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Milemarker question


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Stephen,

Yes, it’s been a long time thinking ………….plus work got in the way big time. Three / four days a week I commute to either Winchester (the land of Moglite …. Bit like middle earth !) or London :angry: ……… where I spend most of my time in meetings with complete ejits <_< !

There ARE other options that would involve using a toothed belt, a decent sized pump (cheap as chips) and an electric clutch built into the pulley ……….. OEC are working on this but it may be some time coming ……….. in the mean time I have decided to bite the bullet and get a maxidrive PTO pump.

BTW: Is your email address still the same ? mine has changed and although I have mailed you in the last month or two I don’t seem to be getting any delivered / read confirmation ?

Ian

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Ian,

yes my email is still the same sluxton at horizon dot some other stuff .... not changed in 8 yrs

just checked and the last email I have from you is Sep 05 though.... def nuttn in the last couple of months? I have your Arquiva addy... just sent you a test to see if you get it

Toothed rubber belt (like a timing belt) would be the best thing IMHO, something that if it snapped wouldn't wipe out half the front of the engine, which is why I'm not keen on the Type R arrangement! one of the nice things about the current MM is that it doesn't matter what breaks or blows up I still have a 100% functional vehicle, if a chain breaks at 3000rpm that isn't going to be the case....

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Toothed rubber belt (like a timing belt) would be the best thing IMHO, something that if it snapped wouldn't wipe out half the front of the engine, which is why I'm not keen on the Type R arrangement! one of the nice things about the current MM is that it doesn't matter what breaks or blows up I still have a 100% functional vehicle, if a chain breaks at 3000rpm that isn't going to be the case....

Fenner - HTD TDP3 30mm belt driving 44 tooth sprockets, good for 80kW and 100m/sec drive speeds, gives a matainance factor of 1.7 and suitable for hard starts with a smooth prime mover, Type R pump torque is 80Ft/lbs and thats easily in spec, Im not comfy with the chain and sprocket situation but will revert to it if the belt shows any signs of having a paddy

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Interesting - got any close up pics? can't remember seeing anything specifically of the winch in the ones you have posted in the past

what about sprockets to fit a 300Tdi crank?

my thought is that if a rubber belt has a paddy it won't be the end of the world, if a metal chain has a paddy it might be the end of several expensive bits of engine and radiator.... bit like plasma versus steel wire argument really :)

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having had a chain let go twice on my classic bike I can vouch for the damage it can do, loss of the alloy oil spinner on the primary chaincase, a rather bent chain guard and chunks removed from the rear mudguard, I buy West German chains now as the Reynoulds stuff being made now is rubbish <_<

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Yes I too have had the "HOW much does a new casing for a Japanese bike engine cost?!" experience..... one reason I ain't gonna see a chain on the front of the 300!

wouldn't be so bad if it was only engaged when winching - its the idea of it running all the time that I don't like, that and the fact that this is a very dusty environment in summer which doesn't agree with bike chains so won't agree with this

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Yes I too have had the "HOW much does a new casing for a Japanese bike engine cost?!" experience..... one reason I ain't gonna see a chain on the front of the 300!

wouldn't be so bad if it was only engaged when winching - its the idea of it running all the time that I don't like, that and the fact that this is a very dusty environment in summer which doesn't agree with bike chains so won't agree with this

an interesting one I heard from a chain suppliest at a bike show on the weekend, was that during WW2, the British army in North Africa did not lube the chains, the left them totally bone-dry as it prevented the possibility of the oil picking-up dirt and dust and acting as a grinding paste, never heard it before :)

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wouldn't be so bad if it was only engaged when winching - its the idea of it running all the time that I don't like, that and the fact that this is a very dusty environment in summer which doesn't agree with bike chains so won't agree with this

The type R chain arrangement is a 30 second fit/remove jobby, 1/2" pitch with a joining link, the chain mass is considerably less than say a 525 from a bike so the damage caused if it did go west would be pretty minimal - having said that running it in a guide with a slipper deflector would spit it out in controlled manner, most of the guys running them just pull the chain off for normal trundling about and only put it on when they are going off road, seems to work well enough for them :)

you could run a 525 o ring if lifespan is an issue with a scottoiler or a motec oiler (way better than a scottoiler IMO) or a DID X ring

not sure my belt pics would be any good for ya as I run a totally different engine :( have a look at the Fenner site, theres a drive designer program which makes it a walk in the park to calc up, it even gives a call-off for all the parts needed (including part numbers) and a contact number for your nearest supplier :blink:

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