Fitting a basic 2" Lift to a 90

[Mark Jenkins]

Following on from Les's shock mount repair post:

You will need:

4 new shocks

4 new springs

Set of new brake hoses

2 new turret rings

Rear

Jack vehicle up and support chassis with axle stands at point shown.

Remove tyres.

The original setup

Remove the shocks from their mountings and make any necessary repairs to the mounts at this point.

The old shock, with damaged bushes. One of the rear shocks was blown completely.

Undo the two bolts at the base of the spring to remove the spring retaining clip. Mine were seized so had to be heated before they would give up.

Once the clip is removed the jack on the correct side has to be removed to allow the old spring to droop. By standing on the hub the spring could be forced out.

Caution - we were also replaing the brake hoses, so if you were not intending to do this, don't damage the existing hose.

We also removed the spring base plate, cleaned it and fitted new bolts to the retaining clip.

We managed to get the new spring in with two pairs of hands, without using spring compressors. I am currently using NRC4304 heavy duty rears all round. Soft but cheap. Fine on the motorway but wallowy on country roads at speed.

Fit the new shocks - (in this case, Procomps +2"). Sorry no photos of the rears for some reason. Release the packing wire slowly so as to allow the shock to expand into its lower mounting hole without the hassle of having to compress it manually.

New rear brake line - just one, in the case of my truck on rear drums (1989).

Refit wheels, remove jacks and stands.

Bleed rear brakes.

Front

Repeat the lift at the rear in the equivalent position.

To access the top of the shock turrets, on the passenger side it was necessary to remove the air filter box (my DT engine) and on the driver's side we removed the expansion tank.

The top bolts were rusted solid - you can see the accumulated crud around the shock. In this case, undo the shock at the lower mounting point, undo the turret ring bolts (which sheared off) and withdraw the shock and turret up through the engine bay. THe bolts can then be ground off in a safe place and the old shock removed.

At this point, snip the old brake hoses and pinch them closed to prevent fluid loss. The jack can then be withdrawn and the spring removed as described earlier.

Now fit the new turret ring, without doing the bolts up, then the new spring. Once the spring is seated (again you may need spring compressors) you can fit the new shock and then lower the turret onto the turret ring bolts.

Fasten the turret ring bolts:

Fit the new brake line and repeat on the other side.

Refit wheels and bleed brakes.

Looked like this at the tyre fitters:

And looks like this now:

(yes prob a bit high at the front)

Tyres are Insa Turbo Special Track 235/85 R16

Hope that is some use to someone.

Any errors in this posting are mine alone.

For the purposes of credit, "We" really means "Les" and I took the pictures and passed spanners.

MJ.

[q-rover]

When I did my RRC (similar procedure)

I also used the following parts

Land Rover Genuine Parts Rubberized Spring Isolator (ANR2938)

Land Rover Genuine Parts Rubberized Shock Tower Securing Ring (RBC100111)

Bung a couple of the spacers in the rear (1 top/ 1 bottom) and should lift it 1/2"

[darthdicky]

I've got the same on mine and found that some 1" spacers under the rear springs make it more level, and thats with a heavy winch on the front.

Rides pretty well, articulates very well, leans a fair bit in the corners!