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Disco TD5 Hard starting and cutting out


Reng

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Any ideas why as TD5 will struggle to start. It is not the glow plugs as the problem persists even if the Engine is hot. When starting the engine has to be cranked for a long time and it sounds as if it is not firing. Once it starts large cloud of smoke billows out of the exhaust and it appears to run normally but the engine cuts out at no fixed interval. The fuel pump seems to run more than normal all the time.

So far replaced Fuel filter, Fuel pump checked pipes for leaks

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I would change the sealing washers under all the injectors and see what happens.

Someone has mentioned that we check this. Is it common the TD5 and will it also explain the cutting out while driving?

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...usual oil-in-the-wiring problem?

Check red connector on the ECU, if flushed with engine oil clean it, and then open cylinder head cover and replace/have replaced the injector harness, cleaning the five connectors on each injector.

Keep on cleaning the red connector on the ECU on a weekly basis, until oil stops getting there.

Remember to change injector harness every 2 or 3 years, to keep ahead of the problem.

If the above is of no avail, consider running a diagnostic session with a nanocom: you could also drive the vehicle recording all fueling parametres, and then examine the results with the graphic viewer, wonderful tool!

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Could be your starter motor screwing up the power to the ECU. This happened to us recently. Though that won't cause the engine to stop while running, come to think of it.

Do the easy bit first - look inside the red plug. If you are going to change the injector harness you might as well do the injector washers while you are at it. They can be a bit of a pig to get out - use a pry bar.

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The injector harness causes a misfire but rarely a non start or cutting out. The injector washer problem is not "common" but it "does happen" and would be my guess given the symptoms described. By all means check/change the injector harness first as it will be ruling out a future problem :)

If you change the injector washers be sure to follow the correct workshop manual procedure for re-setting the adjustment on the injector plungers because if you don't it will likely either not run right or break something expensive, depending on which way the adjustment is out.

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Oil in the harness doesn't produce any fault codes in my experience. The misfire that results from oil in the harness shows up on the injector balancing diagnostic as one or more injectors out of range, but I have yet to see an engine that actually cuts out because of the problem unless the oil has got into the ECU and killed it.

It might be that, but from my experience I would say it is less likely than the injector washers especially if the problem appeared suddenly - oil in the harness starts as a small misfire when the engine gets hot (fine when cold) and gradually gets worse. But of course I am not looking at it sitting in front of me :)

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And what will the stealer do if the injector harness doesn't fix the problem? What we do is put the tappet cover back to stop the oil going in all directions and start the engine. If nothing has changed, out comes the harness and the old one goes back in.

LR have a reputation here for changing all sorts of very expensive bits that don't make any difference and presenting the owner with a car that still doesn't go and a big bill. And not even the old bits back unless you give them hell.

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