Drowned TD5, He's ALIVE!!!

[tonycan]

Hi! I just wanted to report that I received by post the used ECUs I got on eBay for my drowned TD5 and installed them this afternoon. The engine still wouldn't turn but I could hear the starter solenoid activating. Power windows wouldn't work, central locking wouldn't activate but I could hear something switching in the 10AS. On a hunch I had my staff pushstart the vehicle and on the second try he sputtered and the beautiful sound of my TD5's engine running reached my ears.

What a great feeling!

Airconditioner works just fine, no power windows, no central lock but all the lights work. He spat out muddy water from the tailpipe for a few seconds but other than that the engine is running smoothly. 10 hours underwater and now my TD5 is running. Thank you for all the info offered during my time of distress.

Now for the Puma, unfortunately the ECUs won't get in until December.

[Happyoldgit]

That's good news. Have you changed all the lubricants & filters? (I can't remember what you've done now).

[tonycan]

Hi, yes immediately after the flood I drained the engine oil and replaced oil and filter. Also replaced diff oil, fuel filter and air filter. Removed intercooler and turbo and drained water out.

[tychoS]

Hi, yes immediately after the flood I drained the engine oil and replaced oil and filter. Also replaced diff oil, fuel filter and air filter. Removed intercooler and turbo and drained water out.

Don't forget the gearboxes, the propshafts, the sviwel houses and the wheel bearings.

The brake fluid, clutch fluid & servo fluid is also worth changing after such a long sumbersion.

[tonycan]

As soon as I get the starter fixed I'll bring him straight to the shop for all the fluid changes. But that's right, I do have to have the wheel hubs repacked. Thanks for the suggestion.

[tonycan]

Inspected starter today but at first it wouldn't function. When we tested the armature it turned, when we tested the solenoid it pushed out but the starter wouldn't push out and turn at the same time. I noticed that the rod with the copper washer that makes contact when pushed out was sticking and not moving out smoothly. The flood waters and the 40 day inactivity made the parts rust and stick. I cleaned it with DW-40 and activated the rod with my hand until it was moving smoothly. Re-installed the starter and switched the ignition key and the engine fired-up.

Initial findings are: power windows don't work, central locks don't work and front windshield wipers don't work. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if any of these 3 functions are connected to the ECU?

Also, I think my newly installed ECU is programmed without activating the alarm. (I think this might be a good thing) When I press the lock button on the remote and then try to start the engine the engine starts.

I also replaced the ATF in the power steering system. The clutch and brake systems seemed untouched by the flood waters.

[Andrew Chua]

damn it. i just typed a super long reply on how to overhaul the power window motor and it's gone.

power windows - no they are not connected to ECU

CDL - yes they are triggered by the 10AS if yours supports it

wipers - no they are not

check the TD5 wiring diagrams if you're not sure.

all these are parts that will size up when dunked in water.

[Andrew Chua]

power window motor overhaul - condensed version. I've done it myself before.

1. remove door card

2. remove plug to the motor (check for +12v and -12v depending on which way the switch is pressed. if no voltage, check the fuse box in the passenger compartment - 20amp x2 (left bottom row if yours is factory fitted)

3. voltage present = motor siezed

4. now the workshop manual says lower the window and loosen the 2 nuts holding the glass from the assembly. (damn it's bloody jammed up how to lower the window!!!??)

5. yes, you have a problem. now curse and swear loudly at the design and you wonder if you should fit manual windows. they have a different window regulator assembly, mind you.

6. look at the middle of the inner skin, you see a cluster of 4 nuts on you right (PS door) and 2 nuts on the left. these hold the regulator assembly in place.

7. remove them, you need someone to hold the glass for you.

8. rest the entire assembly inside the door

9. remove the 2 nuts holding the glass, yes finally. raise the glass back up and wedge it in place.

10. remove the nuts holding the inner skin of the door.

10a. you also need to remove the CDL pump (lower left on PS door) we will deal with it later. it's 2 self tapping screws.

11. now remove the regulator assembly.

Refitting is as what the Haynes manual states, just reverse the procedure. if you are a LR dealer, proceed to throw away the entire assemble and replace with a new one. if you are not, read the part 2.

power window motor overhaul - part 2

1. now look carefully at the way it's position, you will need to know when re-fitting.

2. remove the 4 allen screws which will seperate the black plastic part from the motor itself

3. withdraw the motor from the black plastic housing (there are gears inside and hence you should get yourself the motor with a worm gear on the shaft)

4. proceed to dismantle the motor, just pull it apart.

5. there are 2 bearings, on on top on at the bottom of the housing. the bottom one seems to be something you can't remove. derust everything. including the motor windings and re-grease them.

6. assemble them back together. test by turning the shaft with you fingers, if it turns you're good to test it with 12v. it can be real pain to put the small parts back together especially if you've never taken a part a motor or a stepping motor.

7. apply +12v and -12v to check if the motor rotates. the motor takes abt 5amps unloaded.

8. if so you have got it right, if not proceed to step 4 again.

9. now's the tuff bit to insert the shaft with the worm gear back into the black plastic part (gear box)

10. when successful, try again with 12v to make sure the regulator assemble works.

11. regrease all the moving parts in the regulator assemble

12. apply 12v to put the assemble into lowered position (hence you needed to know how and down position looked like)

13. refit it onto the inner door skin with the 4 bolts and 2 nuts.

CDL (central door locking)

1. disconnect the plug from the cdl pump, after removing the door card

2. apply 12v to the pump, does it move

3a. yes : the problem is at the 10AS not triggering

3b. no : the pump is faulty, nothing much you can do but replace it. you do not need a land rover CDL pump any 3rd part one will work with a lil bit of repositing and drilling.

wiper motor

i've not dismantled it before.

there's a post on how to replace it but you need to practically remove the entire dash board.

[tonycan]

Hi Andrew, thanks a lot for the comprehensive instructions. I will need to wait for the weekend to work on the power windows so I can devote a lot of time to it. Have never worked on a power window before so I will follow your instructions and do it slowly. If I do need parts then I will need to get from Richard of Nam Seng. Just having my TD5 up and running again bring tears of joy to my eyes

At least my Puma does not have power windows or central locking. Just hope that ECUs will come soon enough.

Will update you on my progress.

Thanks.

[tonycan]

Hi, I removed my power window motor assembly as per your instructions. Tested the line from the switch and power is supplied. Brought motor to repair shop for testing and repair. Also removed CDL pump and the line also has power. Will look for alternative pumps to replace the broken ones. I was also able to remove wiper motor and brought to the shop. Wiper motor worked in the shop so I'm hoping it had just gotten stuck-up. Will re-install tom.