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Does the TD5 fuel pump have a relay?


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Hi, I installed a re-mapped ECU to my TD5 and my engine started. The thing is, every now and then, the engine will just suddenly die. I have not really taken it around driving because I'm still sorting out power windows, locks and wiper but I do start the engine and its happened twice that the engine will just die. I'm worried about this problem because I can imagine overtaking and then suddenly having the engine die on me. I hope its not the ECU and I was thinking that I should check the fuel pump relay (flooded defender) if indeed the TD5 has one. Thanks.

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Under the bonnet, yellow relay No1. Swap it for one of the others and see if cures the problem. I believe they are all the same (same part number for all of them anyway) Exchane it with No5 (compressor relay).

If you want to or are able to check it, then the white wire in the plug to the fuel pump sender under the rear floor panel, should be live with the ignition on.

If the relay proves to be at fault, then the part number for it is YWB10027L

Les.

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Yes it does, it's under the RH seatbox next to the engine ECU, but I doubt this is the cause of it cutting out.

I had a similar problem with mine last year and I found that I could remove the fuel pump relay (or fuse)while the engine was running and it made very little difference. It appears that once the fuel system is primed and running, there is sufficient suction from the unit injectors to maintain the flow of fuel.

My problem turned out to be due to the ECU.

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Thank you Les and than you crwoody. Td5 is TD5 :)

I'm sorry to hear that its most likely the ECU. I will drive it around once I have the wipers fixed. I'll have to be on my toes I guess while checking out the engine cut-off problem. But in the meantime I guess I'll have to foot the bill for a brand ECU.

crwoody, was your problem the same? Everything is running fine and then all of a sudden the engine just dies and then when you turn the key it will start again?

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Actually no, not quite the same, mine would run and drive normally for maybe a few minutes or even half an hour, then it would cut out just as if the ignition was switched off, occasionally it would re-start after cycling the ignition but mostly it would not start for some time.

The odd thing with my one was that when it was in its "non starting mode" you could hear one of the relays under the seat chattering and buzzing just with the ignition switched on, if after a while I switched the ignition on and couldn't hear the buzzing, then it would start normally.

Do you have access to any diagnostics devices, Nanocom or similar? I'm wondering if there are any fault codes logged which may help to diagnose it. Still may not be the ECU - there's always hope.

Edit; While trying to diagnose mine, I took the lid off and plugged it back in and found that I could gently tap on some of the internal parts with a small screwdriver handle and get the fault to come and go, from this, I deduced that there were some (or at least one) "dry joints" (bad solder joints) on the board, I couldn't see any and went round it with spray flux and solder iron but never found it.

A replacement ECU completely solved the problem.

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Thanks, sounds kind of the same. The first time it happened after replacing my drowned ECU with the second hand re-mapped ECU I got from eBay I was parked with the engine running and then the engine just died. I tried to turn the key to start but the engine would just turn but not fire. The engine light wouldn't light up at all. I tried to start for a couple of minutes then I stopped. The next day I tried to start the engine and it fired up and I kept it running for 30 minutes. Yesterday I started the engine. after about 5 minutes the engine died, I tried to restart and it started. I'm wishful thinking that when I get everything sorted out and start driving it around the problem will disappear. :rolleyes:

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