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200 tdi bent con-rod?


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Hi all

Just about to replace the head gasket on my 200tdi defender (original def engine) but noticed No.4 piston isn't protruding from the block when the engine is rotated. I know for a fact it used to protrude by 0.61mm as I measured them and wrote the figures down in the manual when I first did a head gasket.

The other pistons seem ok so I can only assume the no.4 conrod has bent, probably due to the head gasket failure.

As I've never actually been inside the engine before can anybody tell me how easy it would be to check the conrod? (Can you see by just removing the sump?) Also can the conrod be changed with the engine still in the vehicle? I have a spare 200tdi engine from a disco in the garage and thought I could maybe borrow a conrod from that as I ideally need to use the vehicle on Saturday. I presume that running the engine with a bent conrod will cause further damage.

mark

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If it is not travelling up as far as the others, it is bent.

The fun part....is that bent con rods cannot be removed from the engine....they need to be cut in half. You are best to remove the engine and work on it. It only takes a couple of hours to pull the engine. You might as well do the bearings, rings and hone the bores while you are at it. Really a full overhaul might as well happen.

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Depending on how bent the rod is - it'll come out ok if it's only slight. Otherwise - cut it or strip the engine.

Les.

The piston is only down about 1mm from the others so it probably isn't to bad, am wondering whether to risk running just for next week? I assume I just need to undo the 2 main bearing bolts and push the conrod and piston up.

Is it a good idea to use a conrod from another engine just as a temporary fix and should I use the bearings from that engine as well?

Mark

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I'm guessing 1 mm of height loss is NOT a small bend.

I'm not sure if you can get at the bearings with the engine in place as the ladder frame needs to come off which (I think) has bolts in from the clutch cover which need the engine off to access.

It should not hurt anything to use the engine to run it. The cylinder will just be down on compression.

There is no sense in not fitting new bearings.

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I'm guessing 1 mm of height loss is NOT a small bend.

I'm not sure if you can get at the bearings with the engine in place as the ladder frame needs to come off which (I think) has bolts in from the clutch cover which need the engine off to access.

It should not hurt anything to use the engine to run it. The cylinder will just be down on compression.

There is no sense in not fitting new bearings.

Yeah,

Thinking about it to lose 1mm in length would require quite a bend. I reckon it might have happened when the head gasket went about 6 months before and thats why I,'ve had problems since. I must admit to not checking it properly last time,I just fitted a new gasket in a bit of a rush to get it running.

Some say you can get the ladder frame off with engine in situ but I'm not so sure.

Mark

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The picture I posted above is right out of the genuine workshop manual for the 200TDI.

Seriously, pulling the engine makes life easier. It is not a big job. We did one the other day and the out/in part of the job was 4 hours. 2 people, some hand tools and a crane. These must be the easiest vehicles on the planet to work on....

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The picture I posted above is right out of the genuine workshop manual for the 200TDI.

Seriously, pulling the engine makes life easier. It is not a big job. We did one the other day and the out/in part of the job was 4 hours. 2 people, some hand tools and a crane. These must be the easiest vehicles on the planet to work on....

Thanks for your help,

I've just replaced the head and will see how she runs tomorrow. I'm due to be doing a rebuild anyway (new chassis, side frames, rebuilt axles etc)so I'm taking the 110 off the road in few weeks time. I'll sort the engine out properly then, maybe get it reconditioned as I want it to be reliable. I'm sure there will be plenty more questions to come in the next few months.

Cheers Mark

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The piston is only down about 1mm from the others so it probably isn't to bad, am wondering whether to risk running just for next week? I assume I just need to undo the 2 main bearing bolts and push the conrod and piston up.

Is it a good idea to use a conrod from another engine just as a temporary fix and should I use the bearings from that engine as well?

Mark

when you do it put the bearings from the bent conrod as thay are worn to the right crank

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  • 2 weeks later...

when you do it put the bearings from the bent conrod as thay are worn to the right crank

Yes that seems to make sense. Thanks

Engine has just completed a 1000 mile trip and ran fine with bent con-rod although I did notice fuel consumption down to 26 when it used to do over 30. Noticed a slight lack of power as well, especially on long hills.

Mark

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Yes that seems to make sense. Thanks

Engine has just completed a 1000 mile trip and ran fine with bent con-rod although I did notice fuel consumption down to 26 when it used to do over 30. Noticed a slight lack of power as well, especially on long hills.

Mark

the otherthing to think about is what made the conrod bend,

water,(may have been head gasget)

leaking injetor. (could do it again)

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yes but he didn't say weather it was water in oil or if it had gone on that piston even

so was just saying worth checking

Yes head gasket had blown from waterway and to cylinder and one of the pushrods had also bent slightly. Just had injectors tested and all ok.

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so new push rod and conrod and she'll be back to max strength

Not sure if to get engine reconditioned whilst its out. Its done 160,000 miles and uses about a litre of oil every 1000 miles although it only smokes significantly (blue smoke) for a couple of minutes after cold starting, not when warm (valve seals?).

Only other smoke is black under hard acceleration?

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