Alessandro Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 Hi, my name is Alessandro from Sanremo (Italy), owner of a 1972 series II-III and I'm trying to replace the differential pinion oil seal following the very good instructions I've read in this site (I have done the flange locker too). After a furious struggle finally I have succeeded in unlocking the flange centre nut, and now the only difference of my reality from the instruction is that my old rubber seal is inside a toroidal metallic body (I hope to have well explained the matter). My new seal hasn't it (infact it's equal to the instruction seal) , so what I have to do? I'll have to remove in a destructive-way the old metallic case from the axle casting and then press the new seal into the differential? Hoping to receive an answer, my best regards... Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 You don't say if your truck is SWB or LWB, Rover or Salisbury axle Alessandro, so there are a couple of seals it might be - depending on what axle/vehicle you have. Salisbury axle 109 1-ton the seal is part number AEU2515 Rover axle 88" and 109" is FRC4586 Make sure you have the right one as they are not interchangeable. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 You don't say if your truck is SWB or LWB, Rover or Salisbury axle Alessandro, so there are a couple of seals it might be - depending on what axle/vehicle you have.Salisbury axle 109 1-ton the seal is part number AEU2515 Rover axle 88" and 109" is FRC4586 Make sure you have the right one as they are not interchangeable. Les. Thank you Les, my axle is a Rover one and I just have the correct replacement part (FRC4586). It may be a stupid question (and it is, but this is the first time that I try to replace a seal in a car) but while my new seal is totally rubber-skinned, the front of the old seal (that is in the dif again) seems to me (and it is ) metallic. Yesterday, when I removed the flange and I saw the old seal, remembering of the new seal I had at home, I preferred to ask for help instead of removing the part in the diff in a destructive way. Now I think that I had to remove the metallic part from the diff (the rubber part has gone away) . Can you suggest me the better way of doing this? Yesterday I tried for a little in a very polite way but with no result... Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 This is a picture of the parts catalogue, showing how yours should be. The old seal has to levered out - sometimes destroying it at the same time, but take care not ot damage anything else (a bent screwdriver is usally used) Once the old seal is out - remove and rust from the lip of the differential housing nose to prevent the new seal from being damaged. Apply some grease to the edge of the new seal and also the nose of the differential to help in fitting it. Carefully knock the seal in - keeping it nice and sqaure and make sure it far enough inside the diff nose to prevent the drive flange from rubbing on it. Check the part of the drive flange that spins inside the lip of the seal for a groove. If the grrove is deep enough then the new one will soon start to leak again. I tried for a little in a very polite way but with no result... That's an excellent translation - most people swear Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Many thanks Les, Now the only thing that I have to do is going to my landy and start swearing... I'll keep you informed Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 dont be worried if your new seal doesn't look the same as your old one, aslong as the diameters are corrcet then it will seal, aslong as your drive flange hasn't got a wear groove on it. older seals were made from metal and leather, newer ones are all rubbery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 dont be worried if your new seal doesn't look the same as your old one, aslong as the diameters are corrcet then it will seal, aslong as your drive flange hasn't got a wear groove on it.older seals were made from metal and leather, newer ones are all rubbery i spent two hours struggling againt the old seal, that is like this picture: As Tonk say, it maybe of metal and leather, but the problem is that I have found 3 toroidal circles. I have cutted with hammer and screwdriver the first circle and I've found rubber (and the metallic spring). After this one there are other 2 toroidal circles...I have to remove only the first two (that are the seal) and the third is the washer 539745 as I think or the old seal was so complicated as you can see in this other pic, where you can see the three circles numbered 1 (external) 2 (intemediate) 3 (inner)? Sorry for my question , but I have the fear to add damage to my lady landy... Many thanks in advance, Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver, get all the tin bits out til you're back to the outer casting of the diff housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Ok guys, I'll keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver but the 3rd toric circle of the picture is the washer 539745 you see in Les' exploded view or it's another tin in the seal ? Bye Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Ok guys, I'll keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver but the 3rd toric circle of the picture is the washer 539745 you see in Les' exploded view or it's another tin in the seal ?Bye Alessandro Alessandro Best off making another split in other part of seal at 180 degrees to the split you have already created and then you shall find it easy to remove. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Ok guys, I'll keep going at it with hammer and screwdriver but the 3rd toric circle of the picture is the washer 539745 you see in Les' exploded view or it's another tin in the seal ?Bye Alessandro 1 and 2 in your pic are the front and back of a metal and leather seal. 3 is indeed 539745 or it might be the inner of the roller bearing 539707. Leave those bits in. Stick a stout screw driver in between the pinion drive shaft and the seal and lever it out. If that fails carefully drill a 3mm hole in the front face of the seal with a drill heavily coated in grease. This will trap the fillings. Then screw a self tapping screw partially in that hole and pull on the screw using the claw end of a hammer for leverage, that should yank out the seal. If the screw pulls out, just drill another hole in it and try again. Once the seal is out check no swarf has got in. Clean the sealing face where the seal sits, lightly grease the sealing face and also the lips of the seal and also the flange where the seal runs on. Place seal in diff by hand, and gently push in enough for it to stay by hand. Once its stared to go in, tap in square very gently using a block of wood placed across the face of the seal. Tap in until flush with front of diff casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Many thanks in advance to all of you that have given to me precious help and human comprehension... I'll keep you informed about the matter. Bie! Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alessandro Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 This afternoon, after a diff seal-free w.e. I finally succeed in removing this one. This seal was made of 3 circular crowns (1,2 and 3 in the picture I have just posted) with the 2nd and 3rd crown free to move. A very big and complex seal, nothing to compare with the new simple seal I'm going to fit in my diff. A last thing: I have not seen the washer 539745 that from Les' picture appears very thin. The only think I see now is a cylinder that protudes for less tha 1" from the bearing surface and that wraps around the pinion. The flange is stopped by this part or not? And, 'cause I've bought the washer 539745 too, I had to fit it or not and after, provided that I have no play in the bearings and that my diff is a rover one, can you suggest me the maximum load I can tighten the pinion? Bye! Alessandro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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