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darthdicky last won the day on September 24 2015

darthdicky had the most liked content!

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About darthdicky

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    "Brian May" Rock God

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    Land Rovers and Off Roading, Digital Photography, Winch Challenges, Not breaking my 90!

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  1. Or the smaller Anderson connectors to the front of the seatbox - the 50amp ones rather than the enormous 350amp ones
  2. CTEK do a couple of bits which solve this, depending how neatly you want to fit them: https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/connect-eyelet-m10 https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/indicator-panel-1-5m
  3. I like the sound of it, good to have some competition in the marketplace.
  4. PS. Mine didn't have the exhaust silencer and was quite noisy on full blast, but not too bad once it had settled down. However I never slept with it going, I just used it to defrost and get things warm in the morning. The fuel pump also made quite a loud clicking noise which would be annoying at night. If I were to use it on a camper I'd try to soundproof the pump a bit more and install the exhaust silencer. It looks like the newer models have an improved/quieter pump anyway.
  5. I mounted my D2 behind the passenger seat in a 90. The seat still goes back enough, it's out of the way and protected by the bulkhead and the outlet hose went up and mounted to the bulkhead so you could aim it forwards or backwards, or warm (roast on full blast!) your hands on it when you got in. Exhaust ran down behind the rear outrigger which was out of the way and protected. Fuel tee-ed off one of the fuel hoses, I can't remember which. I got a full unopened kit second hand and it was easy (even for me) to fit.
  6. If anyone is having similar problems, a further improvement was found when the tappets were adjusted - they were so loose that I think both valves were open at the same time, so half the power was disappearing out the exhaust and giving high EGT's. These have dropped by 200c on some hills and it goes better than it did, although it still isn't quite what I was hoping for. Any other suggestions of things to check when performance seems to just drop off? Makes no difference when the air filter is taken off so that's not restricting anything. Hoses all seem tight and boost at the manifold is around 1.1-1.2 bar. Need to run it around a bit and see whether fuel economy is back into the twenties... Richard
  7. Thanks, the first injector came out easily and it's clear that TDC is when the crank key is vertical, so there is no "flywheel" locking slot on my vehicle so it just has to be done by eye on the crank. I've changed the belt again and on a brief drive it felt a little more lively and held speed up a hill better than it had been, so hopefully it's an improvement which I can work on with some other bits I want to check out. Richard
  8. I’ll see if I can get an injector out later today then, I think it must be when the crank key is vertical as otherwise I don’t think it would run at all, so it must just be a tooth out. Disappointing is how I’d describe it at the moment, it’s driveable but can’t hold speed going up hills where I think it should have the torque. Off road it’s fine, but again keeps kicking down to first when I want it to hold a higher gear. TC locks up at 45mph in high. Richard
  9. I think that may be the way to go, but I've never done that before and don't have a dial gauge - may have to go shopping tomorrow... It's got an Ashcroft "monster" box which I think is an HP24 with a 4.0 torque converter.
  10. Thanks, I've got that and followed its instructions but it doesn't seem to mention autos - only a flywheel housing. It does show the crank key pointing upwards which makes me think perhaps I should ignore the holes and just go on that?
  11. TGV (basically a 300) auto - it runs smoothly as is but is very heavy on fuel (16-20mpg), gets hot on the slightest hill and really feels like it's down on power - which I think points to the timing being retarded? The timing belt was changed in January and the crank lined up by eye with the key vertically so I've been wondering if it's a tooth out. I've since found out there should be a slot that lines up in the flywheel/flexplate, however having found two different holes in there neither seems to be lining up correctly. I've found this photo which seems to show what I've got. If I line up the smaller hole with the larger of the two holes, the pin doesn't go in as it's misaligned - it's too high/low for it to fit in as it should. If this is aligned so I can see it through the hole, the crank key is at about 1 o'clock If I line up the longer slot then the pin goes in but the crank key is at 2-3 o'clock and the injection pump and cam pulleys way off where they should be, which doesn't seem right, given that it runs at the moment. Could it really be that far out, or am I chasing marks that are possibly in the wrong place? If so, how can I check that the crank is in the right position?
  12. Thanks both, there was no way it was coming out with the sill bar in place so I took that off earlier and managed to get the tank out. Bit of rustproofing and painting to do tomorrow and hopefully the new tank will go back in fairly easily... Richard
  13. Any tips on getting the old tank out? I've removed the front bracket and all bolts and it moves back and forth fine, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance along the sill/seatbox for it to rotate and drop out? Surely I don't need to remove the sill rail as well? Not so worried about bashing the old one to get it out, but I want to be able to get the new one in without bending it! Rich
  14. Looks like an interesting project! I find air-con is also useful for pulling moisture out of the air if you get into the vehicle wet and then find that every window mists up instantly, although admittedly I've never used the LR air-con so it may not make that much difference there! Rich
  15. Any idea what other works/parts are required to fit one of those Daan?
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