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Bull Bar Cowboy

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  1. TBH, if its tight, then plug welding a nut on the end rarely does the job .................. A better solution that has always worked for me is to weld a bolt onto the end of the broken piece, this also has the effect of putting plenty of heat in the 'stud' and it will cause the ali bellhousing to expand a little and slacken its grip ............
  2. Bent rods and cracked turbo's are common on the T5's, especially if you drive them properly 😁 £396 sounds about right for a set of decent aftermarket rods and I would go with them ..................... its probably easier to drop the front subframe and take the engine out, rather than struggle with it in the car ............ Whilst you have it all in bits have a really good look at the turbo ................
  3. 255/55R18 = circumference of 91.2inches and does 695 revolutions per mile 255/60R18 = circumference of 94.3inches and does 672 revolutions per mile
  4. The 4204T is a Ford PSA DW10 engine that is also used in the S Max, Kuga, Mondeo .......... PUG 307, 407, 607, 308, & 508 .......... citreon, Fiat, & Suzuki have also used it in some models. Basically it is a good engine with smooth power delivery and known for longevity My Volvo V70 uses this engine and is now on 160K and on a recent run to France was still returning an average of 54mpg (fully loaded and crusing at 75mph) ......................... The EGR failure is a common fault and on the volvo application the only answer is to change it. Volvo use a pressure sensing system, so if you blank the EGR it will bring on the engine management light (which is now an MOT failure) ................. on the Ford / Pug applications the EGR can be blanked as they did not use pressure sensing. Mine went faulty at about 130K and I sourced an OEM valve from a third party supplier which was about £120. The symptoms are as you describe ............ rough idle that is also sometimes faster than normal. Also it will blow a good amount of smoke when you give it a boot full............No codes are usually shown but an OBDII check using 'Torque' showed me that the EGR failed the setup test (this shows that it wasnt closing quick enough or it was staying partly open) Changing the valve is a challenge ..................... it is at the back of the block and hidden underneath it is a 5mm Allen screw thay can only be undone by feel .......... a lot of people break off the bottom lug from the valve and then remove the bolt. You also need to clean all the pipework feeding the valve and then you are good to go fo another 100K + .............................. If you havent already done so, It will also pay you to change the inlet hose from the intercooler to the throttle body as at high milages these tend to develop tiny leaks at the throttle body end ........... a new pipe is £98 ............. you will know when its past it best as good burst of right foot will push it into limp mode and you also get a 'Pending boost pressure' code.
  5. Welcome to the club ! ………………….. This engine has suffered this issue in pretty much all applications, however, some are worse than others. With my Volvo V70 it is more of an irritant than an issue ………… at about 1800rpm under a particular engine load at a particular throttle setting you get this symptom of uneven running ……. Some describe it as misfire, others describe it as hesitation or stutter ………… to me it is like a misfire but it obviously isn’t, as the ECU would flag it in an instant. Check out the forums for the Mondeo, S-max, and focus ………… there is load written about it. Also look at the Peugeot 208 forums for similar info. Some of the Ford users claim to have cured it by blanking the EGR ……….. this you can safely do on a Ford and maybe the Peugeot’s, however, on my V70 application it is not an option as it will bring on the engine management light (MIL) ……… this is because Volvo look at EGR pressure as a management function. Changing the EGR was a good plan as these are known to fail on this engine at between 100 -150k – if yours is fitted as most others are, then it is a pretty unpleasant job to change due to the hidden allen bolt below the valve at the back of the engine, Most grease monkeys just snap off the lug and remove it afterwards ……… it is essential to clean all the pipework right through and past the EGR cooler ……………another known issue is the throttle body sticking (the throttle is electronic) ………. Just take it off and give it a good clean. Generally a good engine ……………. mine is pushing 140k with no real issues …………….. If you find a 100% solution to the problem, I guess you could end up very rich ! …………….. for me it is an irritant, it only happens very rarely ……… you just need the critical load and the critical throttle opening ……….. jumping on the loud peddle clears it in an instant.
  6. Hmmm........... showing my age here............ It was Mercury One2One (launched in 93/94 - IIRC the worlds 1st GSM 1800 network)................. which is now effectively T-Mobile.
  7. Stop being a bl00dy woman and grow some round ones ! .................. how yer doing Nige ?
  8. Feck'in wimp ................ its just a scratch ......... nothin wot a bit of superglue and a bit of lecky tape wont fix ................
  9. Sounds like it might have 'hydraulic-ed' from maybe diesel, water, or oil laying on the piston or trapped in the inlet. If this is the case then the metallic tapping will be the result of slightly bent conrods or cam follower damage. Are these raw water cooled or heat exchanger cooled ?
  10. Sounds like a lifter to me .............. probably one of them is not rotating and filling ........... looking at the top of each lifter might give you a clue. Have a good listen with a stethoscope to pin point the approximate location before you start tearing down. The rocker shafts wear very badly on the underside (the thrust side) ........... the rockers themselves also wear. However, the wear is taken up by the lifters so you rarely get noise from the top end valve gear .......... you just get less valve lift. If you fit new shafts, then also fit new rockers ............. a little heat is needed to get the posts off. Do both sides ! .................. then re- check the preload on the lifters as you have a non standard cam.
  11. It does ............. it is hidden deeply in the site preferences page and available only to business users. Once stock drops to zero, it is hidden but still a live listing, so it keeps its 'items sold ' numbers & page views.
  12. Dear Mr HFH, The following is the only frogesse that you will need on your trip ………. BTW ….. been there, done that. ça pute – a generalized vulgarity ça me fait chier, - mumble this at random je m’en fou – you will need this a lot Ta Gueule –shout this at 'off road toad' when the frogs are in earshot C’est vraiment des conneries - this is what you say to the course marshalls
  13. Erik, Yes, is true there are no oil stats on some engines, however, the manufacturer would have carefully calculated the oil capacity and flow to allow the oil to warm up in a reasonable amount of time and never to be allowed to drop below 80C. Your aftermarket rad probably has increased the total oil capacity and is more free flowing, therefore the original manufacturers calculations become null & void ! There is no point in increasing the PRV opening pressure if the system is not reaching that pressure at any point during the drive cycle. I would be inclined to check that the PRV is fully closed (and not stiff on closing) and that the gauge is functioning correctly. I think it may also be wise to fit an oil temperature gauge as you have now changed an ‘oil system’ component for something totally different. Cold / cool oil is ver bad for premature engine wear.
  14. Your oil should not be circulated to the cooler at oil temperatures of less than 80C. Most systems have an oil stat either in the sandwich plate on the pump or in the pipwork off the pump to the cooler. The oil temp should be ideally kept between 80 - 104C (according to the castrol boffins). Oil doesn’t really work well below 80C ........... that’s why in the UK vehicle emission’s are checked at the annual test with the oil temp at 80c or above. Fitting a 'stat' sandwich plate will restore the pressure to its former values as it will be just pumping to the engine during the oil warm up period. Changing the PRV setting by placing washers under the springhead is a bodge and probably wont have much effect as the actual pump pressure is not reaching the PRV opening pressure. The PRV plunger is a known fault with the rover pump and can sometimes stick due to scoring in the PRV bore. This is easily fixed with a dremel (or die grinder) and a light polishing mop. Using a tadpole valve can help, but even these stick if the scoring is bad.
  15. Drilling for an oversize bleed valve is fine, but you will have an issue machining the valve closing taper at the end of the bore. I would use a helicoil which will then keep the existing bleed valve size.
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