Les Henson Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Well the P38 pretty-much started on the button (a while ago now), very smoky for a while due to the rancid fuel remaining in the system. A small exhaust blow was all and the engine ran nice and smoothly. After 30-minutes or so on tickover, temperature was just below normal, no leaks, smoke had reduced, and I decided to take it for a test drive. All lights/horn/suspension work ok. Leccy windows, sunroof, central locking (locking only), and fuel cap release, are having none of it. After about an hour, the engine is beginning to overheat and gets close to red, so I stop to check out the engine bay. Lots of heat, hoses are rock hard, air gap in the header tank has vanished, so I swithch off and wait for it to cool down, then take it back home. I removed the header tank top and started the engine - small continual stream of bubbles looks bad and a leak test confirms cylinder gases are present in the coolant. I resign myself to taking the heads off again. One last attempt at a cure by using 'Seal-up' (made by CarGo), has no effect, so I took the heads back off. The local equivalent of Turner Engineering is Zebedee Engineering in Calne, so I go there. The guy tells me that it's highly unlikely that the heads have a crack, and that they are aware of suspected porosity / liner drop on this type of engine. They look at the the re-faced heads, and say that the finish is so poor it's possible that the compression gases are leaking through the new (composite) head gaskets into the water jacket. I get heads skimmed a lot, and I'm not sure, but you can't argue with a qualified engineer. He recommends the heads are skimmed 'properly', so I agree and leave them with him. Last Saturday morning I pick the heads up and part with £120. The mating faces are obviously better - shiny and almost mirror smooth. So today (between avoiding the God Botherers), I set about putting it back together for the second time. Once again I meticulously cleaned the bores and piston crowns - looking very carefully for any sign of cracks, poor gasket surfaces, distortion, etc etc. I spent at least 3-hours just checking the block faces and bores, not really seeing anything suspicious. No option but to put it all back together and see what happens. Pics so far:- The heads after picking them up. The mating face is very smooth and shiney, hope it makes a difference. No carbon/oil/water/dirt here! Cleaning 8-bores and pistons takes a while. Bit blurred, but new stem seals and re-grind - might as well as it's all in bits. N/S head fitted, torqued down, and rocker assembly in place (hydraulic tappets, so no fiddling with feeler guages/fag paper cardboard. The N/S all done - exhaust manifold, PAS and Air Com pumps all in place and connected. O/S head in place - the exhaust manifold is a right swine to attach on this side partly due to the steering gear, but also the engine is closer to the chassis rail. Finally (for now), I was sold a different type of block sealant that's supposed to be almost guaranteed to permanently repair porous or cracked blocks and associated components. Recommended and supplied by the same people that did the heads:- Instructions are shake it until ceramic particles are properly mixed with the liquid medium, flush engine and fill with clean water, run until warm, add this stuff and drive around for 2-3 days. If the engine temperature rises too high, then stop and allow it to cool down before continuing. After the above time period, drain system right down and leave overnight to dry out internally. That's about it - fill with coolant and drive as normal and the jobs a good-un. So we'll see. Tomorrow will see the engine once more assembled and in running order - minus the exhaust blow. A snapped downpipe stud is fixed while it was apart. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROGUE TROOPER Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Tubular headers, ya flash git! Is this your P38? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Fingers (and everything else) crossed then Les. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 Is this your P38? Not a chance. Don't you think I have enough non-working L/R's already? MOG - maybe I should have been nicer to the Jehova's witnesess, they could have put a word in for me. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Not a chance. Don't you think I have enough non-working L/R's already?MOG - maybe I should have been nicer to the Jehova's witnesess, they could have put a word in for me. Les. I doubt if they have a more effective hotline to the main man than anyone else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newboy Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 hi Les hope the God squad finally helped get the dam thing going. No luck getting you on the phone can u give me a call in Eastbourne. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Half Orange Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Did it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 Les, As you skimmed a load off the heads, did you check that the hydraulic tappets are still within their working range? I found when mine were skimmed, the tappets were going to bottom out therefore had to fit the shims (as sold by RPi). Its an RPi recommendation, described on their website but basically, turn the engine until the tappet has no load and check under the retaining spring on the top of the tappet. There should be 0.020" to 0.060" clearance. If there isn't you need to put shims under the rocker posts until within spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.