NicTheOrange90 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Not electrical, but after a clunk they stopped about two inches lower than normal... Wiper motor still making same noise. Both arms are still linked (ie move one and the other moves) but are not free to move by hand. Me thinks something has come adrift in motor/drive department....... Anyone any experience of the later (post 2002) models which seem to be different to earlier versions. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Nic, I have an '02 110, I had a similar problem with the wipers just before Christmas. When I took the dash apart (what a fiddle that is!) is became apparent that the tube which carries the rack from the motor to the offside wiper box wasn't clamped to the box as it should be. From the look of things I guess it left the factory like this. I replaced the rack and wiper boxes, bolted the thing together properly and it's now fixed. Hope that helps, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 This is something that I am also struggling with. A td5 99 110. There is a "clonk" after every " Swish" Talked to a mate who did this operations and like above, it is a fiddle!!! Wish someone has directives as to how it looks inside there!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 .... I replaced the rack and wiper boxes, bolted the thing together properly and it's now fixed....Phil. Phil, did you get new parts or second hand, and what sort of money are we looking at ? My 110 has 140,000 on the clock so I am not complaining... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Nic, I got new parts locally, the cost was about £40-£50. The rack was clearly damaged, the wiper boxes didn't seem to be. Nevertheless, I replaced the lot to save myself having to strip the dash again! Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Recently replaced a wheel box on my td5. the WHOLE dash has to come out. get the parts and spend the whole weekend doing it. What a ball ache. Search for "wheel box" links, there is a full write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 It was the cable or track as its called, it had snapped as it goes into the ferrule. Sadly beyond repair but o the plus side its only a fiver for a new one. Sadly the Defender is off the road on the snowiest day of the year (in Kent) so took the opportunity to work from home. Main dealer ordered me on in for tomorrow. Im not going to replace anything else as Im too tight and it all seemed to work before. Its the best part of £120 for a new everything for a 2002MY Defender. It will be the weekend before I get to put it all back together so Ill see if its a saving or false economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 Getting new track tomorrow morning. Ive been wondering about how to put it all back together once I strip out old track. Is it just a matter of takiing the arms off and putting all bits back in then aligning the wiper arms afterwards or is there a more formal way of doiing it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 remove the wiper arms/blades, fit the new drive cable to the motor, give it a good helping of grease [castrol LM or similar] then feed the cable into the tubesas it gets to the first wheelbox gear which will rotate as you feed in, keep feeding it in it'll pick up the 2nd wheelbox gear which will rotate, feed in until the tube meets the wiper motor, screw on the tube nut, fit the electrical plug & earth lead & securing clamp, test the motor before refitting the arms/blades, the whheelbox shafts will oscillate back & fore, turn off & refit the arms/blades, retest, adjust the arms to get the sweep correct, when happy then refit the dasn end part & job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Top man ! Ill give it a go and let you know if I managed to follow your simple instructions OK ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Ralph's instructions seem very clear to me, although to be honest I found the worst part to be stripping and replacing the dash! The various pieces are held in place by a bewildering assortment of screws of all sizes and shapes, it's worth taking care to be sure you can identify which goes where! Good luck, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 OK I was a little late starting as the V70 had a headlight bulb blow so wanted to get that fixed first (man they make them tight to get in behind the headlamps)... Anyway, had already stripped out the dash at the weekend, so it went back together well. Instructions were top notch and I only ended up with one self tapper left over ! (reminds me of Captain Lockheed and the Starfiighters!)... Just as I finished it stopped raining, but a few applications of H20 with the hosepipe and it seems to have worked. The wipers actually go to the full extent of the screen now (before it was a bit hit and miss). So if your wipers seem to wipe more on some days than others, be warned the cable inside your dash might be going the same way as mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 top result I'd say, only 9/10 cos you had 1 screw left over 1 behind the LR badge on the left end cap 2 small head screws in the handle lower face & U shaped trim section along the dash edge 3 that hold the lower left corner part in place 1 in the check bar trim cover if you took it off, think that's all from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Think of the weight saving Ive made by leaving the self tapper out ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Think of the weight saving Ive made by leaving the self tapper out ! just carry the self tapper & leave the 110 at home even more weight saved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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