Rotor Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Hi Just removed the G-box on my 1985 110 2.5 n/a as 4th gear has gone and decided to remove the flywheel and replace the crank seal , the flywheel bolts are ____ing tight, any suggestions to removing? Will I have to remove the flywheel housing to get the flywheel out? Finally is changing the crank seal straight forward? Many Thanks In Advance, Rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 once the flywheel is off the crank rear seal is directly behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotor Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 once the flywheel is off the crank rear seal is directly behind it. I think we all know that, my question was about how to remove the fly wheel, Rgds Rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 I lock the flywheel with an old screwdriver and then use a breaker bar to crack the bolts. Once they are all out, put a couple of long m8 bolts opposite each other in the clutch cover holes. This will give you a couple of 'handles' to withdraw the flywheel off the locating peg (it's sometimes quite a tight fit) To remove the crank seal, drill a small hole in the face of it and put a self-tapping screw in it, then a pair of pliers or claw hammer to lever it out. Make sure the end of the crank that the seal lip runs on is nice and clean (wire wool or 1200 wet/dry to dress it), then a layer of grease on the crank and the lip of the seal and knock it in nice and square - taking care not to reverse the lip or damage it in any way. I use thread locking compund on the outer edge to make sure it doesn't come adrift. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest otchie1 Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 I lock the flywheel with an old screwdriver and then use a breaker bar to crack the bolts. Once they are all out, put a couple of long m8 bolts opposite each other in the clutch cover holes. This will give you a couple of 'handles' to withdraw the flywheel off the locating peg (it's sometimes quite a tight fit)To remove the crank seal, drill a small hole in the face of it and put a self-tapping screw in it, then a pair of pliers or claw hammer to lever it out. Make sure the end of the crank that the seal lip runs on is nice and clean (wire wool or 1200 wet/dry to dress it), then a layer of grease on the crank and the lip of the seal and knock it in nice and square - taking care not to reverse the lip or damage it in any way. I use thread locking compund on the outer edge to make sure it doesn't come adrift. Les. What you want is one of these My seal didn't need drawing out, it fell out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scumduggler Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 What you want is one of these My seal didn't need drawing out, it fell out Make sure seal is pushed in far enough so the flywheel doesn't rub on when refitted, it may spin the seal and make it leak again, like mine did and had to do it all again, g/box out and all. Some silly kone sealer will help it seal. Check you ring gear teeth are good befor reassembly! PS looking for a N/A flywheel & starter motor ( wrecked ring gear ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 I've got more N/A flywheels than you can shake a stick at 4 or 5 I think. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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