just be careful of the chain getting caught/bunched up. 2. Can't quite remember, but there could be some flats on the camshaft to use a spanner or adjustable to rotate it. It will jump round as it's still trying to push the valves down. 3. They can just be blanked off. 4. Yes. 5. I think that is one gasket as it's sort of a crush gasket. 6. Use two nuts tightened together to wind it in. 7. Carefully clean cylinder bores with a rag, but if they are badly rusted or dirty the sump and pistons may need removing. The cylinder head can be stripped down and cleaned in a parts washer. There are good how to guides on cylinder head installation as well as the Haynes manual. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerrymc123 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 (edited) I'd be tempted into using soda-blasting to clean it up. Removing the viscous fan to expose more of the main pulley nut will aid turning the camshaft using a socket and rachet. Edited September 13, 2017 by gerrymc123 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robthebob Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 21 hours ago, steve200TDi said: Before you started taking the engine apart you should have bought a set of timing pins Yes, of course, I read about it, but to get the tools to Haiti takes time, so in the meanwhile I have a bolt as camshaft blocker and nothing in the crankshaft hoping it wont move until I figure out exactly how to rotate it and get it back where it is now. In fact, as many even in other forums don't get, is that I am aware that there is a strict connection between cam and crank and I need to move them separately for cleaning purposes and thenget the to the sync position once again. 3- blanked off = ? do I close them ? how? what are those for, do you know? The Haynes defenderdiesel and TD5 is in the list. I really thank you very much for the answers. I will study the other member's answer on how to sync cam and crank... didn't quite get it at first glance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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