Hybrid from D90 and 88' SIIa

[backball]

I might have the option of getting my hands on a D90 military spec. I'm playing with the idea of giving my 88' SIIa a mechanical "facelift".

For this I'd get a "rolling D90 chassis" based on above D90 with the following components:

- chassis

- axles (discs all around)

- suspension

- power steering

- engine (provided it's a 2.5L petrol)

- (brake servo)

And build a hybrid around this as follows:

- cut chassis to 88' dimensions

- (existing) SIIa front bulkhead

- (existing) gearbox and drive train

- (existing) SIIa bonnet, wings and radiator panel

- (existing) SIIa rear tub

I don't have chassis dimensions of both a D90 and 88' to compare but like to believe the D90 chassis could be cut so that the various holding/mounting points would be the same for the above existing components to be mounted on. Figure there would be two cuts: one after the front cross member and the second to shorten the "overhang" at the end.

Anyone done this before? Comments? Pitfalls?

[yellow]

I believe that the chassis itself does not need cutting. It is the wheelbase that changed, which means that the bodywork of a Series on top of a Defender might look a bit out of whack.

Otherwise it is a fairly straight swap... More in the terminology of: "When it ain't broke do not try and fix it." And we all know Land Rover never fixed it...

[muddy]

surley it would be beter to jus put 2 a doors, roof, screen,rear cappings and front end on an existing 90? wayy less work and no need for an sva and thus can keep origonal reg??

[FridgeFreezer]

The chassis dimensions are the same, you shouldn't need to cut anything. To make it look like an 88 you need to put the front grille, bonnet, screen and roof on. These should fit although bolts and fixings may be in different locations, and the radiator panel may give issues with the position of the engine/rad/fan and PAS on the 90.

Does beg the question "why bother" - you're going to break a serviceable 88 and chop about a straight 90, in value terms you're throwing away a pile of cash as neither will be worth much after all this.

Start by working out what you want (a Series with a TDi, a 90 with a bit more character, or ?) and then work out the best way to achieve it. The best way may well be to sell both vehicles in their original state and buy something that's been modified to be closer to your requirements.

[nickm]

depending wot your going to be useing it for i wouldnt bother cutting the chassis for the sake of 4 n a bit inches

put my lightweight on a shortened rrc chassis cut down to 88, wish it wasnt quite so short

as it gets a bit scary coming down steep hills with the back wheels in the air

think the 90 tub is longer so the series roof wont fit unless u have a truck cab

[backball]

The chassis dimensions are the same, you shouldn't need to cut anything. To make it look like an 88 you need to put the front grille, bonnet, screen and roof on. These should fit although bolts and fixings may be in different locations, and the radiator panel may give issues with the position of the engine/rad/fan and PAS on the 90.

Does beg the question "why bother" - you're going to break a serviceable 88 and chop about a straight 90, in value terms you're throwing away a pile of cash as neither will be worth much after all this.

Start by working out what you want (a Series with a TDi, a 90 with a bit more character, or ?) and then work out the best way to achieve it. The best way may well be to sell both vehicles in their original state and buy something that's been modified to be closer to your requirements.

Do you have any chassis dimensions/diagrams? I thought not only is there a diff in wheelbase? 88 vs 92.9 but also a longer overhang at the back (as per the comments from yellow).

I haven't gotten the D90 (from scrap yard) so it's not a case of having two fully working vehicles and chopping them apart. The end result will have to have character (hence retaining the Series look). The question of path is not necessarily one driven by sanity only but also ease of achievement. Don't we all love our Land Rovers as this gives us "an excuse" to spend our time ?

If I have a different wheelbase not only would I assume there's (significant) body work but also mechanical changes like drive train changes, prop shaft...

I've read various posts about going the RR route as a base vehicle but never saw the Defender route to-date. So if you put yourself in a situation where the cost is not a deciding factor between RR (100') and D90 base would you still go the RR route?

[nickm]

if your going to shorten the chassis then u would need a front prop for the rear

on a rangy chassis i removed 12 inches making it an 88 the front prop is 12 inches shorten than

a rear prop so nice n easy

not sure if its an issue but even if u put all the bits on from the series u'll still aft 2 keep the 90 reg

[FridgeFreezer]

The reason people tend to go the RR route is that rusty old rangies are cheap and plentiful compared to 90's.

I always thought the coilers had a few inches extra wheelbase but identical bodywork dimensions with only small cosmetic changes.

You still haven't said what you want the thing to do, that will determine the easiest way of doing it.

[JSG]

It depends what you're trying to achieve really. If the idea is to end up with a coil sprung IIa that is tax free then is it worth the bother these days? If you just want the 'look' of a Series then is it possible to get a rear tub with 90 and possibly the bulkhead which would make life easier - you can just stick the series front end on.

It seems to me that chopping a couple of inches out the chassis to get a 88" tub to fit is a lot of trouble to go to, especially with the aggro of props etc.

[nickm]

I always thought the coilers had a few inches extra wheelbase but identical bodywork dimensions with only small cosmetic changes.

front wings n doors are the same but the rear arches are further back to make up for the 4.4 inches in wheel base

[backball]

It depends what you're trying to achieve really. If the idea is to end up with a coil sprung IIa that is tax free then is it worth the bother these days? If you just want the 'look' of a Series then is it possible to get a rear tub with 90 and possibly the bulkhead which would make life easier - you can just stick the series front end on.

It seems to me that chopping a couple of inches out the chassis to get a 88" tub to fit is a lot of trouble to go to, especially with the aggro of props etc.

So you're saying that going for a Series look I could use a standard 90 rear tub to fit the extra 4 or so inches? I still would retain the Series bulkhead and all the rest of the front (bonnet, rad grille, wings). Hardtop's not a problem as I'm running c truck cab.

Of all the good advise so far I haven't heard yet whether the mounting points for the bulkhead and other key mounts are the same for the two chassis (except the wheelbase). I found a 90 chassis diagram but didn't find an 88'.

[nickm]

sorry unable to help with that never really looked at 90 bulkhead mounts

[FridgeFreezer]

Series bulkhead outriggers are about £12 each so it wouldn't be the end of the world to have to change them. You may find a lot of little body mounting points have moved between 2A and Defender but the two are basically the same shape and many of the parts are interchangeable, and making one fit the other shouldn't be too painful.

To give you an idea, I have a 130 seatbox in the 109 and, if anyone had any, I would've used 110 B/C pillar and sill assemblies as these are what the S3 part# supersedes to. My steering column is a 90 one on a Series 3 bulkhead with a Range Rover wheel. Doors are interchangeable but you need to move the catch, etc. etc.