Doorknob Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 Hi, Unfortunately, whilst working on my dash the rubber moulded connector which connects the main loom to the starter (thus also the + battery terminal) broke. It’s not solderable, because 2 of the wires broke right in the connector… So my question, what would be a proper replacement for this? Most connectors I found were either for small wires. And should I keep max amperage in mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 I can't picture it - do you have a pic? Generally any connector rated for the amperage / wire size will work as a replacement for any other, depends if you want to keep it genuine or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorknob Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 I’m not near my Defender currently, so quick Google search came to this picture of this post below. Im fairly certain its the connector on the right. Which has the 2 brown leads going to the starter and the red white lead for the cranking of the engine. Does this help? If not, I’ll grab a picture myself tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 That picture is more than good enough. You won't find an identical replacement as they're moulded on to the loom, but any suitably rated connector(s) will suffice, even individual spade terminals will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorknob Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: That picture is more than good enough. You won't find an identical replacement as they're moulded on to the loom, but any suitably rated connector(s) will suffice, even individual spade terminals will do. Ah okay thanks a lot! I have the superseal type connectors (don't think they're the original ones but still) with a rated current of 12A, so that would be enough? I felt like more current would go through the brown wire, but I'm really not sure haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 2 hours ago, Doorknob said: I felt like more current would go through the brown wire, but I'm really not sure haha Worth checking, I have a feeling those brown wires could be the main feed from the battery / starter post which LR in their wisdom do not fuse , those power everything on the car so yes they'll be taking some current and I wouldn't use superseal for them... I'd also stick a ~30A fuse in each wire to make things a bit safer. I replaced mine as my connector suffered a similar fate to yours, I used one bigger wire into a fusebox on the bulkhead (I was adding electric fans too so it gave me a nice easy pickup), the two spare fuses now fuse the two brown wires going into the dash: You can see I just put the starer wire on a regular spade connector. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorknob Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 17 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Worth checking, I have a feeling those brown wires could be the main feed from the battery / starter post which LR in their wisdom do not fuse , those power everything on the car so yes they'll be taking some current and I wouldn't use superseal for them... I'd also stick a ~30A fuse in each wire to make things a bit safer. I replaced mine as my connector suffered a similar fate to yours, I used one bigger wire into a fusebox on the bulkhead (I was adding electric fans too so it gave me a nice easy pickup), the two spare fuses now fuse the two brown wires going into the dash: You can see I just put the starer wire on a regular spade connector. Ah okay! This actually helps a lot, thanks! I'm then also going for a distribution block with 2 separate fuses for each of the brown wires, because yes, it is the main feed from the battery then to starter. The other wires, I'll be using bullet/spade connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 43 minutes ago, Doorknob said: I'm then also going for a distribution block with 2 separate fuses for each of the brown wires, because yes, it is the main feed from the battery then to starter. Wrong way round - the battery is connected to the starter with a bg heavy cable, so to save wire LR pick up the main feed for the rest of the vehicle (2 brown wires) from the starter post. So those brown wires don't power the starter, but they do power everything else on the vehicle (lights, heater, ignition, etc.) so when you add that up it's a fair bit of current. I think I fused them at 20 or 30A each so that neither wire should be able to catch fire if it shorts to anything behind the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted June 28, 2023 Share Posted June 28, 2023 It wouldn't be a simple job but you could replace that connector with the MGF/300 disco under bonnet fuse box. I fitted one on my ibex to get rid of the fusable links in a 200 disco loom. It also gives extra fuse options but from memory will likely need wires soldering/connecting together which kind of defeats the point. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorknob Posted July 31, 2023 Author Share Posted July 31, 2023 Been a while, but thought I should update it in case someone searches for this in the future. I extended replaced the 2 brown wires to a fuse box, where 2 30A fuses make them live happily. This way, it's also future proof, and I can add things to the fusebox when I like. Thanks @FridgeFreezer! @miketomcat is a nice idea as well, but saw it too late to be honest. The other wires from the rubber moulded connector I have not extended yet, to be honest because I don't even know where they lead... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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