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HELP! - Rear crossmember problems

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I'm trying to fit a new rear corss member with extensions and am not sure whether things are correct or not. I'm really struggling to get the sleeves far enough over the existing chassis. It seems like my chassis is as wide as the new piece meaning that as you get closer to the solid section of new chassis rail it get's tighter and tighter. I am reluctant to cut off any more of my existing chassis as it seems like things will not be strong enough and only really need to get it another half inch on for it to be aligned with the rear body.


Do things look normal or could I have the wrong crossmember?

In addition, once welded up, do people generally add a strengthener over the top as it seems like it's not going to be that tough given the thickness of the new piece which is a bearmach item.



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I did my 110 last year and it looks ok to me. I just bolted the rear of the new crossmember to the tub flattened the plates aroung the chassis rails and tacked it in place, unbolted it, raised the tub and welded it in place.

Check out the following in the technical archive Click.

It's well worth strengthening the crossmember while you have the chance, I would also V the plates before welding to add some more strength to the weld.

Edited: Forgot to say make sure you clean both the new crossmember and the chassis back to bare metal before you weld it in place.

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looks ok to me. I can see you have bent out the sleeves so it goes on easier. Thats fine. Just make sure you weld in properly.

You can put a strengthener plate on if you wish, personally I just drilled several holes and pooled some weld into them to create "big spot welds" if you like.

You'll need to be rough with it, hit it with something big! :D

Before you weld it get the welding faces very clean, and bolt it all up before you weld it - that way you know it all fits!

heres mine



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The crossmember fit looks ok to me, maybe a wee bit small. I have had to fit one that was a lot worse than that. Cut the overlapping bits back a bit so they are not so close to existing welds (the spring top/bump stop mount in your picture). It makes it easier to weld if you are not poking the nozzle into a corner. It might be worth removing the bump stop as the chassis has a habit of rotting through at that point, and you could repair it while you are there.


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If you are determined to keep the existing chassis length as is how about slotting the ends for a inch and bending them in a tad. When you are satisfied the new crossmember fits weld the slots back up.

Jas's idea of drilling holes in the extentions and then spot/puddle welding seems good sense.

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