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darthdicky last won the day on September 24 2015

darthdicky had the most liked content!


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    Land Rovers and Off Roading, Digital Photography, Winch Challenges, Not breaking my 90!

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  1. We’re heading from different areas of the country and haven’t decided yet whether to go Friday evening or early Saturday morning yet, we’ll see some of you up there!
  2. Is anyone going this coming weekend? Jon and I are heading up there for a long overdue muck about in the mud
  3. It does seem like a good use of a 3D printer Simon, but I'm not sure if plastic would be flexible enough to fit between the fins unless very precisely made? Rubber may be better perhaps? Unfortunately mine isn't a branded light and I got it second hand so I don't know what make it is or whether there's a market for more of them, so I'm tempted to say it's probably not worth much effort! I'm not worried about heat build up as they are spaced out and I'll only ever switch it on at night when it's not very hot anyway. Want to avoid the other options which seem suggested online which is putting rubber strips or tape along the whole thing which would cause problems with heat. I have just spotted this though, so tempted to order a pack for £9.50 and see if they fit: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/uk/lightbar-isolator-kit.html but shipping is £13.50 Edit: Found them in the UK for £13.89 delivered here: https://www.aj4wdoutfitters.co.uk/product-page/lightbar-isolator-kit-by-front-runner-ligh907 so will see if they work
  4. Has anyone found a good source for something to stop light bars whistling? It seems a common complaint and plenty of cheap plastic things are available in the US, but not over here? https://hidkitpros.com/shop/rubber-windwhistle-isolator-for-led-light-bars/ Just seems to be a small bit of plastic which wedges between the cooling fins and stops them vibrating at motorway speeds. Anyone got a good source or an alternative fix? Richard
  5. I've got a broken forward facing PTO going spare if it would be any use? Broken as in the casing hit a tree stump (nothing to do with my driving!) and cracked it in two...
  6. Not had any problems with mine James and I think Jon or I converted his 90 years ago with no issues either. Just in the process of changing my rear hoses to the same setup at the moment, although they will be cable tied tight to the axle when I’ve finished! All mine were from Llama4x4. I think they also do super long ones which can run down the radius arm rather than flap about like mine do.
  7. Also, pic of fire extinguisher and battery/winch cutouts above
  8. Just found some in the garage and the instructions say you can also use hose clamps to hold them in place, as long as you use the plastic insert part
  9. You can use the small quick fists back to back with the larger ones, which may give a better grip on the bulkhead bar than cable ties? Mine is in the passenger footwell with the battery and winch cutouts above it, will try to remember to get a pic later Richard
  10. Surely if there were any issues with items that were replaced following an accident, then it would be for LR and the insurer to sort out between themselves? I agree it wouldn't be a very nice situation to be stuck in the middle of the two arguing though...
  11. Thanks Paddy, I've ended up re-using my old ones having spent ages trying to find replacements that fitted. A local LR specialist sold me two which were the right thread but too long and he told me they were 3BA. Having bought some more 3BA screws I can confirm they are different to what he sold me and don't fit! Worth noting that the piece that holds it together has two screws in the top half and two in the bottom - so to get it apart you only need to unscrew the top or bottom two on each side. Could have saved some time had I known you don't need to try and undo all of them. My window is now back in again with the Woolies trim pieces in there and seems to allow them to slide nicely but not rattle - although I haven't taken it out for a drive yet. 4m of trim was enough with a little left over, and it wasn't too bad to slide in there with plenty of silicone spray. Horrible, horrible job to get the plastic parts out (which in my case I definitely needed to do - there's no way it would fit with it in there) but I'm glad it's done now.
  12. That's brilliant but in your case would it not be quicker to remove the canvas and hood sticks to fit it in? Or is there a taller roll bar in there which still gets in the way? Having had this problem in the past I got a set of old 16" rims with 205's on and swapped the rear tyres over when I wanted it, but having had a bit of a moment at the end of a long weekend away where I stupidly removed all the wheelnuts on one side before I'd jacked it up and it nearly fell on me, I would recommend a solution that is quick, easy and most of all safe! It also put me off taking it out for shorter trips locally as it was a pain to swap them over. I ended up changing vehicles and the new one just fits as it's a truck cab. Just have to remember to take the CB aerial off first... Rich
  13. Thanks Ralph, it looks like they're No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws but that thread also shows them being run through with a tap and the countersinking not quite going far enough, so I'm not sure if it's the original size? Might get hold of some anyway on the off chance...
  14. Having spent quite some time trying to remove it, I've decided that the Delta tek bearing still spins freely and the end plate is not that corroded so I'm just going to leave it be. It's quite quick to get apart and can be refurbished at another point in the future if I really want to smarten it up or the bearing starts to seize up. Next challenge - any good tips for removing the mainshaft bearing? Whilst mine still moves freely it's quite gritty and slightly rusty and I've bought a replacement, I just can't get it out! Don't want to bash it too hard as I don't want to crack or bend the casing. Wondering if drilling a hole through the centre and then using a hacksaw to get to the edge might do it?
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