Help again please

[nickt]

ever since I rebuilt my TD engine it bellows white smoke on starting and during gearchange for the first 5 minutes or so and only comes back if it has been left idling how do I go about finding and solving this problem

[Ex Member]

Check your timing. It is probably retarded.

[western]

I agree with ^^^^

[nickt]

which part is likely to be retarded the fuel pump or the cam I did check my timing a few times when rebuilt and was sure I had it right but im no expert it seems to run and drive well wouldnt the timing affect this

[Les Henson]

If the cam/crank timing is out (advanced) one tooth, then it'll rattle like an old sewing machine. 2-teeth advanced and you will bend pushrods. On the Injector pump sprocket - 1-tooth retarded and it'll be almost impossible to start on the key from cold, but once running, will blow white/grey smoke from the exhaust until the engine heats up, when it'll appear to be gone. 2-teeth retarded and you have no chance of it starting on the key, and on a tow it'll start, but will belch white/grey smoke all the time and won't accellerate at all. I would look to rotating the injector pump by slackening the 3x13mm nuts, and the lower injector pipes (where they connect to the injector pump), then turning the pump 1mm at a time. There are degrees of Injector pump timing - slightly retarded and you will get white/grey smoke on start-up, which will fade away as the engine warms up (engine appears normal otherwise). Heavy white/grey smoke on start-up and pretty continuous/intermittent throught revs/engine temperature, which gives delayed accelleration/poor top end.

Do you know the history of the timing belt? A slack belt can be compensated for by adjusting the pump as described, but you really need to start from the beginning (slack in the timing belt perhaps), then set the timing. Process of elimination I'm afraid, but will give the best results in the end.

Les

[nickt]

when i bought the landy it didnt run very well at all would not pull past 45 so I replaced the injectors and we did play with the fuel pump rotation to see if that was the original fault in the end I replaced the timing belt because the crank pulley keyway had failed so the pump is possibly not in tis original position but we did mark it and put it back near as damn it however it does take a few attempts to start when cold I thought this was possibly due to glow plugs as I have never changed them.

I believe I mite have put my fuel pump timing half a tooth back to line up on the belt working on the principal slightly retarded was better than slightly advanced.

I have also replaced the boost diaphragm which was split

[Les Henson]

This thread is replacing the timing belt on a 2.5 N/A (TD is the same). Can you relate to it/did you do the same thing? Once the timing is set, finer adjustment is by turning the injector pump itself.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7880

Les.