T1G UP Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 bought a cheap disco 200 tdi AUTO to use as a dog van/tip wagen whilst we continue to clear out. have a starting problem. from cold she fires straight away but only on 2-3 cylinders and with a little throttle will run. big clouds of white/grey smoke,unburnt diesel?, and will drive fine with the smoke clearing. once warm ticks over, if a little lumpy,temps are fine, restarts from warm fine. I'm gonna change the fuel filter in a bit. do i have a blocked/faulty injector/s ??? how much are they and how easy to change? anything else i should look out for,valve clearences need doing but sound apart from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Could be injectors, but I'd look at injection timing first. Sounds like it may be too retarded. Injectors aren't cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 why would the timing go out on 1 poss 2 cylinders? shes gonna get fresh derv and a bucket load of injector cleaner straight though this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 ok had a bottle of cleaner, fresh go go juice and a service....oil/filter/air filter. had the injectors out and tested @ tom days in Keynsham. 180 bar intead of 200 but spray patterns ok and not leaks. all back together. better....but not right? any online guides on injection timing? tom day guys sugested lift pump? on boost she drives fine. when ticking over if you boot it it almost misfires before getting on to boost with a cloud of white smoke then it's ok again. you assistance is required and apreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Again, I'd look at timing. There should be something in the tech archive - have a look at the thread on changing the cam belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 thanks james,timing belt kit on order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Looks like i've found the timing issue Keyways had it the arks line up but the crank pulleys out a bit Whats left of the Key! been broke for while i'd say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Ah, that's why you wanted the part numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 You can either buy a new crank, or repair it. You'll notice that the woodruff keyway is only worn in one direction, so you can use the good side as a reference. Buy a new woodruff key and glue it in place - hard against the good face of the slot with Araldite or smilar. Once the glue is dry, fill the gap with the same stuff and again allow it to set. Dress it down with 80-grit wet/dry, so that the (new) timing belt pully will slide on. Reassemble as normal and the engine will be fine. I've done this to my own engine and it lasted fine for over 2-years until I removed it for unrelated reasons. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 You can either buy a new crank, or repair it. You'll notice that the woodruff keyway is only worn in one direction, so you can use the good side as a reference. Buy a new woodruff key and glue it in place - hard against the good face of the slot with Araldite or smilar. Once the glue is dry, fill the gap with the same stuff and again allow it to set. Dress it down with 80-grit wet/dry, so that the (new) timing belt pully will slide on. Reassemble as normal and the engine will be fine. I've done this to my own engine and it lasted fine for over 2-years until I removed it for unrelated reasons. Les. thanks Les, did do a search about it as it ain't worth a new crank! araldite works for me.Shame cause at 180k t's in quite good shape! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 That sort of damage is usually caused by the crank bolt coming loose. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 GOOD news! bought all the parts from lrseries came to £130 delivered inc cambelt kit, new damper pulley, cam belt crank pulley, woodruff keys etc there was a bit of the old key stuck in the crank which came out with a drift. glued the new key in as instructed,thanks Les. all new parts on and she fire first turn! no smoke, no squeaky rattle (was the damper flopping about) All in all a good result and well worth trying if your having similar probs to this. MOT on monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Nice one - well done Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 MOT'd! clean as a whistle.....emmisions were 1.3....allowed 3! plenty of welding to be done on sills but hay! it's a disco so all in cost so far of £650. i'm happy with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boiler man Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 I LOVE A HAPPY ENDING!! -sniff!- (gonna sneak out and take a peek at my woodruff key tomoz!! simular symptoms) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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