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Starting Problems on carb v8


Gingerlandy

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Does any one know what would be causing my V8 on Stromberg Carbs to be a pain starting. Seams to run fine once going but if you stall it you will faltern the battery some times before it goes. It is running on an electric fuel pump and the return is running fine could this pump be pushing to much fuel through and flooding the engine?

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This could be so mainy things and any more detail you can add would help, year of R/R, misfiring, poor performance etc, you could check the basics like oil level in carb dashpots, are the carb dampers free to lift and drop or sticky, contact breaker gap unless electronic ignition fitted, plug condition, even the engine earths could be a potential cause, does the engine spin at speed on the starter or slow down after starting, I had a problem some time ago when the choke operating lever fell off the second carb, it would start then become a blooter of ! until warm

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Changed the coil or made any changes to the wiring?

Early engines appear to use a 6V coil with ballast resistor - during starting the ignition switch supplies 12 volts to the coil to aid sparking whilst cranking to counter the battery voltage dropping.

If the LT connections to the coil are swapped over this will result in 6 volts for starting and 12 volts for running resulting in poor starting and a very hot coil whilst running and eventual damage.

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.........It is running on an electric fuel pump and the return is running fine could this pump be pushing to much fuel through and flooding the engine?

If that is an efi pump then the pressure will be way too high unless it is regulated. At a guess you should be running about 7psi for carbs.

Steve

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If that is an efi pump then the pressure will be way too high unless it is regulated. At a guess you should be running about 7psi for carbs.

Steve

The fuel pump is a Facet Electric pump would this produce to much pressure with out a regulator. There is a a return back to the fuel tank which is working.

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Changed the coil or made any changes to the wiring?

Early engines appear to use a 6V coil with ballast resistor - during starting the ignition switch supplies 12 volts to the coil to aid sparking whilst cranking to counter the battery voltage dropping.

If the LT connections to the coil are swapped over this will result in 6 volts for starting and 12 volts for running resulting in poor starting and a very hot coil whilst running and eventual damage.

I have changed the wiring a bit as the range rover running gear is now in a series 3 Hybrid. Would the above be true for electronic ingnition as this is a 1983 model

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This could be so mainy things and any more detail you can add would help, year of R/R, misfiring, poor performance etc, you could check the basics like oil level in carb dashpots, are the carb dampers free to lift and drop or sticky, contact breaker gap unless electronic ignition fitted, plug condition, even the engine earths could be a potential cause, does the engine spin at speed on the starter or slow down after starting, I had a problem some time ago when the choke operating lever fell off the second carb, it would start then become a blooter of ! until warm

It seams to turn over fine, the engine has been parked up for a while, it got an electronic ingition and I have changed the dizy cap and ht leads. I might clean up the next to see if this helps. Sounds like when it is trying start only one carb is working. Once it is going it is fine its just getting it going

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If you have fitted electronic ignition then you will require a 12 volt coil as this system works with a 12 volt supply to the ignition amp.

If you have a 6 volt coil fitted and wired such that it is applying 6 volts (via the ballast resistor for starting), then bypassing the ballast resistor once running (12 volts) this would cause problems starting but once running the engine would be fine.

If you have a 6 volt coil fitted and are not using a ballast resistor at all then 12 volts across the coil over time will damage it.

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Just for intrest my 1983 does not have a ballast resistor and hasnt for the 15 years I've owned it, does have a 12v coil and contact breakers, I have seen old coils breaking down under load, did you change yours.

worth a look at the carbs and linkage,choke pulls on the passenger side and is then linked to the other, just a silly thought but, is the choke going fully off, has the engine run properly after fitting the fuel pump etc, does it smell rich during warm-up.

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worth a look at the carbs and linkage,choke pulls on the passenger side and is then linked to the other,

All the Zenith Stromberg's I have had dealings with only have the choke on one carb, hence why they sound so awful when starting from cold.

SU's on the other hand do have a link so they both choke.

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All the Zenith Stromberg's I have had dealings with only have the choke on one carb, hence why they sound so awful when starting from cold.

SU's on the other hand do have a link so they both choke.

I have a set of sus on another engine may be worth putting them on?

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Absolutely! A far better option, and not hard to fit either.

On Tiny, my old 2dr pick-up, the choke had to be on for quite some time. Once I fitted the SU's the difference in driving and economy ws vastly improved.

Will do that then rebuild them with new needles and seals a while ago see if that improves things

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