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just got a 3 inch lift kit with 2 inch plus shocks for my defender now i am told i will need extended brake hoses and correction arms or my drive shafts will go for a pass time is this true as i am a bit Mildly miffed off i was not told this buy the supplier although i did not ask either we probably wont be going to extrems but still dont want to be towed back from every pay and play day any help gratefully received

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Its true.

A 3 inch lift is quite a lot. If you do a search you'll find a lot of info about castor correction and the like.

Why did you want a 3" lift?

mmm not sure really was the same price so went for the biggest guess its a bloke thing

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Folk say you don't need the correction on a 2" lift - so why not return some it?

If you say you have +2" shocks, have you got -1" turrets and mounts? Perhaps you can swap your springs, for 2" lift ones and return the mounts and just use the shocks, and new springs, on the standard mounts.

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Ive got a 2" lift with castor corrected arms and they do make it drive/ behave better on the road. yes realisticly you wouuld be better off with extended brake lines, cranked trailing arms, etc they will maximise the working potential of your suspension. BUT all landrovers are different and peoples views are even more different. as for the props there a BIG yes, i killed a transfer box after lifting my truck and running it with the standard prop, then the transfer box was replaced and i fitted a wide yoke h/duty front prop and the new transfer box lasted only 200 miles! So another transfer box and now i run a double cardon jointed prop and it hasnt had a problem since. Good luck

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What's the measurement between your bump stops ?

Everyone talks of 2" and 3" lifts, but there is never any baseline to measure off. I don't think most are as much as some owners imagine.

If you have increased droop travel, of course your brake lines will need extending, although most supposed 2" 'lifts' just use a heavier rated spring which is no longer than stock and stock length dampers so all the lift is at the expense of droop (unless you use dislocation) You state you are using 2" longer stroke dampers, so brake lines need extending.

IMO, castor correction is best done at the swivel. Using bent arms to correct castor will shorten the life of the front uni. Bending the arms to correct bush/pin angularity, then re-bending to correct the driveline angle, then slotting the swivels for castor correction is fine IMO.

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if you use castor corrected arms you will kill the propshafts as they'll be running at a jaunty angle.

if you dont fit castor correction arms (or another method of castor correction) you will have too little castor, which will make the vehicle pretty nasty to drive, you'll lose most of the self centering of the steering and the truck will wander around the road at speed.

a 3" lift is pretty extreme, and extreme lifts need extreme solutions when it comes to the issues they bring.

Castor corrected arms, along with a double cardan front propshaft might see you ok.

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call me a fart but still none the wiser spoke to a few people at foxham and got a mixed response is anyone out there runnin a 3 inch lift kit on standard correction and shafts

All the info you need is in the above posts. All the info you need is in this forum or the archive if you do a search and some sifting.

Again, what is your bump stop clearance ? A 3" lift means diddly squat without a base line.

If your bump stop clearance is above 120mm in the front you will need castor correction. IMO it's desireable above 100mm, but not essential. Around 140mm roughly equals a true 3" lift. Prop shafts may need extending at this lift.

If it's roughly 105mm or greater in the front you will need longer brake hoses.

Back to you.

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