New Defender 110 csw 300TDI owner

[ldtopham]

Hello, I have just bought a Defender 110 CSW 300TDI and thought I would introduce myself.

I am new to LR ownership but have driven a few mostly on road with a little off roading (including a course in N.Yorks) in previous employmnet. I live in West Yorkshire and have an interest in all things mechanical, mainly 4 wheeled but used to be into bikes too. I work in development for a large diesel engine company and get a lot of time working on engines, turbos' and fabricating.

We (the wife and I!) have just bought the above for throwing the kids bikes/ pushchairs in as well as tip runs and general weekned work. I fancied it as I knew I would be able to get plenty of 'spannering in' and the wife liked the idea of 12 seats (3 kids are enough but handy to be able to take friends out with us). The kids needed no convincing, one look at one and they were sold I have always liked the character of the LR and the fact that it is a British icon had me sold. I bought a vehicle which I know needs some work but the chassis is in a condition that allows me to carry out most other repairs without taking it off the road for too long. It is a second vehicle for us.

I have been on the hunt for a 110 CSW with tips from various sites on what to look out for when buying for about a month. I viewed 3 in total, above, below and on budget to get a feel of what I would get for my money. I managed to find a low mileage 2 owner 1997 CSW that has spent the last 9 years on a small holding. I think the underside has never been cleaned as everything had about 4" of dry mud protecting it. Needless to say the chassis is in excellent conditon and the original factory finish is clearly intact. The bulkhead is perfect as is the original rear cross member. Overall it is in sound condition.

It isn't without fault though as I clearly need to undertake some mechanical repairs. Mainly (in order that they bug me):

- Lash in the drive line is obviously excessive, not worked out where to start on this one yet.

- The cam belt requires replacemnt as I have no receipt for works (65,000mile to date)

- Engine service for piece of mind.

- The steeering has more play than I would expect, already looked into this and the steering box seems to be where most of the input is dissapearing.

- The front RH caliper seizes if not driven for 2 days, piston/ seal cx

- Check all the usual bushes and ball joints as some are shot just by visually checking

- The wheels are non standard and I would prefer to replace them with an original style but am not sure what was original fitment?

I have sorted security the best I can, going on recommendation of previous posts.

That's about all for now. I have read the newbie intro and can see a mine of info to trawl through. Is there a membership fee or is it donation only? I am a member of another vehicle club and maintain membership to help the web site running as it has been invaluable in it's info and will do the same here. Maybe even contribute once I work out my way around the thing!!

Regards,

Lee

[western]

Welcome Lee.

the forum runs as a free members site BUT you can make a donation as & when you want too, PLease click the 'Funding' button below the LR4x4.com title bar at the top of every page, details of how to make a donation are in there.

we have a good tech archive to, click here

[ldtopham]

Welcome Lee.

the forum runs as a free members site BUT you can make a donation as & when you want too, PLease click the 'Funding' button below the LR4x4.com title bar at the top of every page, details of how to make a donation are in there.

we have a good tech archive to, click here

Thanks for the welcome Ralph. I followed the link in your sig

Having spent the last hour browsing the tech archives it would appear I have a lot to check out. I will start with the cambelt change.

Cheers,

Lee

[western]

I forgot the donate link in my sig, what a complete doughnut

[RichardAllen]

Thanks for the welcome Ralph. I followed the link in your sig

Having spent the last hour browsing the tech archives it would appear I have a lot to check out. I will start with the cambelt change.

Cheers,

Lee

Lee,

Welcome to the forum and the delights of Defender ownership. You will find on here that almost all advice is sound, unless it is clearly jokey. This is unique in my experience of forums. The technical archive is particularly spot-on, and I regularly print articles off before replacing a cross member, taking off a cylinder head etc. You may find the driveline lash is just what these vehicles do, they are certainly more agricultural than a normal road car. The same goes for the steering, but best check it out for safety if nothing else, likewise brakes.

The cambelt change article in the Technical Archive is excellent, and the trick for getting the crankshaft pulley botl off works a treat. There is a similar article on Difflock's website, but they do try to sell you a lot of tools you don't really need.

All the best, looking forward to your contributions

Regards

Richard (Saving for a 110 to go with my 90)

[ldtopham]

Lee,

Welcome to the forum and the delights of Defender ownership. You will find on here that almost all advice is sound, unless it is clearly jokey. This is unique in my experience of forums. The technical archive is particularly spot-on, and I regularly print articles off before replacing a cross member, taking off a cylinder head etc. You may find the driveline lash is just what these vehicles do, they are certainly more agricultural than a normal road car. The same goes for the steering, but best check it out for safety if nothing else, likewise brakes.

The cambelt change article in the Technical Archive is excellent, and the trick for getting the crankshaft pulley botl off works a treat. There is a similar article on Difflock's website, but they do try to sell you a lot of tools you don't really need.

All the best, looking forward to your contributions

Regards

Richard (Saving for a 110 to go with my 90)

Funny you should mention the tool sales pitch as I read the Difflock article yesterday and thought just the same! I have the tech article from this site ready to print off and will be speaking to my local LR dealer tomorrow for a price on the cambelt kit 2. Compared to what I'm used to working on, being able to simply roll under the Landy to inspect the underside is a real treat Really looking forward to getting started.

[western]

you can use a 9.5mm drill bit plain shank to time the injection pump, just wrap the flutes [working section] in tape to save your fingers, & a flywheel timing tool can be made with a drill bit or plain pin & one wading plug.

[RichardAllen]

Funny you should mention the tool sales pitch as I read the Difflock article yesterday and thought just the same! I have the tech article from this site ready to print off and will be speaking to my local LR dealer tomorrow for a price on the cambelt kit 2. Compared to what I'm used to working on, being able to simply roll under the Landy to inspect the underside is a real treat Really looking forward to getting started.

There are loads of suppliers who get original equipment parts at lots less than the local stealership. I like Brit-car, which is easy to navugate if you have an electronic parts catralogue, also Rimmer Brothers. A lot of people use Paddocks, but I have had some duff stuff from them recently. As long as you go for original equipment OE, and not copies (Britpart rarely get good rpess on here) you should be OK and save £££'s.

A tip lookiong underneath: you may find under the front of your truck you have a engine undertray. It has a useful little hatch with 5 bolts which allows you to get a ratchet just behind the radiator/fan and onto the crankshaft bolt for turning the engine over. It took me a while to spot it as it was covered in oil/dirt etc.

Regards

Richard

[ldtopham]

I wouldn't normally go to the stealers but have only ever fitted OEM cambelt kits. I'll try the companies listed and see if I can pick up an OEM kit at discount over the main dealers. Are the wading plugs a standard size? Is there likely to be one fitted elsewhere on the vehicle that I can 'borrow' for the job. I'll just plug the drilled hole that I have to make when done if that's the case. I can make a puller for the crank pulley no problem.

[RichardAllen]

I wouldn't normally go to the stealers but have only ever fitted OEM cambelt kits. I'll try the companies listed and see if I can pick up an OEM kit at discount over the main dealers. Are the wading plugs a standard size? Is there likely to be one fitted elsewhere on the vehicle that I can 'borrow' for the job. I'll just plug the drilled hole that I have to make when done if that's the case. I can make a puller for the crank pulley no problem.

The two wading plugs should not normally be fitted, see Owner's Handbook under "Wading", and you should find them in your toolkit.

Regards

Richard

[ldtopham]

Unless they are fitted they are missing. My tool kit consists of the supplied high lift jack, wheel brace and wheel chock, that is all. I'll measure the pitch and thread diameter tonight in the bellhousing. Then I can centre drill a suitable bolt and fasten a suitably sized insert through it.

Interestingly the main dealers have just quoted £54+ the dreaded for cam belt kit 2 and £21+VAT for the crank front oil seal.

The aftermarket suppliers are asking £70 for the cam belt kit 2 (STC4096K) go figure? Maybe my initial reserve of the dealers was unfair!

[western]

for wading plugs, that subject of their part numbers can be found in the 'part number request' forum, very recently added in the last 10 days.