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Articulation


ltwt1981

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Here are a couple of pics as the ltwt is now.

I get 22 inches of articulation at present with parabolics and +2" shocks front, standard heavy duty rear.

Got some longer shocks for the back at Sodbury so on they go.

I have 5" shackles on the rear and standard on the front, if I put longer shackles on when do I get propshaft problems and is it worth the trade off.

What are the longest I can use, I'll try 6" on the rear and add an inch to the front first to see what effect that has.

rti002a8xw.jpg

rti004a5fk.jpg

As you can see it gets 16" front lift with the opposite rear on two 4" blocks, the right front is about 2" off in these pics.

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is that an axle strap i can see on the rear?

the amount of droop in the suspension will be dictated by the prop angle, binding yokes etc.

whilst doing suspension mods keep in mind wot u may or may not do with transmission lengths in the future ;)

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i binned the straps (as have most others). i've never measured amount of travel so cant comment. but have remade bottom mounts and shifted top mounts, got it to the pont of having a fair bit of articulation which i am happy with and called it job done. i do believe u can have too much

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No idea whats standard but lose the axle straps!

I'm running 1 tonne shackles front and rear, with parabolics all rount and pro-comp shocks.

You'll get away with the standard rear propshaft, but the front end needs more attention. Take a grinder to the spring seats on the front axle to correct the castor angle. You can use correction wedges, but they're nasty and keep working loose. You'll then find that the standard series front prop is not short, but also the sliding joint is too short, and the front prop hits the x-member.

You need to scallop the x-member if you havnt already and make up a prop shaft to suit by cutting down one from a coiler (mines a cut down 4 speed rangie front prop) as the sliders are longer on the coilers.

I've also re-mounted my shocks higher for more ground clearance.

Ok.......getting very approximate here - with my offside front wheel on top of an approximately 3 foot high bank, the offside rear wheel ends up about 1" off the ground on an otherwise flat surface (the local school car park funnily enough!)

HTH

Jon

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Ok.......getting very approximate here - with my offside front wheel on top of an approximately 3 foot high bank, the offside rear wheel ends up about 1" off the ground on an otherwise flat surface (the local school car park funnily enough!)

HTH

Jon

why do i get the feeling i'll be usin my winch to put u back on your wheels again before long :ph34r:

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Yep - remade with a flat plate, with the bottom shock eye then relocated to above the flat plate. Gives you alot more ground clearance.

You may then need to move the top mounts up aswell else the shock will bind on full bump. I've done this on the front, may in future do the rear top mounts also, need to check clearances on full bump at some point.

Also bear in mind for more articulation you'll need to either fit longer front brake hoses or make some dropper brackets else the hoses will be too short. Rear one is fine as standard.

Jon

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Tyres 235*85*16 Grizzlys.

Trying to get better off road ability, height can be an advantage, clearance or a disadvantage, rolls over, so a happy medium is the answer.

Got to have clearance and room to move the wheels about, but want COG low to prevent roll over.

You two seem to be the only leaf sprung people doing this sort of thing so will have a good look at your trucks at the HBRO MWMC in Feb.

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You two seem to be the only leaf sprung people doing this sort of thing so will have a good look at your trucks at the HBRO MWMC in Feb.

better look at it before the event, cos after it will be covered.

a slightly bigger tyre will give u better clearance underneath, thus necessitating the cutting of the rear boxes.

u can raise the body as much as u like but they'll still be the same clearance under your axles.

higher u go then increasing the offset of the rims u use is a way of keeping it more stable.

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Normally bitter but in the mornings tea, joking aside its not normally a problem at these events, Nige and I like to have a good fun day, no hassle or grief, so prepare well and all will be well.

When I started scrutineering I was told we are not here to stop people competing but to overcome any issues of safety.

In the last eight years of motor racing I think I have only stopped one car racing and that one you could poke your fingers through the roll cage. The owner said but its a 1968 car with the original cage and I want to keep it original, answer, put it in a museum then.

We normally will tell people they have a problem, go away and fix it, if it cant be fixed, we will unless critical as above, let them play.

However someone has to define critical and at MWMC that is mine and Niges role.

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Its also about common courtesy, say good morning with a smile, not whats this pile then, and you're already half way there, I've seen it at high profile events and you often never see the scrut again after that.

If you are nice to the competitor they are normally nice back and you get any minor bits fixed easily then.

Mind you there is always an exception, especially karts, so I don't do them at all.

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