JL45 Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 So I think I've narrowed down a leak coming into the passenger footwell. There are a few areas I'm going to seal and retest but I think its coming in from behind the heater box. How difficult is it to remove? I see a couple of bolts at the bottom but any hidden ones I should look out for? Once off, I assume some commercial closed cell foam will do the trick? Maybe some silicone to be extra safe. Thanks. '92 200TDI Defender 110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 2 bolts secure top of heater, look above heater in engine bay, may have to push some wires out of the way, they go into rivnuts in bulkhead IIRC. Don't forget to disconnect the control cables, motor wiring & hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Before you go to the trouble of removing and stripping the heater box to tackle the matrix, check the screen wash hoses haven’t split or chafed, or just hardened and started leaking at a union. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL45 Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 I sealed up some areas and re-tested with the hose and looking through the foot vent I can see it dripping from the heater rubber that bumps up against the bulkhead. So maybe it wasnt seated properly when I did a bulkhead swap a few years back. Only drips on heavy rain days which I simulated a deluge with the hose pointed at the lower part of the dash air vent. Plan is to unbolt and hopefully move it out of the way to get to the seal. Possible? Or am I looking at having to remove the entire thing? And how the heck did the water get back behind the heater with the bonnet closed and the bulkhead channel moving the water to the wings? Water finds a way I guess or maybe a spot I can seal up first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Try a smear of silicone around the joint of that heater housing gasket. Any gaps in that will let quite a bit of water in but also ruins heater efficiency - one of the most common complaints about Defenders. Unfortunately, you may have to remove the heater to do it properly anyway, so a new foam gasket would be wise. If you prepare some bungs to stick in the hoses as you remove them, it should save a lot of antifreeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL45 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 Thats what I figured. Best to do it proper and remove it. Can I make a foam gasket? I cant seem to find a part number and can only find the rubber gasket not the foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 You could, but it might be fiddly. It’s quite thick, but not an even thickness around its top and bottom, if I recall correctly. The Britpart seals are reputed to be too hard and won’t allow a good fit. No surprises there,I’m sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 7 hours ago, JL45 said: Thats what I figured. Best to do it proper and remove it. Can I make a foam gasket? I cant seem to find a part number and can only find the rubber gasket not the foam. The 2 foam gaskets are STC952 heater to bulkhead MRC8378 air intake duct to blower motor housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL45 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 Perfect. Thanks for the help. Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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