DEANO3528

Not been on here for a good while. How are we all? I'm just trying to find out if there is a wiring harness/ribbon on the left side of the transmission tunnel? There used to be on the old Range Rovers as I found out to my cost when I drilled through it!!! Cheers in advance

Just to clear this one, changed the battery in the fob and it's back to normal thank you. One other thing I noticed is the fat that one of the strange non-flashings that occured was due to the bonnet not being fastened when I had the battery charger plugged in.

REverse light wiring on an Auto should be on the left hand side, possibly in a plug with 4 terminals. 2 for the reverse light and 2 for the starter inhibit.

I've just converted to hot wash. Remember reading it in an old 'Hot Car' magazine from about 40 years ago! Extended the piping across the top of the endine and wrapped 3 turns around the top heater hose. Bit of foil wrap tape around it and jobs a good'un. Hot water also seems to wash the screen better, but the screenwash seems to pong somewhat as a result.

Casper has 2" OME lift and was running 33/12.5x15 BFG MT's on 10x15 rims. Couple of months back I changed to 285/75x16 Cooper STT's on 10x16 -32 o/s modulars. Glad I did, as it transformed the drive. Well pleased with them.

Mansfield 4x4 at Bury st Edmunds is not too far from you up the A14. Give Ralph a ring on 01284 767174, they'd be my choice.

Aha! Nice one Teabag. Don't have a manual for that model only 200. Cheers Steve, it's a two button fob, I'll bung a new battery in it then. For the price it's a worthy place to start anyway. Will update when i get one.

One other thing I checked is the voltage of the fob battery which is showing as 3v. That's right according to spec I know, but aren't they usually higher reading than that? That might explain why the fob won't unlock it first time, although you'd think the fob would have more power on the first push than the second??? Grasping at straws a bit I reckon...

Have had a good look at the various posts but can't see my specific issue. So what happens? Okay, up until last week all has been fine, everything doing like it should. The vehicle stood for a couple of days and the battery was a little down so I stuck the charger on it. Now I locjk the vehicle and everything works as it should by key or fob. However, when I unlock I have to press the fob twice and I have lost the single indicator flash. The led flashes really fast for maybe 20-30 secs but the vehicle will start okay. Not a biggie I know but I know it's obviously not right. Ta in advance

I think you are being rather harsh in your statements about the Kuhmo's. I have found the KL71 a great tyre, extremely well-mannered on the road and when towing and great offroad. On sand, clay or even rock climbing they just took it all and got me along! And the reassuring part is that they are virgin carcasses, rather than second life chancers. Tried the retread option and won't be going there again, despite the apparent 'savings' in price. Yes the width becomes an issue: I prefer narrower tyres for that very reason but my motor had the arches done when I bought it so it was a toss up whether to go narrow rims and tyres with spacers (which I dislike immensely) or stick with similar to the 33/12.5x15 BFG MT's it came with. I chose 285/75x16 Cooper Discoverer STT's on 10x16 with neg 32 offset black modulars, from JCS. Not had a chance to get in some proper mud yet but on rocks and sandy stuff they are excellent, and they look very nice as well, suiting the body modifications.

Would I lie to you? To be sure I checked with both NTTA and an old RHA manual I have from my driving days which state: Braked trailers manufactured after Oct. 1982 require brakes that comply with EC Directives. If brakes are required, all wheels must be braked. (if manufactured in or after 1968) And as Ross quite rightly states, recovery companies use the exclusion of moving stricken vehicles to a place of safety. However I believe that has to be the 'nearest place of safety' if memory serves.

Another point is that any trailer over 750kg must have braking to all wheels in contact with the road and as such most towing dollies only have brakes on the dolly itself. Therefore most folk who use a dolly to tow their off roader to the pit are in danger of a ticket unless there is a means of braking the wheels of the towed vehicle that are not on the dolly. And this is my first post on LR4x4 for a heck of a long time!

300's are (in)famous for it. Had it happen to mine and have short term bodged it by judicious use of chisel along the edge which swells the (in my case almost brand new) pad backing enough to stop them dropping through. Looking at replacement soon though as I don;t like bodges like that.

I'm led to believe that rear worklamps should be switched from the rear so you can't use them as reversing lights. I have an ex-AA Vision Alert bar. Excellent piece of kit, it has the day/night facility on the rotators too as well as all the other wiring, however I plumped to wire the 4 together but it's like turning the sun back on in the middle of the night, especially on a snow shout. The other handy thing with these lights is that if mounted right, they slide down the back of the vehicle which is very useful in a low garage (like mine) or out laning. And yes they are strobes in the grille, from Ardent at Billing a couple of years back. Still not got around to fitting the rear ones yet.

Appreciated. It is now looking like a xmas spree judging by the various reports on forums of other 110's going over the holiday period.

Many thanks guys

Within the last hour from Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk My mate's Green 300Tdi 110 H/top with White roof and Patriot style roof rack M263 SFS If you see it please report to police immediately Thanks

I believe that Stanage now has a Voluntary agreement to travel E - W downhill, thanks to the sterling work of The Stanage Forum.

Well thanks all. TC, I didn't realise you could get such small flap wheels! Gazzer, I took a quick peep on eBay and I have to say hand reamers aren't as expensive as I expected them to be. I reckoned approx 29mm was the bush size after i'd extracted the part fitted one so if i bought a 27 to 30, that ought to do it?

Cheers guys, that rather reinforces my fears about the holes being too small due to the galvanising process. I did try a similar way to that described by Timmy so i guess it's reamer time. Christ on a bike! Where in hell will I get a borrow of one of them, I wonder?

Hi all, Not been on here for a while. Been fitting some stuff to the boy's ground up Ltwt resto. Couldn't get the original type bushes into the front chassis as the Galv seems to reduce the size fractionally, but enough to make the new bush swell and so baulk. So two LR bushes later I decided we'd PB he lot. Back ones went in a breeze but the front chassis ones are still causing problems. Basically they are a beautiful fit until I get the insert halfway in. Then the other side pushes out a couple of mil and this is enough to make them ride up over the shackle plate which will screw them in a very short time I reckon. Anyone got any ideas to get these damn things in so we can tick the box for that job. BTW I did put a slight chamfer on the insert and have tried washing up liquid and grease as a lube all with the same result. Cheers

Lots of info on these wonderful items at Carelect including pics of the units

Good news, glad to help.

I was going to do this to a 4 dr having previously done the same to a 2 dr. So I photoshopped an old picture for reference

Sounds like the lift pump. The injector pump will draw enough to run it but at high demand it can't keep up the supply. Something to consider anyway.