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Tdi clutch fork. Case harden the pivot socket ?


rick
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seeing as these things are a piece of pressed steel, and I'm guessing a very low carbon one at that, what does the brains trust reckon about case hardening the pivot socket, as well as reinforcing the back side of the socket ?

(yes, I've been driving without a clutch for a few days, now borrowed a friends old FJ45 while the things in bits waiting for the flywheel to come back)

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you could do, but its not the surface hardness that is the problem.

The reason they fail is that the steel used is too thin and failures are usually due to fatigue, not wear.

mine just tore through the metal, i've seen others where the whole pivot cup has fallen off, and i don't think case hardening would solve that.

unless you are talking about case haredening just a few microns thick i reckon you could actually make things worse by causing the arm to go brittle.

the easiest way to strengthen them is to weld something across the back to stop the pivot punching through.

LR4x4's very own Les Henson did mine, and made such a smashing job of the welding that it was a shame to hide it away, I think he does them from time to time to raise a few quid for the forum, it might be worth dropping him a PM.

otherwise, just mig a strip of flat steel across the back of it.

I certainly recommend you do something with it though...

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Rick I can't remember where I saw it first, maybe here, but removing the ball joint seat from an old tie rod end and welding that on the back of the lever works as an effective repair. If you can be bothered you can make the lever greasable by drilling the ball pivot and mount and making up a line out of brake line tubing to a''bulkhead'' fitting in an accesible location on the bellhousing. Many commercial vehicles have a similar arrangement to lube their clutch thrust bearings and /or carriers.

bill.

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I have 5 clutch forks waiting for me to get off my lazy backside and strengthen. One has already been bagged by Gromit, but the other 4 will be ready by Wed. They are £15 each delivered anywhere but the bluddy Falkland Islands :rtfm: All money goes to the forum gin fund.

Les. :)

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Rick I can't remember where I saw it first, maybe here, but removing the ball joint seat from an old tie rod end and welding that on the back of the lever works as an effective repair. If you can be bothered you can make the lever greasable by drilling the ball pivot and mount and making up a line out of brake line tubing to a''bulkhead'' fitting in an accesible location on the bellhousing. Many commercial vehicles have a similar arrangement to lube their clutch thrust bearings and /or carriers.

bill.

have an old ball joint seat saved up for it Bill. Think I first saw it suggested here by your very hand.

Thought of making it greaseable too (like my old Fiat tractor) but just can't be bothered. It lasted 220,000km, so I'm guessing it's time for a clutch and seals anyway.

I have 5 clutch forks waiting for me to get off my lazy backside and strengthen. One has already been bagged by Gromit, but the other 4 will be ready by Wed. They are £15 each delivered anywhere but the bluddy Falkland Islands :rtfm: All money goes to the forum gin fund.

Les. :)

umm, Les, I'm not quite as far south as Stephen, but probably two to three times as far away ;)

thanks for the offer anyway. :D

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