Bull Bar Cowboy

I have had this is before with my iphone 14 pro max after an Apple update. If you ring Vodafone, explain the problem, and they will send an SMS to your phone which automatically updaters the data settings and access point data.

Glad you are OK Dave, I guess you need to follow doctors orders now. I know sepsis only too well, my wife had it 6 times in 2019, and the first time we very nearly lost her, however, my daughter is a nurse and her intervention saved her mum's life. Once they got to the root cause, she has been fine since. After the first time, I knew the symptoms and the next 5 episodes I quickly rushed her to the A&E in the Volvo, laying in the back with the rear seat folded !

Not too bad Dave, been retired now 12 years and enjoying every minute, spending a lot of time fishing the Lyme Bay wrecks from my 6m RIB. I have come back into the land rover fold again, and late last year got a very low mileage (8k) MY19 Discovery Sport 240 HSE Black, Dynamic, Lux, with the GKN 'Active Driveline'. Research says to me that the ingenium in the 240hp configuration will probably be as reliable as the comparable Jag configuration. I think the key to success will be regular 10K oil changes (to avoid dilution), and I keep an eye on the DPF regens by using OBD2 MX+ to my iphone. The DS in the 150 & 180 configurations don't seem to allow the DPF to get hot enough, which causes protracted regen times and severe oil dilution, leading to timing chain failure and balance shaft bearing issues. I have still got the Cherokee KJ (I use it for towing the boat and my 2T Ifor). It is 20 years old now with 190k, and for the 1st time in its history the engine management light came on last week ! ............. The codes suggested a boost pressure fault, so I changed the boost pressure sensor (it has never been out in 20 years). This fixed the issue, but I noticed a tiny amount of oil pass through on the IHI turbo (Yes, I am being fussy here) , so I have had that rebuilt at Midland Turbo. I wish all cars were reliable like the Jeep, that VM engine has been a charm, a bit agri sounding but very reliable. You keeping well ?

It looks like one of the side light units has a bad earth, and is finding an alternative path via the headlight. As it is low current, the headlight will only be partially illuminated.

Loctite 638

Those ECU's do have a relatively common problem, however, it is probably beyond the scope of Joe average to fix. The power transistors (IIRC one for each bank) suffer from dry joints on the board. They are TO3 style and IIRC the emitter pin is the culprit. I had intermittent 4 pot / rough running before I went to MS on a 3.5, and it took me a while to track down the issue.

That is a clue ! ..................... Glowing manifolds normally indicates that the timing is a long way retarded, or, it is sufficiently retarded and is also running extremely rich. I would go with setting TDC with a dial gauge to check the timing first ................

Hi Dave ..... yes, fine thanks ............. these days I spend most of my time fishing on my boat, it is something I have always done, but I do a lot more of it now ........... but at the moment i am just getting cabin fever like everybody else !

You might get in there with a right-angled, air die grinder ......... some of the offerings from snap-on and blue point are really small now ..............

Hmmmm Ok....................That statement is just a tad 'drama queen' The government deem that going out on a bicycle is Ok ................. so cycling in your book is not dangerous in any way ? There should be no maintenance task on a motor vehicle that risks injury ............. the general idea is to manage the risk 🙄 TBH, I have probably had more accidents cutting the grass than working on vehicles and boats .................. However @Hybrid_From_Hell is a different matter ........... Nige needs to stay indoors for his own safety .......🤣

TBH, if its tight, then plug welding a nut on the end rarely does the job .................. A better solution that has always worked for me is to weld a bolt onto the end of the broken piece, this also has the effect of putting plenty of heat in the 'stud' and it will cause the ali bellhousing to expand a little and slacken its grip ............

Bent rods and cracked turbo's are common on the T5's, especially if you drive them properly 😁 £396 sounds about right for a set of decent aftermarket rods and I would go with them ..................... its probably easier to drop the front subframe and take the engine out, rather than struggle with it in the car ............ Whilst you have it all in bits have a really good look at the turbo ................

255/55R18 = circumference of 91.2inches and does 695 revolutions per mile 255/60R18 = circumference of 94.3inches and does 672 revolutions per mile

The 4204T is a Ford PSA DW10 engine that is also used in the S Max, Kuga, Mondeo .......... PUG 307, 407, 607, 308, & 508 .......... citreon, Fiat, & Suzuki have also used it in some models. Basically it is a good engine with smooth power delivery and known for longevity My Volvo V70 uses this engine and is now on 160K and on a recent run to France was still returning an average of 54mpg (fully loaded and crusing at 75mph) ......................... The EGR failure is a common fault and on the volvo application the only answer is to change it. Volvo use a pressure sensing system, so if you blank the EGR it will bring on the engine management light (which is now an MOT failure) ................. on the Ford / Pug applications the EGR can be blanked as they did not use pressure sensing. Mine went faulty at about 130K and I sourced an OEM valve from a third party supplier which was about £120. The symptoms are as you describe ............ rough idle that is also sometimes faster than normal. Also it will blow a good amount of smoke when you give it a boot full............No codes are usually shown but an OBDII check using 'Torque' showed me that the EGR failed the setup test (this shows that it wasnt closing quick enough or it was staying partly open) Changing the valve is a challenge ..................... it is at the back of the block and hidden underneath it is a 5mm Allen screw thay can only be undone by feel .......... a lot of people break off the bottom lug from the valve and then remove the bolt. You also need to clean all the pipework feeding the valve and then you are good to go fo another 100K + .............................. If you havent already done so, It will also pay you to change the inlet hose from the intercooler to the throttle body as at high milages these tend to develop tiny leaks at the throttle body end ........... a new pipe is £98 ............. you will know when its past it best as good burst of right foot will push it into limp mode and you also get a 'Pending boost pressure' code.

Welcome to the club ! ………………….. This engine has suffered this issue in pretty much all applications, however, some are worse than others. With my Volvo V70 it is more of an irritant than an issue ………… at about 1800rpm under a particular engine load at a particular throttle setting you get this symptom of uneven running ……. Some describe it as misfire, others describe it as hesitation or stutter ………… to me it is like a misfire but it obviously isn’t, as the ECU would flag it in an instant. Check out the forums for the Mondeo, S-max, and focus ………… there is load written about it. Also look at the Peugeot 208 forums for similar info. Some of the Ford users claim to have cured it by blanking the EGR ……….. this you can safely do on a Ford and maybe the Peugeot’s, however, on my V70 application it is not an option as it will bring on the engine management light (MIL) ……… this is because Volvo look at EGR pressure as a management function. Changing the EGR was a good plan as these are known to fail on this engine at between 100 -150k – if yours is fitted as most others are, then it is a pretty unpleasant job to change due to the hidden allen bolt below the valve at the back of the engine, Most grease monkeys just snap off the lug and remove it afterwards ……… it is essential to clean all the pipework right through and past the EGR cooler ……………another known issue is the throttle body sticking (the throttle is electronic) ………. Just take it off and give it a good clean. Generally a good engine ……………. mine is pushing 140k with no real issues …………….. If you find a 100% solution to the problem, I guess you could end up very rich ! …………….. for me it is an irritant, it only happens very rarely ……… you just need the critical load and the critical throttle opening ……….. jumping on the loud peddle clears it in an instant.