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darthdicky last won the day on September 24 2015

darthdicky had the most liked content!

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About darthdicky

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    "Brian May" Rock God

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    Land Rovers and Off Roading, Digital Photography, Winch Challenges, Not breaking my 90!

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  1. Yeah the picture doesn’t show the lens frosted like the FirstFour ones either but I thought it’s worth a chance as they’re listed as the flood beam ones. If they’re no good I can send them back or sell them on. I’m sure there are better ones out there but I don’t want to spend a huge amount on something that gets used very rarely!
  2. Having had a look around, these look exactly the same at a quarter of the price so I've just ordered a pair. Hopefully they're just as good for £11! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163598439182 Rich
  3. Cheers Ed, had noticed those on that site and thought they looked about right. What’s the spread of light like?
  4. Has anyone had any further luck with this? I've got 2 x-lites on the back of my 90 and I'm fed up with changing the bulbs which seem to fail regularly. They are useful to have back there, but I'd like a long-lasting replacement! Alternatively, any good source of cheap LED work lights? Rich
  5. I did a LR Experience day in a D5 and was impressed with how it managed the locking rear diff - it would lock at a standstill (or at least the display showed it as locked) to help pull away, and disengage as you turned to help it get round corners. It would disengage going downhill to ensure it didn't push it off course apparently, which seemed a little un-intuitive to me. Certainly worked well though on slippery but solid based ground. It was constantly locking and unlocking as you drove - not like an ARB where you just stick it in for a difficult section and then take it out again. Have to say I was amazed by it's ability (still looks awful though) and I think the new Defender will be a very capable vehicle, it's just a shame it's not anything like the old one. Rich
  6. Or the smaller Anderson connectors to the front of the seatbox - the 50amp ones rather than the enormous 350amp ones
  7. CTEK do a couple of bits which solve this, depending how neatly you want to fit them: https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/connect-eyelet-m10 https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/indicator-panel-1-5m
  8. I like the sound of it, good to have some competition in the marketplace.
  9. PS. Mine didn't have the exhaust silencer and was quite noisy on full blast, but not too bad once it had settled down. However I never slept with it going, I just used it to defrost and get things warm in the morning. The fuel pump also made quite a loud clicking noise which would be annoying at night. If I were to use it on a camper I'd try to soundproof the pump a bit more and install the exhaust silencer. It looks like the newer models have an improved/quieter pump anyway.
  10. I mounted my D2 behind the passenger seat in a 90. The seat still goes back enough, it's out of the way and protected by the bulkhead and the outlet hose went up and mounted to the bulkhead so you could aim it forwards or backwards, or warm (roast on full blast!) your hands on it when you got in. Exhaust ran down behind the rear outrigger which was out of the way and protected. Fuel tee-ed off one of the fuel hoses, I can't remember which. I got a full unopened kit second hand and it was easy (even for me) to fit.
  11. If anyone is having similar problems, a further improvement was found when the tappets were adjusted - they were so loose that I think both valves were open at the same time, so half the power was disappearing out the exhaust and giving high EGT's. These have dropped by 200c on some hills and it goes better than it did, although it still isn't quite what I was hoping for. Any other suggestions of things to check when performance seems to just drop off? Makes no difference when the air filter is taken off so that's not restricting anything. Hoses all seem tight and boost at the manifold is around 1.1-1.2 bar. Need to run it around a bit and see whether fuel economy is back into the twenties... Richard
  12. Thanks, the first injector came out easily and it's clear that TDC is when the crank key is vertical, so there is no "flywheel" locking slot on my vehicle so it just has to be done by eye on the crank. I've changed the belt again and on a brief drive it felt a little more lively and held speed up a hill better than it had been, so hopefully it's an improvement which I can work on with some other bits I want to check out. Richard
  13. I’ll see if I can get an injector out later today then, I think it must be when the crank key is vertical as otherwise I don’t think it would run at all, so it must just be a tooth out. Disappointing is how I’d describe it at the moment, it’s driveable but can’t hold speed going up hills where I think it should have the torque. Off road it’s fine, but again keeps kicking down to first when I want it to hold a higher gear. TC locks up at 45mph in high. Richard
  14. I think that may be the way to go, but I've never done that before and don't have a dial gauge - may have to go shopping tomorrow... It's got an Ashcroft "monster" box which I think is an HP24 with a 4.0 torque converter.
  15. Thanks, I've got that and followed its instructions but it doesn't seem to mention autos - only a flywheel housing. It does show the crank key pointing upwards which makes me think perhaps I should ignore the holes and just go on that?
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