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darthdicky last won the day on September 24 2015

darthdicky had the most liked content!

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About darthdicky

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    "Brian May" Rock God

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    Land Rovers and Off Roading, Digital Photography, Winch Challenges, Not breaking my 90!

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  1. Thanks Ralph, it looks like they're No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws but that thread also shows them being run through with a tap and the countersinking not quite going far enough, so I'm not sure if it's the original size? Might get hold of some anyway on the off chance...
  2. Having spent quite some time trying to remove it, I've decided that the Delta tek bearing still spins freely and the end plate is not that corroded so I'm just going to leave it be. It's quite quick to get apart and can be refurbished at another point in the future if I really want to smarten it up or the bearing starts to seize up. Next challenge - any good tips for removing the mainshaft bearing? Whilst mine still moves freely it's quite gritty and slightly rusty and I've bought a replacement, I just can't get it out! Don't want to bash it too hard as I don't want to crack or bend the c
  3. And to anyone considering doing this themselves, at this stage my advice is don't do it! It may be possible to bend the plastic/metal track in slightly at the top and bottom just enough to stop it rattling? I wish I'd tried that first before I pulled it all apart.
  4. Can anyone confirm what size the screws are that hold the frame together? Have mangled mine getting them out so would like to replace the ones that have come out. Seem to be 8mm long, thought I may have seen someone mention they were M3 countersunk but I can't seem to find that post again?
  5. Maybe it's just me or maybe Truck cab windows are different, but I'm having a nightmare doing this on mine. There seems to be a plastic/metal track that the windows run in and that's too narrow for the Woolies replacement to fit in. I've managed to remove it from the top half after a few hours battling with it, and I'm not looking forward to doing the lower half. Once this has been removed the Woolies trim does seem to slide in reasonably neatly once the window has been split in two - I'm not sure if it will just drop in as that may be easier than trying to get it round the corners. Photo
  6. And final question for today, should this end plate just lift off, or is there a hidden circlip or something holding it on? It all turns smoothly so I don't want to whack it too hard, but I'd like to get the grey part off to clean it up and possibly paint it. It's not just lifting off so I've soaked it in WD40, tapped with a mallet a few times but doesn't seem to be budging yet...
  7. Having cleaned up the mainshaft a bit with some wire wool, I think it needs a little more cleaning up on the part where the brake fits to avoid it corroding on again. Probably a daft question but what sort of dremel fitting would clean this up nicely without damaging the metal underneath? In a similar vein, what would be slightly more abrasive and take a tiny bit off the edge of the round gear and/or shim? It's got a few nicks in it where it's been forced in/out before so the round shim/washer doesn't fit on easily. I just want to get it smooth and round again so the shim fits back on. It
  8. So I've finally found some more enthusiasm to finish the job, having bought a pile of bits from Gigglepin last year and then lost interest and put it away in a box. It's all apart and having cleaned things up a bit, the two lower gears have clearly been rubbing together at some point. Not sure whether that may be in the past if someone put it together with one the wrong way around? Or do they all end up doing this as there's nothing really to stop them rubbing? Don't think it's terminal, it all worked fine in the past and the drum slides onto the main gear fine.
  9. Exmoor Trim told me that they are pretty much identical as they use the same frame, the only big difference is the headrest as you say. Have a look at their website and you can see the difference in foam shape between the two types. Do try them out before you make a change though, I much prefer the shape of the older ones which to me feel like you sit "in" them with much better side support. The newer Puma ones I feel you sit "on", sit slightly closer to the wheel (especially in a truck cab) and there's no side-to-side support in the backrest. I've taken the newer ones out of mine and mov
  10. It seems prices have gone up in the last 10 years - this trim is now £7.50/metre! Can anyone confirm how much is needed for a truck cab? It looks like the part the window slides in is 1.9m, as I'm assuming the rubber end part isn't touched at all? Therefore 4m should do both channels? Richard
  11. I've got the MXS 5 one for the 90 and a smaller one for the motorbike and I'm really pleased with them. I've still had to replace batteries which were old (bike was probably original at 10 years and one of the ones in the 90 was probably 10 too) but they have certainly lasted longer with the chargers on them. Would definitely recommend them. If you're just looking for a trickle charger which will turn itself back on after a power cut could you use one of the CTEK motorbike ones? Probably don't need 5amp charging for that kind of use?
  12. Hi Tony, Not sure if it's the answer you're looking for but page 111 from the manual here: http://landrover.narod.ru/DEFENDER/TGVWorkshop_Manual.pdf may help? Richard
  13. Fab video, what drone were you using? Having done the NC500 on a bike it's definitely the way to do it as overtaking traffic is so much easier (when the motorhomes don't deliberately try to hold you up). Would quite happily go and do it again. Rich
  14. It’s similar but different! It will fit in a PCL XF (possibly the same as a “euro”?) fitting but doesn’t seal properly. Why it has to be similar but different I really don’t know
  15. Don't bin the electronic one, I had to pay about £75 for a new one when mine was playing up! Worth putting up for sale somewhere. Rich
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