Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I have a 70mm lift and the gwyn lewis setup. Would I be best to buy 6 degree correction arms or settle with 3 degree. Would 6 degree give me a little more drop? Or just kill my front prop? It is off road only btw TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 If its off road only why are you bothered? And i would go for corrected swivels as pointing the diff nose up is bennificial to the prop angle under travel, i pointed the diff nose on my back axle at the transfer box and even under silly amounts of travel the lower uj is not even close to binding. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 It is pulling on the bushes too much. Corrected swivels are too much hassel IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rizla 1 Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 If its offroad only get the grinder out and cut a V correct the angle and weld up - I done it loads they weld great no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Which bushes is it pulling on? the ones to the chassis? AFAIK the corrected arms do not solve this although i could be wrong, Why not just bend the ones you have? Si hinted that he os working on some front ones so why not wait for these? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Have just bought some OME castor bushes with arms for £20, so will put these on and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Have just bought some OME castor bushes with arms for £20, so will put these on and see what happens You will loose articulation as there will be less movement in the axle end bushes. Also caster correction will not help if you are running into issues with the chassis end bush. This is unlikely unless you are running a huge amount of lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 You will loose articulation as there will be less movement in the axle end bushes. Also caster correction will not help if you are running into issues with the chassis end bush. This is unlikely unless you are running a huge amount of lift. Ok I also have some 3 degree qt arms. Will they restrict the front articulation as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Nope but they might bend Neither castor correction arms or bushes will improve the situation at the chassis end, if you want more 'flex' you can drill the bushes, if you want to ease the stress on the chassis bushes you need to bend the arms. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young bobtail Rhys Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 How do I go about drilling the bushes then? Apart from the obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 pretty obvious really, i'd go for a ring of 4-8 holes but my motor is really wallowy anyway so poor handleing wouldnt bother me, obviously the more holes the more flex up to a certain point i would guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 What Will said ^^^^ The idea problem with getting articulation with the hockey stick arrangement is the inherent anti roll characteristics - to get more you have to loose some of this. not trying to teach you to suck eggs but from your post I'm not sure you've got the grasp of what's going on. With a hockey stick arrangement as one wheel moves down that side of the axle 'wants' to move down in an arc defined by the hockey stick. Because this mounts at 2 points on the axle the angle of the axle also wants to change (in the case of droop the castor angle 'wants' to reduce). The opposite is true for the other side of the axle which will be in bump travel - the castor angle will want to increase as the axle rolls upwards. If the bushes were solid the axle wouldn't articulate - the difference in rotation is taken up by deformation in the bushes hence why slotted/holed bushes help here but they will not improve on road handling. My description may not be the best however to demonstrate it go and get a broomstick and hold it in cupped hands with your forearms held horizontal. Now move one hand upwards relative to the other pivoting it at the elbow - the stick will rotate in one of the hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Nope but they might bend Neither castor correction arms or bushes will improve the situation at the chassis end, if you want more 'flex' you can drill the bushes, if you want to ease the stress on the chassis bushes you need to bend the arms. Will. There are castor correction radius arms that are also bend to improve at the chassis end. The QT 6° version definetly has a bend in it so as to be level at the chassis end. As for drilling the bushes, I found that a big hole (10mm) straight above and below the bolt-hole gives great improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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