forestgrump Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Another consideration when you chip a landy is stopping My TD5 has been re-mapped by Jeremy Fearne and had the intercooler replaced with a larger one, the exhaust has been de-catted and a straight through pipe put in. The transfer box is disco ratio. The engine re-map brings power up to about 185bhp. Overall this is good news, the defender can cruise at 70 ( I fitted noisekiller soundproofing, on long runs I use bfg all terrain, the mud tyres are v. noisy ). Fuel consumption improved, I return around 28mpg, even though I fitted a Patriot roof rack and a heavy winch. In London traffic the vehicle is more than capable of keeping up and sounds spectacular, especially when going through tunnels. However .... on a run back into town during rush hour, I'd been driving for 2hrs through some very heavy congestion, I found myself behind a fiesta that could stop much quicker than I, my brakes just faded away. This is my first RTA in 17 years and over 500,000 miles, quite a bit of that driven in a very powerful VW Transporter, so I'm fairly sure I'm an OK risk on the road ! Now the Landy has a nice big set of uprated brakes and some extra sticky pads. Fortunately I wasn't going all that fast so the collision caused no injury and the Fiesta managed to make it home OK, but as an illustration I'm posting the result of crumple zone technology interfacing with Land Rover durability. I thank God it wasn't a child that ran out it front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Interesting, What did you actually do to upgrade the brakes? Did you fit larger disks/calipers or just fit uprated versions of the stock parts? I do think the solid front disks fitted to most 90's will be a bit useless, however the 110 vented items shouldnt be too bad, as the vents will help cool the disks down... As an example, the A8 my engine came from weighs about the same as a 90, came from the factory with 300hp, and has 314 or 323mm disks (depending on year) so the 300mm items on the 90 really arent that bad, and i think with good brake fluid and pads the standard vented disks should be up to the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forestgrump Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Interesting, What did you actually do to upgrade the brakes? Runs on 110 vented discs and callipers, had a look at the comp. kit and thought on my rough country shocks and old man emu springs I probably couldn't withstand the G forces of stopping any quicker ........ also the brake lines were all upgraded to a nice stainless braided hose. I thought about adding a little decal of a ford fiesta with a line struck through it, air ace style, but decided against it The driver of the Fiesta had only one comment " got to get myself one of those Land Rovers " ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new2defenders Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 - get a sticker for the back door of your defender "You can go fast, I can go anywhere" That is a great idea!! I'm going to buy one now... Drove behind a disco with a sticker reading "I like to do it in the mud" I thought that was also pretty comical but between the two i reckon i'll 'stick' to yours. (that was a horrible pun) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Hi All, Thought I would put this in here about extra oomph, just to say,yesterday I got a stage one remap from porny(Ian) on the forum for my TD5 and it has made such a difference!! It has made the car much more drivable every day, you don't need to change gear as often as the additional torque is such an improvement!!! It pulls much better than it has ever done, and it drives better than other remapped TD5's i have been in and driven! The acceleration is improved as well, however it wasn't the main reason why I got the remap... If you do go down the remap route I would seriously recommend going to him for a remap, as it is the best remapped defender I have ever driven!!! Thanks again Ian!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Another consideration when you chip a landy is stopping .............................. However .... on a run back into town during rush hour, I'd been driving for 2hrs through some very heavy congestion, I found myself behind a fiesta that could stop much quicker than I, my brakes just faded away. . seems strange that, as i have never ever had the brakes on my 90 fade before no matter how i drive or where. Last time i smelt cooking brakes on my 90 was setting out a navigational challenge (road based nav scatter) around the west yorks + derbyshire peak district and i spent a whole day driving as fast as i dared around all the nav points and special sections in an attempt to get all the points in my proposed time limit for the event. Going around the hilly twisty bits near bluejon and speedwell caverns i got the brakes very hot and smelly. Pedal feel went all stiff and they stank like mad, but they still pulled me up nice and hard with no fade in evidence. Granted, the disks pads and brake fluid were only a month old - but i would still have the same confidence to do the same with my 90 18 months down the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 One last thing: Allard, in trying to flog full size intercoolers for TD5s, maintain that you get a very decent appreciable increase in available power just from upgrading intercooler and hoses. If you take a long-term view, intercooler first, then map to that, would make more sense - it's just not the fastest way tow ring out as much power as possible in the short term. Ian might have something to say about that cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 i think what often happens is that when ANY vehicle spends most of its time tootling around with the brakes not working very hard, the pads glaze over. Try an emergency stop with glazed pads and you'll get pretty bad fade very quickly, and if its from motorway speeds you'll be surprised at how little the brakes can do if the pads are badly glazed. I've had complete fade before in a previous car, slowing from ~60 on an A road after i realised i was about to overshoot the turning i wanted. Braked hard and by the time the car had slowed to about 40 they were doing nothing. Standing HARD on the pedal and it felt like i was only feathering it. Needless to say i missed the junction. Cheap pads are also ****e, and glase over much quicker than good pads. To break down the glazing you basically need to kick the hell out of the brakes, for example doing 60->5mph stops 10 times in a row, then letting the brakes cool down properly before coming to a halt will often sort the pads out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 To break down the glazing you basically need to kick the hell out of the brakes, for example doing 60->5mph stops 10 times in a row, then letting the brakes cool down properly before coming to a halt will often sort the pads out. Its often recommended that this is a good way to bed brakes in (AFTER they have risen to operating temperature or you;ll warp the discs). My BMW 5 series like most of the E39 BMWs is prone to brake shimmy braking from 60-40. Bedding them in 6 times as above (when new and occasionaly after that) drastically improves this. Bedding in like this causes a good even layer of friction material to build up on the disc that the pad interacts with. Remember to drive around for a bit after doing it to let the brakes cool properly though, so try to pick a time/place when you;ll not get stuck in traffic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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