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TRANSFER BOX!


Jason2

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Jason, so with the prop on is there clearance on the slider?

the angle of the diff is controlled by the suspension links. To check A frame balljoint use a pry bar between axle case mounting point and one of the m8 13mm head bolts to see if it will lift up & down( handbrake on vehicle on ground wheel chocked etc) any play means its worn out. check all the other susp bushes/ mounting points to see if anything looks wrong/worn using the pry bar. Seems to be back axle/suspension rather than t/box tho.

HTH

Steveb

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B)-->

QUOTE(steve b @ May 12 2007, 06:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Jason, so with the prop on is there clearance on the slider?

the angle of the diff is controlled by the suspension links. To check A frame balljoint use a pry bar between axle case mounting point and one of the m8 13mm head bolts to see if it will lift up & down( handbrake on vehicle on ground wheel chocked etc) any play means its worn out. check all the other susp bushes/ mounting points to see if anything looks wrong/worn using the pry bar. Seems to be back axle/suspension rather than t/box tho.

HTH

Steveb

Cheers Steveb

Got to start some where!!! just ordered new UJ's for front and rear props, new " A frame" ball joint-Probably wont get here before the end of the week!

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  • 3 weeks later...
B)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(steve b @ May 12 2007, 06:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Jason, so with the prop on is there clearance on the slider?

the angle of the diff is controlled by the suspension links. To check A frame balljoint use a pry bar between axle case mounting point and one of the m8 13mm head bolts to see if it will lift up & down( handbrake on vehicle on ground wheel chocked etc) any play means its worn out. check all the other susp bushes/ mounting points to see if anything looks wrong/worn using the pry bar. Seems to be back axle/suspension rather than t/box tho.

HTH

Steveb

Cheers Steveb

Got to start some where!!! just ordered new UJ's for front and rear props, new " A frame" ball joint-Probably wont get here before the end of the week!

Happy days are here again tra la lar,tra la lar!!!!!! Blurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhh :angry::angry::angry:

Fully serviced front & rear props with new uj's NO BETTER, and the noise is now accompanied by severe vibration, tried changing upper a frame ball joint but couldn't with out losing another day of our lives, checked old one though which isn't seized.

Practically convinced that the rear diff is out of line with rear prop,if you measure from the wheel centre to front of wheel arch there is at least a cm difference.

Think that the vibrations are due to old prop Uj's absorbing some of the rear diff misalignment.

The start of the original noise does coincide with a parking dispute between the right rear wheel and a low wall!!

How does one go about checking/re-aligning a rear diff?? Anyone?

Jason

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Happy days are here again tra la lar,tra la lar!!!!!! Blurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhh :angry::angry::angry:

Fully serviced front & rear props with new uj's NO BETTER, and the noise is now accompanied by severe vibration, tried changing upper a frame ball joint but couldn't with out losing another day of our lives, checked old one though which isn't seized.

Practically convinced that the rear diff is out of line with rear prop,if you measure from the wheel centre to front of wheel arch there is at least a cm difference.

Think that the vibrations are due to old prop Uj's absorbing some of the rear diff misalignment.

The start of the original noise does coincide with a parking dispute between the right rear wheel and a low wall!!

How does one go about checking/re-aligning a rear diff?? Anyone?

Jason

I take it it's got you lot stumped too!

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I take it it's got you lot stumped too!

Hmm - I have a 90 with the same symptoms up front. It started after a Truetrac diff was fitted up front (which causes massive power-on understeer by the way). I had a big fat vibration up front - enough to shake the steering. It went in for investigation, and front diff adjustment and came out semi-fixed, but has now got worse when the UJ's were replaced.

I think it is the front diff - but I can't find any visible wear in the pinion- the only way to be sure is to have it out for a looksee. I've read your post with interest.

In your case I think you need to do some work on the car before futher comment! :ph34r: I would check the trailing arms, spring seats and dampers for straightness. A bent trailing arm is possible - it would drag the diff out of alignment. I struggle to see how the A frame ball joint could deflect the diff that much. No point fixing that diff pinion (which deffo needs doing) until the axle lines up.

Keep us posted - and I hope you get fixed, but not before me!

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Dont suppose when you twatted the low wall its bent your trailing arm or the chassis mount for it? :o

As someone said it does look like the rubber do-nut is under axial compression. Could the whole axle be forward at the twatted side?

You could measure the distance between front and rear outriggers at both sides.

Cheers.

Bigbird

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  • 2 weeks later...
Dont suppose when you twatted the low wall its bent your trailing arm or the chassis mount for it? :o

As someone said it does look like the rubber do-nut is under axial compression. Could the whole axle be forward at the twatted side?

You could measure the distance between front and rear outriggers at both sides.

Cheers.

Bigbird

Wow!!!!!! Back again :angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry:

All in bit's, covered in ****e (us again) Measured (as best we could) hub centres,2cm difference,no visual bends,iffy bits,trailing arms straight & mountings.Straightened rear axle up by putting washers behind trailing arm mountings!Took her out still got a bloody thunderous wail at 60mph.Took rear prop off yet again,took her out again nothing!!!!!

Is this the rear diff then??????? or could it still be the rear transfer flange bearings????? Also now got a vibration through the steering wheel under exceleration at 30mph which remains that was'nt there before changing the front UJ's??????

Paddocks have got a rear diff for 150 snakes, but it's naked, what's involved in swopping over all the bits from old diff,joints etc.... would it be best to get a new rear left hand side stub axle,half shaft (side that got twatted) at the same time?????????

And in the meantime unless we get this sorted wishing you all a Very Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year!!!!!!!

Cheers Jason.......Blurrrrrreh

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  • 5 months later...

I have dragged this back up as we have a "RESULT" :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

I gave in due to lack of time, I managed to find him a local English mechanic (I think it was you steve b that mentioned that you knew a guy near here? was it Cole?)who sorted it (with the help of a rolling road).Re-positioning rear trailing arm bushes on the other side of the mount raised the diff up in line with rear prop which got rid of the rear vibrations and putting a new prop on the front (old one already had new UJ's but this made vibration worse) sorted front vibrations out!

What has come to light is that Disco was recently tested (MOT) by a local station when all went belly up,that we think are not equipped to do permanent 4 wheel drive.I'm going to give them a ring this afternoon!

My mates well chuffed, Disco's running like a dream and he's saved himself £2000 on original quote from first garage that wanted to change his transfer box!!

Have a nice one

Jason

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