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Reviving 200 tdi - It lives!


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Finally got the old disco block fitted into my defender. Turned out to be a big job swapping parts over and had to re-hone one cylinder which had gone a bit rusty. Anyway just taken it for a short test drive and it pulls really well and no smoke! Did a compression test when I got back and all cylinders around 430/440 psi which seems fine. So thanks for help and advice. Might have saved a fortune on a reconditioned engine.

A few things to sort such as leaking front crank oil seal which I'm on with now.

But biggest problem is that I can't now engage reverse without crunching gears and first also seems a bit stiff. Was fine before I took the engine out but I did had difficulty getting the engine and gearbox to mate up and am now worried I might have damaged the clutch. I did strengthen the clutch fork by welding a bit of 3mm steel around the back of the pivot point.

Any ideas before I seperate the engine and gearbox to have a look.

Thanks again for your help

Mark

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I'm guessing the welding has distorted the fork?

If it was OK before and thats all you changed then.....

Maybe, although it didn't appear to be distorted. I also dislodged the pushrod on the slave cylinder which may have somehting to do with it?

Any idea why its only reverse gear thats crunching?

Mark

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You say you had difficulty mating up the engine and g/box. Could be you have burred

the spigot bearing or clutch plate spline, so that either the tight bearing is rotating

the first motion shaft even with the clutch depressed, or the plate is dragging.

No synchro on reverse gear, hence grinding. Would be worth making sure the clutch

hydraulics are ok before pulling the engine again though.

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You say you had difficulty mating up the engine and g/box. Could be you have burred

the spigot bearing or clutch plate spline, so that either the tight bearing is rotating

the first motion shaft even with the clutch depressed, or the plate is dragging.

No synchro on reverse gear, hence grinding. Would be worth making sure the clutch

hydraulics are ok before pulling the engine again though.

Yep that sounds possible, I couldn't get engine and gearbox to mate so I turned crank slightly and both parts slammed together. It wouldn't surprise me if I damaged something just hope its not the gearbox shaft. At least it was the old clutch I put back in.

Looks like gearbox out then I reckon is slightly less work that removing the engine.

Mark

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I would give the clutch a chance to bed in. Crunchy gears is common after refitting a gearbox/replacing the clutch and usually sorts itself out after a short while.

Les.

Yes I've only done about 25 miles so I'll leave it a bit longer before I investigate further. Thanks for your help regarding the cylinder honing Les I'm really pleased with the engine so far, a definate improvement.

Cheers Mark

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friend of mine hadnt used his 110 for about 6 months due to work commitments and when he finally got around to re-MOTing it, he said the clutch was juddery and inconsistent, crunching etc.

told him to engage first and ride the clutch until he could start to smell it getting a bit 'warm' ( :ph34r: ) and then try driving it again. Worked a treat. cleaned up all the surfaces and freed everything up nicely,

suppose the same could be accomplished by just persevering and driving it a fair bit, but this was a quick and dirty fix.

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