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darthdicky

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darthdicky last won the day on September 24 2015

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About darthdicky

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    "Brian May" Rock God

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    http://photobucket.com/albums/v119/darthdicky/
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  • Location
    Exeter

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Land Rovers and Off Roading, Digital Photography, Winch Challenges, Not breaking my 90!

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  1. Thanks, the first injector came out easily and it's clear that TDC is when the crank key is vertical, so there is no "flywheel" locking slot on my vehicle so it just has to be done by eye on the crank. I've changed the belt again and on a brief drive it felt a little more lively and held speed up a hill better than it had been, so hopefully it's an improvement which I can work on with some other bits I want to check out. Richard
  2. I’ll see if I can get an injector out later today then, I think it must be when the crank key is vertical as otherwise I don’t think it would run at all, so it must just be a tooth out. Disappointing is how I’d describe it at the moment, it’s driveable but can’t hold speed going up hills where I think it should have the torque. Off road it’s fine, but again keeps kicking down to first when I want it to hold a higher gear. TC locks up at 45mph in high. Richard
  3. I think that may be the way to go, but I've never done that before and don't have a dial gauge - may have to go shopping tomorrow... It's got an Ashcroft "monster" box which I think is an HP24 with a 4.0 torque converter.
  4. Thanks, I've got that and followed its instructions but it doesn't seem to mention autos - only a flywheel housing. It does show the crank key pointing upwards which makes me think perhaps I should ignore the holes and just go on that?
  5. TGV (basically a 300) auto - it runs smoothly as is but is very heavy on fuel (16-20mpg), gets hot on the slightest hill and really feels like it's down on power - which I think points to the timing being retarded? The timing belt was changed in January and the crank lined up by eye with the key vertically so I've been wondering if it's a tooth out. I've since found out there should be a slot that lines up in the flywheel/flexplate, however having found two different holes in there neither seems to be lining up correctly. I've found this photo which seems to show what I've got. If I line up the smaller hole with the larger of the two holes, the pin doesn't go in as it's misaligned - it's too high/low for it to fit in as it should. If this is aligned so I can see it through the hole, the crank key is at about 1 o'clock If I line up the longer slot then the pin goes in but the crank key is at 2-3 o'clock and the injection pump and cam pulleys way off where they should be, which doesn't seem right, given that it runs at the moment. Could it really be that far out, or am I chasing marks that are possibly in the wrong place? If so, how can I check that the crank is in the right position?
  6. Thanks both, there was no way it was coming out with the sill bar in place so I took that off earlier and managed to get the tank out. Bit of rustproofing and painting to do tomorrow and hopefully the new tank will go back in fairly easily... Richard
  7. Any tips on getting the old tank out? I've removed the front bracket and all bolts and it moves back and forth fine, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance along the sill/seatbox for it to rotate and drop out? Surely I don't need to remove the sill rail as well? Not so worried about bashing the old one to get it out, but I want to be able to get the new one in without bending it! Rich
  8. Looks like an interesting project! I find air-con is also useful for pulling moisture out of the air if you get into the vehicle wet and then find that every window mists up instantly, although admittedly I've never used the LR air-con so it may not make that much difference there! Rich
  9. Any idea what other works/parts are required to fit one of those Daan?
  10. Have to say I'm impressed with a work colleagues Rubicon - factory lockers, BFG MT's on 17" wheels, swaybar disconnects etc. and you can still bolt all sorts of stuff to them. Only the 2.0 petrol but 270bhp and it goes well, although it doesn't sound as good as the old 6's. Really feels like the sort of vehicle I think the Defender should be, but I'm interested to see what the end product actually looks like as I don't think LR are as daft as some think. Rich
  11. My tank is leaking so I'm looking to get a replacement, has anything changed in the last few years? Any particular ones to go for or avoid? Richard
  12. Yep both strengthened bars are straight still but I am wondering whether the collapsible link in the steering column is still as it was? Poor photo attached, I’ll compare with some other tomorrow and see if it looks right. Doesn’t seem to be any play in it though. richard
  13. Hit a hidden bump pretty hard on a recent trip out and my steering wheel is now about a quarter rotation off where it used to be. I’m reasonably sure this is in the box rather than the splines rotating or anything else, and I’m pretty sure it happened on my old 90 after hitting a tree root on a lane. Don’t think it did any serious damage then but the box started leaking shortly after and it got changed a few months later before the MOT so I don’t know about long term effects. Is this a common occurrence and nothing much to worry about? Seems to drive fine still and goes lock to lock without any problems, I’m just trying to understand what part of it jumps and whether I should be getting hold of another steering box as a spare? Richard
  14. There's some lanes around that area, and some nice ones over Dartmoor way.
  15. Check the earthing too, mine used to to do similar and I think it was cured by putting a new earth strap from the battery box to the chassis.
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