Dan D90 Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 I have an annoying problem with my TD5 defender. It has developed a starting issue after changing the injector loom, fuel filter and fuel filter housing (broken bold bracket). The loom was changed due to the usual oil contamination to the ECU. Prior to the change it started first time every time. After the change it would start fine cold but after 20 mins of driving it would randomly cut out or fail to start after the engine was turned off. Every time this occurred it would start again normally if I left it overnight. My garage was convinced it was a bad fuel pump so it was changed along with the injector seals. It now no longer cuts out while driving, however the problem when restarting still persists!. I can start it in the morning first time, after driving around 10 miles, turning the engine off for 10 minutes and starting it again it will take a lot of turning over before it still slowly fires back up again, when it dose judger back to life quite a bit of white smoke is produced. Sometimes it will restart and run for a couple of seconds before cutting out, then I’m back to cranking it again with the accelerator to the floor. Once its running again all seems normal. If I stop and start the engine after short runs this issue occurs 80% of the time. Since the defender is a bit of a Frankenstein (disco td5 and ECU) my mechanic does not seem to think the readings from the ECU can be trusted. It is going back to them next week but it is starting to feel like I’m just changing parts and not fixing the issue. Why would it start first time cold then struggle to restart? Any advice on what might be causing the issue or a recommendation of a defender specialist on the Warwickshire area would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 A guess would be air in the system... There is a little air bleed valve (part number WJN500110) that may have been disturbed when you changed the fuel filter housing.... Needs to be in the right hole and fitted correctly... This is known to affect warm starting. Have a look here.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan D90 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Hi Freak, I have read this in my search for a cure, it seems logical to me also, I think I will just buy one and change it given the cost. Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan D90 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 I had a couple of minutes today so I decided to take the pipes of the filter housing to see what we have. Not quite what I expected! The pipe closest to the chassis has nothing it in & the pipe closest to the road had a none return rubber nipple: I was expecting to see the air bleed valve where the rubber non-return is. Are these the wrong way around and I am missing the air bleed valve? The workshop manual does not seem to mention the rubber non-return nipple. Does anyone know for 100% which pipe the rubber nipple should go in? I would swap it around and test but I'm worried I might do some major damage! Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Errrr..... Many years since I changed mine ! Did these parts get taken out when the housing was switched ? I would be tempted to go with book and fit the new valve in the space of the orange thing If you can purge ok and it starts and runs, then take it for a run and warm it up. If it doesn’t purge, doesn’t run then time to re-think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan D90 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 I’m defo going to put the air new air bleed valve into the connection highlighted by the red arrow. I believe its purpose is to let air out of the system and back to the tank, logically it would not do that anywhere else. However, where to refit the orange non return valve? I’m guessing in either positions 2 (blue) or 3 (orange) below, it would not interfere with the travel of fuel in either of these places: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Air bleed valve goes on no. 1 Non return valve with the red boot goes on no. 2 (those numbers are your numbers) This video is helpful (except that he fits the non-return valve without the red boot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan D90 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 Update ! Fitted the air bleed vale and non return as Sleaze stated above and the issue is now reoslved ! Im also shoocked at what a diffrence it has made to the drive . She is now a much smother drive at low speed / revs. Thanks for all the help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Great news and thanks for letting us know it was the solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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