sheltie50

Are you sure ALL your heater plugs are working and of good quality, seen lots of the cheaper ones failing almost before being fitted.

On my one it was the detent units, they are screwed into the remote shift unit and have spring loaded balls, these can and do faill with time, I replaced by removing the centre consol and remote shift cover but shreaded all my fingers in the process, it woukd have been much easier to lower the rear of the gearbox a little, unless you have experiance I suggest you have someone do it for you.

Just to throw a spanner in the works-- Might save you a lot of bother just to find another engine.

Result ;-)

Sorry missed your post! (baccardi) Truly is a surprise if it's was a genuine L/R part but that could be the "sods law" effect, if the in-tank pump is noisy it's in trouble and might not pump with conviction. I bought one from a well known internet department which was a genuine part except that it wasnt :-(

I would suggest that this is your problem, it really shouldnt be noisy, if it is it's in real trouble!!

Maybe already though about but, is there any chuffing from the oil filer, what would happen if the front seal in the injection pump was shot, thats been seen before.

The recommended proceedure can take a few attempts, Your in tank (lift pump) could be faulty and could be the reason for other issues,can you hear it running.

Had the same last year, the clutch fork on the P38 Diesel is a two peice unit held together by silly little roll pins, the pins wear and snap causing the contents of the slave cylinder to run away in fear, all the fluid will have left home as well. Unfortunatly it means removing either the gearbox or engine, I've always removed the engine. Roll pins are cheap but the job will take a while, if you replace them with normal pins push smaller ones inside to give a little more beef.

Assuming you have a Disco 2 (td5) unfortunatly the bearings are not servicable, you need to replace the hub, it's not such a bad job but costs a bit.

Have a look at the air pipes to and from the intercooler inc the steel section which can rust through, and of course the air filter itself.

You will enjoy it and Orkney is a good and interesting place to visit.

It does sound as if you have a faulty relay but---Are you checking the glow plugs voltage when the engine is cold as the on time is reduced as the enging warms up, when hot you might not even get a blink. Any difference in starting cold or hot that could point you in the right direction. Any bubles in the clear fuel pipe at the injection pump. You tried another battery, any chance that both were low, and the cranking speed is slow, starters can wear without the owner being aware then the cranking speed is simply not fast enough to fire up. Maybe a little mor detail on the symptoms and effect of the fault would help.

If you look at my location, Rust could be an issue but might not be depending on it's use, ie: launching boats, farm work, climbing hills etc,

Have a trawn around the net and find a good copy of the RAVE cd, on it you will find everything you need to keep the P38 going.

Has some bu**ER left part procesed beer in your tank on his way home from the pub Must must be fuel related after all the work youve done, any chance of a crushed fuel line or air being sucked at tank pump etc.

Take your time, dont rush into something WRONG ! Any car with serious play in the steering didnt get that in a short time, Run away quickly ! I found a good one at 4500 and 97000Mls but it took a while to find it, a little mechy work required but nothing bad. Check the chassis very well before buying one though. The TD5 is a superb "motor" our one is returning around 30Mpg and will pull the house down if required.

I've seen something simillar on a Volvo, One exhaust box had collapsed, only found it when a bit shot out of the tail pipe and hit me in the leg ! On another thought, I had a moment after filling up my diesel with petrol, are you sure you have pure diesel in the tank. Is the fuel clean and when was the filter changed last.

Are you sure it's not just the latch or cable sticking or the return spring has fallen off, might be worth some oil and a new cable.

I found a very good one 2001 on 95000m at 4,500 but it took many miles around Scotland to find a good one. Take time to have a good look at the chassis the TD5 rusts in the same places as older models. Prone to cylinder head gasket failure which can be caused by water pump impeller failure, symptom of impeller failure is an engine which runs just a little hotter than it should. Check the steering ball joints the ones fitted at the ends of the axle are difficult to replace but not expensive to buy. Exhaust manifolds can warp especially if chiped or tuned. Ace pipes corrode inside the front drivers wheel arch and at other places. Rear air bag condition. Oil in injector plug harness cause poor performace. Sun roofs can leak and are often sealed up, repair is a but involved but not really a prob. Most of the above are easy fixes! and the Disco TD5 is a superb and capable vehicle, I'm getting 30ish Mpg from a car which will pull your house down but will have to replace the injector harness and a couple of steering ball joints.

While your checking the body condition please have a look under the rear wheel arches at the bottom of the C posts, the rear seat belt anchor's are a known corrosion spot, an easy fix but just another corner to be aware of.

At the risk of being shot down, anyone changed the air filter

Realistically, when you open this job up you will be opening a can of worms. Having said that the job can be done but take your time and do to thoroughly. The side panels will available and not to expensive, using new complete panels will save a lot of time and give a much better job. Recently done a rotten disco and we took eveything behind the seats away, fitted replacement side panels and rear xmember (the rear floor is fastened to it) Made a rear floor out of flat plate, it didnt cost a fortune and is stronger than original.

Even if you open the motor it will be wear in the stop mechy and you will then order a replacement motor.

Sounds like a prop shaft uj.