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Time for a new crossmember


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Borrowed a welder so I could put a patch in the crossmember.

Cut out hole

Made patch

All nicely sized for an invisible repair once I had ground back.

Unfortunately the HAZ indicated I had not taken enough out.

The hole to the side of the patch is really for access.


As the real problem is here


Now, access is really poor so it is difficult to cut out. The only way I can think of doing it is to lop off the "outrigger" part of the crossmember, cut out, patch and then weld the outrigger back on.

So, it is probably easier to hack the lot off and weld a new crossmember with leg extensions on.

However, this is a bit beyond the level of confidence I have in my own welding.

BTW, the vehicle is a 1989 90. This is the only area of the chassis that needs welding, the leg on the other side is fine :blink:

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Try and locate someone with a plasma cutter you can borrow/hire and you'll be able to cut that out no problem.

I replaced my rear crossmember last spring and IMHO I would repair the one you've got as it dosn't look in too bad a nick; in the long run it will be easier, cheaper, and will be alot sturdier than a replacement one.

M@ ;)

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Hate to be apparently controversial, but the rusted hole reflects the general condition of the rear crossmember, which is most likely going to be in a general weakened state (unless you only ever dip that corner in the water!). By tapping it in several places with a hammer you should get a reasonable idea of the thickness of the metal and the amount of crud rattling about inside it. The ends of the chassis rails is where they always rot - dirt and water are flung in that recess from the rear wheel, and inside the chassis rails it ends up there from anywhere along the entire vehicles length. If you are gooing to do any serious towing work, or hard use off-road, then a good quality replacement rear crossmember should be fitted. I bought a cheapo-carp new crossmember and reinforced/improved it.

Thread here covers it:-



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