geoffbeaumont Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Trying to work out what I'm letting myself in for swopping the BW transfer box (which seems to have unseized, but I don't trust it to stay that way) for the LT230. Changing the actual box seems fairly straightforward (aside from the safety issue of handling a pretty hefty hunk of machinery with only basic tools...), but I presume I'll have to change the lever mechanism as well? How hard is that to get out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 The BW transfer was pretty hard to get out of a Rangie I broke recently. There didn't seem enough space to pull it backwards. The shell was scrap, so I broke out the cutting tools. Maybe tilting the engine/trans would have done it, I don't remember. Be warned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 The BW transfer was pretty hard to get out of a Rangie I broke recently.There didn't seem enough space to pull it backwards. The shell was scrap, so I broke out the cutting tools. Maybe tilting the engine/trans would have done it, I don't remember. Be warned The shell the LT230's coming out of is scrap, but my truck isn't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Drop the cross member out, release the GB mounts and lower down gently. Watch your exhaust or break it at the Y piece if that sounds a bit risky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 Drop the cross member out, release the GB mounts and lower down gently.Watch your exhaust or break it at the Y piece if that sounds a bit risky The exhaust on the old truck is pretty much a non-issue. On mine I've worked out there's a bit missing between the Y and front box! The old truck appears to have some kind of flexible (anti-vibration?) joint here - the local tyre place reckoned mine had an incorrect joint (two female sides when one should be male) and bodged it together without the middle bit (they stuck a joint of some kind in there, but it isn't the right one - has to be periodically resealed with exhaust putty Seems like a good excuse to get the missing bit and fix it properly. What do you use to raise and lower the transfer box? The workshop manual says to fabricate a special bracket and bolt it to a hydraulic platform, which is a bit beyond my means. I've seen people saying you can drop gearboxes with a trolley jack, but I doubt mine will go that high. Is it worth seeing if I can borrow or hire a gearbox lift? And if so, where from? Can't imagine it's the sort of thing the local HSS will have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 What do you use to raise and lower the transfer box? The workshop manual says to fabricate a special bracket and bolt it to a hydraulic platform, which is a bit beyond my means. I've seen people saying you can drop gearboxes with a trolley jack, but I doubt mine will go that high. Is it worth seeing if I can borrow or hire a gearbox lift? And if so, where from? Can't imagine it's the sort of thing the local HSS will have. You can do the transfer box with a trolley jack if you strap it securely with some small ratchet straps. It's probably possible to do the full transmission like that but I wouldn't like to attempt it, the problem is finding the balance point and that is tricky at the best of times, then you have to jiggle it about when disengaging it and that can knock the balance off or work the straps loose and it's not a good idea to be under the motor when that lot could come crashing down. The best way I have found is to remove the centre console and trim and use a single arm engine lift through the passenger door and floor apperture. Things to watch out for:- Try to lift & support the cahssis all round before you start, or just lift one side for removal after you have the box on the deck. Door damage obviously. Careful of your headlining but try to allow enough gap that it won't touch when you take the weight. Balance point it critical, with the 5 spd & 4 spd auto it is very close to the join between the main box & the transfer box,, I have done it so many times now and never remember to take pics. Use a rope loop or strap if you can, that way you can put a bight in the loop that will stop it twisting during the lift. If you can't do it in one lift due to the length of rope then just lower it onto some wood packing and take another go with a longer bit rather than bend your tunnel edges. Put an old piece of carpet on the ground before you put it down, makes it easier to push or drage the box out without any damage. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Probably posted these before but this is how I got around the height problem, and then it was 'only just' I used one strop at the front onto a crane through the tunnel and a jack on the t/b. That was taking the lot out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 I don't run to an engine crane either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Nor do I mate, I had to borrow one from a mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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