Rear Half Shaft option?

[Warthog]

Looking at getting a "Spare" set of rear shafts for the 90 (300Tdi Fixed flange type shafts). But had been considering changing to the seperate type. What are my optons to do this?

Cheers

Mark

[Guest diesel_jim]

Some of the Td5/300Tdi shafts are the "2 piece" type, the 110 salisburies certainly are.

you /should/ be able to use the early thick drive shafts and 24 spline HD V8 shafts, as these were fitted to the camel disco's, which used similar axles to the ones you're talking about.

not sure of there was ever a "HD" one piece shaft, i don't think there was, you'd need the V8 or Ashcroft shafts for a real beefy setup.

Where in Swindon are you? I'm in Purton.

[Warthog]

Where in Swindon are you? I'm in Purton.

I be just outside Fairford, just right for the Air Tattoo

[BogMonster]

All old 90s and Discovery Tdis were fixed flange but the later (probably post 02 though not sure) 90s like mine have a separate flange.

Since it is ALWAYS the splines that go on 110 rear axles I have no idea why they ruined a perfectly good solid shaft by introducing a new weakness. I changed mine back to a set of Bearmach solid ones a couple of years ago. Unless you are going to get HD ones like Ashcrofts etc I would stick with the solid ones.

[Guest diesel_jim]

Since it is ALWAYS the splines that go on 110 rear axles I have no idea why they ruined a perfectly good solid shaft by introducing a new weakness.

I wonder what the consequenses would be, of getting a brand new shaft, and a brand new drive flange (so zero play between them) and then cranking the welder up and welding the two together? ("inside" the drive flange and on the outside where the rubber cap fits on.,.... maybe even drill the side of the flange and puddle weld it)

anyone tried this? i wondered about doing it to "old" flanges and shafts, but you'd be relying on the weld to take the drive power (if the splines were slack) but a *new* pair of items wouldn't have any free-play.

[BogMonster]

I know of people here who have done it on worn shafts and seem to be OK though admittedly not in a competition environment or anything. I think the drive members are cast so that may be the weakness - I seem to remember welding cast can make it brittle?

[JimAttrill]

I wonder what the consequenses would be, of getting a brand new shaft, and a brand new drive flange (so zero play between them) and then cranking the welder up and welding the two together? ("inside" the drive flange and on the outside where the rubber cap fits on.,.... maybe even drill the side of the flange and puddle weld it)

anyone tried this? i wondered about doing it to "old" flanges and shafts, but you'd be relying on the weld to take the drive power (if the splines were slack) but a *new* pair of items wouldn't have any free-play.

Welded half shafts on 110s are quite common here in SA, it removes the play from one place at least, and is cheaper than new shafts and drive members.

BUTTT... Firstly you must weld them on the vehicle to make sure it is all ligned up. You MUST use a TIG welder, anything else will break as the metals are different. Do NOT weld on the inside, this causes the shaft to break at the weld.

I fitted welded shafts because after I fitted a Detroit Locker the left hand half shaft would come out a couple of inches and push the plastic hub cap off. Then oil would come out all over the place. The stupid circlip stops the shaft from moving in, there is nothing to stop it moving out.

I hadn't noticed the great leap backwards to separate shafts on later 90s. Land Rover do some strange things at times.

[rick]

of course if you fit an RTC3511 hub seal and remove the axle tube seal you will have no spline wear thanks to the diff oil lubing things. Just like an eighties 110.

That's all everyone does here after fitting Maxi axles.

[JimAttrill]

I have found that if you take shafts in and out a few times the inner seal will not work anyway So much the better, except that if the plastic cap is pushed off the oil makes a bit of a mess.