hattymender Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Hatty's due a refresh. Last done 3 years ago with a brush and, if I say so myself, looked rather fine until recently. But now she's peeling and fraying at the edges . At the weekend I came across 'Herbert's Epoxy Primer for difficult surfaces'. Rather a lot of it actually. Makes claims on label about sticking to ally and galv. Also states quite emphatically that it's dangerous stuff when it comes into contact with skin/eyes. Now I'm aware that spraying two pack is a dangerous game (cyanide in vapor?) but what about brush painting? One quick sniff of the hardener is enough to convince me that this is potent stuff and should only be handled in well ventilated area (20 acre field on a windy day?). Is brush painting this stuff still a 'no, no' with normal protective gear? Also. Hatty's doors leave a pile of rust when you slam them. So I've got some replacements in a splendid red. But Hatty's Bronze Green (the only real colour for a Land Rover? ). I was thinking of giving them a rub over to get a 'key' and shift any old polish then painting. But now I have gallons of two pack. Will this stuff paint over the existing paint and stick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael calvert Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 two pack (2k) paint is menat to be sprayed on primer and and metal paints are best used where exposed metal is showing before any pbasecoats / undercoates etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Bare alloy should be abraded clean then IMMEDIATELY coated with etch primer. U-Pol Acid 8 in aerosol form is very good. Get the Technical Data sheets for the material you have from the paint supplier. It will tell you how to use it. 2k is normally applied by spraying. Sound old paint is usually an excellent primer for new paint - needs cleaning & abrading to give the new paint a key - providing it is compatible with the new paint. Test paint a small area first. 2k isocyanate paints/clearcoats do not contain cyanide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Bare alloy should be abraded clean then IMMEDIATELY coated with etch primer. U-Pol Acid 8 in aerosol form is very good.Get the Technical Data sheets for the material you have from the paint supplier. It will tell you how to use it. 2k is normally applied by spraying. Sound old paint is usually an excellent primer for new paint - needs cleaning & abrading to give the new paint a key - providing it is compatible with the new paint. Test paint a small area first. 2k isocyanate paints/clearcoats do not contain cyanide. Clearcoat contains lead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hattymender Posted June 5, 2008 Author Share Posted June 5, 2008 "2k isocyanate paints/clearcoats do not contain cyanide." Good, wife's a bit dissapoited though I've been in my 'experimenting shed', mixed up a small batch and brushed onto some ally. It's curious stuff. Dries gloss, very thick almost like plastic coating. Don't see it being much use as a base for painting over but could be interesting as a finish in it's own right as it obviously has high aluminium content. There's not much on the tins to go on to get a spec. sheet but the DuPont site suggest that Herbert's made a 'plastic coating' paint. mmmm... chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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