western Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 when I'm home tomorrow from work, I'll have a look at the wire mine is connected too & see what size it is & do a volt check at various key/ign settings too for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Ralph don't put yourself out. The white wire it's connected to is around bell wire diameter, there is another one thicker but it's 3 times as thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 not a problem, will still check for you shortly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Found another white wire today Ralph, just a little thicker than the one I had attached to, I put my current reader on to it and was live and more stable than the previous one so I have swapped it over. All looking good, and for the money the temp gauge and sender is a bargain, come with adapters which went straight in to my 200 Sorry about the pic quality taken from my blackberry, and that is Diesel not water on the block as I found a split on the fuel rail pipe which has only been on 2 weeks!!!! just seen my fuel gauge aswell they goes £10 of derv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 very smart to techie for a defender though had a look at mine, I took the voltmeter feed from the large rubber multiplug behind the instrument pack as IIRC that's where the LR original voltmeter was connected too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 very smart to techie for a defender though I will return to my cupboard and create a new diagram put all the part numbers in Excel and create a power point presentation on how to fit them, techie don't know what you mean Ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 I will return to my cupboard and create a new diagram put all the part numbers in Excel and create a power point presentation on how to fit them, techie don't know what you mean Ralph go on then, jump to it. have you done that write up yet, stop loitering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 On 2/17/2009 at 6:20 PM, western said: been fitted at least 5 years IIRC. hasn't caused any leakage as it is, the parts I noted on the modified parts page are [were] used on the 2.5 TD engine & will fit all the 2.5 4 cylinder engines in 90/110 & may even be possible to fit to a 300Tdi engine. zulublue -- gauges are standard 52mm diameter, my oil temp & oil pressure sit in a dashtop pod, easy to read & lit by green leds at night. measured the oil pressure adaptor it's 40mm from the filter head face to end of adaptor [not including the oil pressure light switch.] noted on photo below Thread revival alert! @western do you still have this set up? I'm looking how I can fit my oil temperature sender with out drilling into the sump. I see this is for your oil pressure sender, how did you fit your oil temperature sender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Yes still working fine, Oil temp sender screws into forward edge of the oil filter housing, between the arms of the injection pump to engine block bracket as shown in photo, there is a big screw blanking cap [item 5] on the diagram just below the hand drawn oil temp sender PRC4372, it comes out & the oil temp sender screws in. the female spade connector slides on to the sender circular terminal, if you use a fully insulated terminal you will have to cut part of the sleeve away to allow it to fit the sender. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Superb, thank you Ralph. Even including the part numbers for the add on bits and pieces for both senders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 If your using non Land Rover gauges get the matching senders as well, I swapped from LR senders/gauges to VDO items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 I got the Stack guages which came with the corresponding senders. I have checked for the banjo and extension piece in your diagram (ETC4034 and ETC4033) and the are not available so I was thinking of using the port for the oil pressure switch. If memory serves me well the Stack Oil temperature sender was an M10 thread size, I will have to look up the presure sender dimensions. Do you know what the thread size is on the oil filter housing for the blanked off port you used for the oil temperature sender and that for the oil pressure switch? When I look up the part number for the oil pressure switch it does come up with M10 thread. If it is M10, I find that odd for a Land Rover of the 20th century! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 (edited) Oil pressure & temp sender threads in - - - - Quote Sender threads: Oil pressure switch M10x1 Oil temperature sender: : M16x1,5 (Goes in the place where blind plug ETC4021 is located; oil filter housing, facing forward. Plug goes out, sender goes in. For those who wonder if oil will pour out of the hole once you removed the plug: not if you allow the oil to seep into the oil sump, so leave the good old landy alone for an hour if you don't want to make a mess.) Now the oil pressure sender is a bit of a problem as there is not enough room for the 4,6cm diameter pot to fit in place of the original oil temp switch. There are 3 options: 1. The option described above by Western (Banjo fitting) 2. Buy a M10x1 T-piece (1x male, 2x female) that you screw into the original oil pressure switch hole and screw the VDO pressure sender into the side port (hoping that it will point into a direction that actually allows you to screw anything into it) and the original pressure switch into the end port of the T-piece. T-Piece can be found at Dingocroft, item ZZLMA050. Side port of this T-piece is 1/8" x 27 NTPF, so you will need a fitting oil pressure sensor. 3. Discard the old pressure switch and buy a VDO pressure sender with an integrated switch. You will still need some kind of adaptor or extension to move the sender away from the oil filter housing. You can still use the above mentioned T-piece, but cover the sideport with an M10x1 bolt or the old sender if you can actually reach the hole to achieve this. So parts needed (VDO part numbers): 350-030-003G: Oil pressure gauge 0-5bar 310-030-003G: Oil temperature gauge max 150deg C 332-030-001G: Voltmeter 12V All items have the large white nut to fix it in the dash/console. So no old fashioned metal strips/bars. Sensors: 323-801-004-012C: Oil temp max 150deg C M16x1,5 (length of thread + sensor tip = 29mm, M4 knurled nut for contact attachment), add a copper crush washer. Alternative is 323-801-012-001D (length 15mm. 6,3mm flat contact 90deg angulated) 360-081-029-001C: Oil pressure 0-5 bar M10x1, without warning contact. Alternative is 360-081-030-002C, M10x1 with warning contact, if you decide to discard the old pressure switch, just hook up the warning contact cable to the warning contact on the sender. Of course you can get any oil pressure sender as long as it fits the thread in your T-piece or other adaptor and of course is compatible with your gaug From this post Edited April 12, 2021 by western 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 (edited) Thanks for that Ralph. I have found that my oil pressure switch in the 19J is a 1/8"NPT thread. I think if I get the correct T piece from merlin motorsport it will allow the bulky Stack sender to sit out of the way of the oil cooler pipes and let me retain the oil pressure switch. I've now got to figure out what bonkers thread is used on the blanking plug at the front of the filter housing where I plan to put the oil temp sender. I'm hoping for M12 but I bet it isn't! Edited April 13, 2021 by monkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 1 hour ago, monkie said: Thanks for that Ralph. I have found that my oil pressure switch in the 19J is a 1/8"NPT thread. I think if I get the correct T piece from merlin motorsport it will allow the bulky Stack sender to sit out of the way of the oil cooler pipes and let me retain the oil pressure switch. I've now got to figure out what bonkers thread is used on the blanking plug at the front of the filter housing where I plan to put the oil temp sender. I'm hoping for M12 but I bet it isn't! See the 1st line in the quoted text above & repeated here [the same oil filter head is used on all 2.5 4cylinder engines petrol, n/a & TD diesel & 200Tdi.] Quote M16x1,5 (Goes in the place where blind plug ETC4021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 I think I misunderstood what it was saying. I thought it was saying the Land Rover oil pressure switch was an M10 thread - mine is not. I have ordered the relevant T-piece from Merlin Motorsport as well as the adapter for the M16 port now I finally got the blanking plug removed. I had to remove the vacuum pump and throttle linkage to the FIP to be able to swing a spanner in there to get it undone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 I have the adapters and went to fit them this evening. The 1/8" NPT T-piece fits well. The M16 er well isn't M16 on my 19J. It seems to be about 1mm smaller diameter. Can't say I was shocked that it wasn't metric. Nevermind. I have put the pressure sender and temp sender on the T-piece and put the blanking plug back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 Should be metric thread LR went metric for 90/110, the genuine temp sender fits all the 4 cylinder pre 300tdi engines, it was a option since 110 & 90 came into production. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 The only other possibility is that I have the wrong adapter from Merlin. I will get an M16 nut and try it out. It was definitely larger than the blanking plug diameter wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 I measured the 2 broken oil filter heads I have, the blanking plug is approx 16mm from tip to tip of the thread measured across the diameter, I'm wondering if its a imperial thread like the 200tdi coolant temp sender which on the 11L engine ids 5/8UNF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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