disco_al Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 I reset the timing on the D1 3.5 v8 last night using a nice shiny new stroboscopic timing light (inductive type) to about 4-6 deg BTDC (Everywhere i have checked says the 9.35:1 comp engine should be timed at 0 deg ) to allow for the gas. whilst doing this i noticed that the vac advance unit is loose, so i tried to tighten the small cr*ppy torx screws that hold it, but no luck. The one is easy to get to, but the back one is tight on access, as the top hose etc is in the way. It doesn't move around that i can tell, and i don't think it's affecting the timing, but what is the best way to make sure it's secure? I did think about a blob of epoxy resin to hold it for now, and then remove the dizzy and sort it at a future date, before resetting the timing (again). Any suggestions from the v8 guru's most gratefully welcomed...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeyRover Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 I would go for a megajolt to be honest as you can have 2 maps then, One for LPG and one for petrol. Assuming that you don't want to go down that route, good luck, as I know the bolt you are talking about and i found it impossible to get to without stripdown of the other stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Some of the late 3,.5 EFI (flapper) engine were 0 BTDC ..........but it really depends on which dizzy is fitted. From 86 to 88 you could have 0, 3, and 6 BTDC or some of the ROW markets were 4 ATDC ............... Easiest was to find out is to strip the dizzy and see what number is stamped on the bob weights......then use the following to determine the static timing..... 28 - (bobweight x 2) = static timing. The number will be like this................ The electronic dizzy comes apart like so ............... the bobweight assembly is still on the shaft in the bottom right of the pic. You don't need to strip it this far though........ Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 5, 2008 Author Share Posted June 5, 2008 should have said, it's a 91 3.5 with hotwire AFM. megajolt/squirt would be nice, but cashflow prohibits anything major like that at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 OK............. strip the dizzy like above to see the weights, then you will have the definitive answer............. With the vacuum unit ................. the dizzy casting is Zinc alloy, known as Zamak, but the more popular generic name is Mazak (the first manufacturer of this process).......... otherwise known as monkey metal..... To secure the unit, just drill the holes a little bigger and use the next size up self tapper................ Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 5, 2008 Author Share Posted June 5, 2008 lovely stuff, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Take the vehicle for a drive & find a nice quiet piece of road. Switch to petrol. Get to about 30 in 4th then accelerate hard. If you don't get a 'rattling' sound then stop, advance the dizzy slightly. Repeat until you get the rattling. Then back off the dizzy until it JUST does it ever so slightly. That's as far advanced as you can really go & still be usable on petrol without fitting an electronic gizmo as LPG can be much further advanced. When you get home use the timing light to mark this position on the pulley. Which you may find bears no relationship to your previous setting using the existing marks! In the manuals my RRC should be TDC+/- 1deg. Set by the above - I normally run on LPG - it is around 8deg BTDC according to the marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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