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Everything posted by simonb

  1. Spacer goes between the door frame and skin, I would put one washer on the outside of the skin of the door so nut clamps on it, and the other between the frame and the motor. Rubber grommet goes through hole in skin. Top hat rubber washer goes over end of motor shaft, then wiper arm, then small nut.
  2. simonb


    When you say that.. can you get your series 3 cover to line up with 3 empty holes or 1 dowel and 2 empty holes in the flywheel? If you can, then you just need more dowels. The dowels and their cover holes are to a tighter tolerance fit than the bolt holes, so it ensures a more accurate fit. Bit like why cylinder heads have dowels to locate them.
  3. simonb


    The plate is defo correct has it has the coarse splines. There should be 3 dowels on the flywheel not 2 this maybe the issue as you maybe trying to line the wrong holes up , I don't think there is a difference to a series 2 flywheel, but no doubt someone will say if there is. The series 3 cover is 1/2" larger diameter than a series 2, but I thought the dowels and bolt centres were the same. Take the driven plate out entirely and then try fitting the cover. That will give you the correct alignment for the cover. Are there spare dowel holes in the flywheel?
  4. simonb


    Google the parts you have and select images/shopping. It should then come up with something, even old finished ebay listings and the prices. Your alternator has to be worth £150 at least and you know the new price of your "wrong" clutch parts. If you sell the dizzy complete with leads then again that's got to be another 3 figure sum at least - they are no longer available from most spares places and yours is A1 new condition.
  5. simonb


    You need series 3 clutch components to match your gearbox, the ones on your new engine won't work with your box. So, clutch cover 576557, plate FRC2297, clutch arm 576137 - probably cost a fortune new, so look online for a used one, they don't wear out and FRC4679 release bearing.
  6. Nope I think you are correct, hence why we now have Teflon (swivel) balls. 🤨 The shiny bits of aircraft landing gear legs (the oleo/damper part) used to be chromed but I don't think they are (allowed to be) now. I guess its the same for the hydraulic ram shafts on the big yellow diggers from Mr Bamford....
  7. According to the interweb, https://www.galvinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2017/05/GalvInfoNote_2_6.pdf the larger spangles are due to impurities in the zinc particularly lead. Nowadays the amount of lead is much reduced or even non existent which results in the finish many have commented on. Neither my 90 or S3 chassis have much spangle, however the new council lamp post at the end of the drive has some, but its nothing like the the "old stuff" - applies to lamp posts and chassis!
  8. A decent chassis black - look on line, or If you want something really tough 2 pack epoxy paint - bit like the glue, you mix the main paint with a hardener. Bit of pain mixing small quantities for small parts but great for large items like axles. TBH, if you have done the prep, zinc primed and red oxide(d), then that's the main protection. Do not use Hammerite under any circumstances.
  9. Buy new shocks as the top covers are rusted through. New U bolts and nylocs as these are a critical suspension part. Shock lower mounts can be cleaned up with wire brush attachment in angle grinder. Then use an anti rust solution. Zinc paint (can get this in a rattle can or better quality from Witham paints in a tin) as primer, then a couple of coats of red oxide and top coat x2 of your choice. Takes a bit of time but worth doing. I would top coat you new shocks as the paint tends to be very thin. Top shock bolts, reuse, clean up threads and shanks using angle grinder as above. Coat with grease over entire bolt, refit.
  10. The only thing you haven't changed is the gauge... How quickly does the gauge go from cold to overheat? If you just leave the engine idling, does the gauge go to the red? If its a matter of minutes, then its more likely to be a duff gauge. With all that cast iron and water in the engine, there is no way the engine can produce enough heat from cold to make the gauge go to red in less than 15 to 20 minutes (or actually at all if everything is working as it should). Does the gauge very slowly go to red, or rapidly? The latter would suggest an electrical fault. What temperature does the IR thermometer show on the thermostat housing? Are you doubly sure you haven't got an airlock - do the heater hoses both get hot? From cold, leave the cap off the radiator, does the same thing happen? Does the radiator get evenly hot from top to bottom when the thermostat opens?
  11. What an absolute idiot - they must have hammered on the pulley to the crank - its a sliding fit, and then jammed the nut on. I would gently file away the remains of the Woodruff key so its flush with the crank, then remove the timing gear. Then you maybe able to grip the undamaged part of the key beneath the timing gear and wiggle the remains out. If that fails, then drill a series of small holes in the bit you have filled flush, that should release the pressure enough on the sides of the key to get it out. Probably needs a new pulley as well.
  12. MTC3180 lower, 330202 upper, 330203, vertical (long one) available various places if you Google them. Use sealant between them them door frame and the felt channels to prevent as much water as possible getting into the door top bottom frame.. Yours are good enough to reuse if you flatten out the pulled holes. Doesn't matter if you drill new holes through them - the window channel will hide that.
  13. Or these LED clear lens ones: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231698206606 Rover MGF (and Discovery 200/300) wing indicators have the same smaller "square style" wing hole as Defender 200/300, but the Eblag item allows you to "upgrade" from the small square repeaters of those models to the larger Td5/Puma rectangular side repeater. The TD5/Puma ones aren't a direct fit in the earlier models as the Td5/Puma wing hole is much larger.
  14. The pin needs to go in the hole, otherwise it won't work properly. From what I remember, as the oil heats up, the pin extends further which has the effect of moving the body backwards which together with the washers around it, allows the port to be uncovered allowing oil through the cooler. Do you have a Vernier calliper, (or check against twist drills) to see how much bigger the pin on the new one is?
  15. Your fault finding process is all correct. Sounds like the winding inside the temp gauge has broken. What happens if you earth the non supply side of the gauge? Replacements are available but not cheap. The temp section can be removed from the main dial and you should be able to undo the nuts holding the terminals to the body and remove the "can" to see inside. Nothing to loose and you might see a break in the wire inside at the terminals. If the break is in the coil itself then it probably is a new/used one as a replacement.
  16. As other's have said, have you actually changed the propshaft(s) UJs? They are the cheapest bit of the drive train and difficult to test by hand - unless completely seized. It's only an hour job per shaft to change the UJs. Check also the sliding joints. Then if you haven't already checked: engine/gearbox mounts, exhaust not touching chassis, A Frame and axle bushes, shock absorber rubbers, drive flanges at wheels for wear, and excessive diff wear. Also check all the wheel bearings, jack wheel up, grasp at top and bottom and push/pull the wheel, and then repeat at 3&9 o clock, there should be no movement. Is your vehicle disc braked on the rear? Check the pads are secure in the calliper, with all the clips in place and there isn't wear in the calliper which allows the pads to move slightly circumferentially around the disc. If drum braked at rear, take the drums off and check nothing is adrift - stones/mud jamming up the shoes.
  17. Something else which is odd, in your tables, there is no change between going from key 0 to key 1. The only change is from key 1 to key 2. Are the barrel lock and switch properly aligned? It seems all one click out. Just found this: I think you switch says 162SA as well. So the wiring is correct, and I doubt all 3 switches are duff, and given what I said about key positions, I think that is your problem. The acid test to check you glow plug wiring is to use a set of jump leads to connect to the red brown bypassing the ignition switch entirely, and see if that makes starting easier.
  18. I very much doubt all the switches are duff. Just because there are only 2 big terminals - doesn't mean you have the right feed on the right one. The switch internals aren't electrically symmetrical so if you have the feed on what is actually an output, the measurements on the terminals won't be correct - which does seem indeed to be the case - on all 3 switches. Hmmm.... The only common thing is they don't appear to be working, so you have nothing to loose from trying what I have suggested. Swap the feed on to terminal one (or what ever the other big terminal is labelled) and then see what happens. This is the only thing you haven't tried. Report back and then we can go from there. Monkie has already mentioned his switch may be different. Can you post a terminal view of your genuine LR PRC2735 without any wires attached?
  19. Looking at the LUCAS diagram from Ralph, battery (brown wire) should be connected to terminal 1, which has a big end where it is riveted to the body and is at 11 o clock when the terminals are facing you. Your table suggests you have battery connected to terminal 5, which is at 5 o clock. What happens if you move the battery connection to 11 o'clock and fill in a new table with voltages? If that then works then, red brown needs to go onto term 5, 5 o clock. white black term 2, 2 o clock white red, term 3, 9 o clock The white blue which you mention is an ammeter, I would leave off for the moment, as it depends on where it is measuring amps, on how to connect it. They are never really a good idea as its more high powered cabling behind the dash, and a voltmeter tells you more. Get the switch wiring sorted and we can advise on the white blue later.
  20. It will physically bolt up but Isn't the bell housing length different on them as well (Disco longer)? This makes the gear stick problem even worse - it ends up in seatbox between the front seats. On the Defender box, the shifter mechanism is positioned over the main gearbox casing (the black steel ribbed section). On the Discovery the shifter is positioned behind the main gearbox casing and over the ally rear casting from which the output shaft protrudes - so further back - towards the rear. This image from Ashcroft's shows a Discovery box. https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/manual-gearboxes/r-380.html
  21. Ah, that it explains it. Yes just cut off my wiring and wire in place of the old one. The original resistor has to be air cooled, but the new one will be fine bolted on the outside of the casing, or you can fit it inside like the old one. I designed the kit to bypass the original resistor by fitting it to the switch, as normally its such a pain to get to the old one. Be worth painting your new mounting bracket with rich zinc paint. All the water from the windscreen/bonnet ends up running down over the footwell and the bracket which is why the end up like yours. Might be worth opening up the motor and checking the brushes and also the bearings whilst you are at it. The bearings are Olite bushes so should be "maintenance free" but the steel shaft can rust. A few drops of light oil into the bearing bushes can often work wonders.
  22. Make sure you use plenty of cavity wax in the hollow box section beneath the bottom window channel - unless you have all ally door tops. Its best to do this before you fit the seals and glass as you can inject in via the window lock hole and rotate the door top so that it thoroughly covers all of the inside. Rain runs into this section from the glass and this is why series door tops rot out. Did mine when they were new 25 years ago and not sign of any rust/bubbling ally. Another hint if you intend to screw the channel in and you use the metal type, is to fit some self adhesive neoprene strip to the back of the channel. This prevents the underside sitting in water and allows the water to run more easily into the drain holes in the top of the box section of the door top.
  23. That's my kit, and if you follow the instructions (like 100s of others have), it replaces the original resistor. Again if you followed the instructions, no soldering is required, the new resistor fits to the blower switch inside the speedo binnacle - to save all the faff of getting to the old one - and soldering. Since you have stripped out all of the old resistor, and disconnected the wiring, you will have to cut off all the wiring in the kit and attach your old wiring to the new resistor at the fan end. Just screw the resistor to the inside of that metal plate. FYI - for other forum members, even if your old resistor is burnt out, you can still fit the new one at the switch.
  24. Its easier to bleed if you don't fit to bellhousing first. Connect hose, bolt a stout bar across the end, bolted through the mounting holes and let it all hang on the hose. The bleed nipple is then vertical and easy to get at. Once bled out, remove bar and fit cylinder to bell housing. You may need to reset pedal height to get the correct clutch operation - there was someone asking about this a few days back, with Western giving some advice.
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